Tips for loosening Catalytic Convertor brackets on LT-1
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Tips for loosening Catalytic Convertor brackets on LT-1
I'm attempting to loosen the brackets that hold the stock convertors in place on a 94 LT1. I don't want to cut them, but need them loose to align the factory convertor flange to the bottom of the Hooker Shortie header. There is a small gap and to close the gap I need to move the convertor up to meet the header flange.
I have tried just about every configuration of wrench and socket in my box, but for the life of me can't figure how to loosen them buggers with the transmission installed. Any tips or horror stories welcome.
I have tried just about every configuration of wrench and socket in my box, but for the life of me can't figure how to loosen them buggers with the transmission installed. Any tips or horror stories welcome.
#2
They are a son of a gun, no question about it. I'll assume you have the appropriate swivel sockets? They help a little if you don't.
Can't say I've ever found an easy way to get them but wonder if loosening the support beam bolts will let the trans drop enough to help, just an idea. Good luck.
Can't say I've ever found an easy way to get them but wonder if loosening the support beam bolts will let the trans drop enough to help, just an idea. Good luck.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Heat aint gonna help if you can't get a wrench on them after thier hot!
Besides that, with all the stuff in place, and as tight as it is, heat is not a real option without causing a fire where I don't want to.
The car is not on a lift, its on four jack stands only about 18" at the most clearance. Its just a bitch. I'm looking for a silver bullet.
Besides that, with all the stuff in place, and as tight as it is, heat is not a real option without causing a fire where I don't want to.
The car is not on a lift, its on four jack stands only about 18" at the most clearance. Its just a bitch. I'm looking for a silver bullet.
#5
Safety Car
I took the long converter bolts out of the bracket by jamming 2 nuts on them - that gave me a little more room to get up there and get that top bolt out. I used a long box-end wrench and tried to think happy thoughts while I gave it zillions of small turns. Once the bracket was out, I was able to use a ratcheting box-end wrench to reinstall the bolt.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I took the long converter bolts out of the bracket by jamming 2 nuts on them - that gave me a little more room to get up there and get that top bolt out. I used a long box-end wrench and tried to think happy thoughts while I gave it zillions of small turns. Once the bracket was out, I was able to use a ratcheting box-end wrench to reinstall the bolt.
#7
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Pianoguy's advice will work. I hyper-extended my forearm muscle with that SOB. If you lay face down, you may find it easier to manipulate with tact only. They do come out.
YOU NEED THIS
YOU NEED THIS
Last edited by PLRX; 06-18-2008 at 10:16 PM.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yep, that's the culprit. I wonder how loose I need it to get it to move the convertor around a bit.
I was told that I had to loosen the entire exhaust from front to rear and then tighten the convertor to the shortie header flange first. Then tighten the rest of the bolts from the front back. I just wonder how much play I will get by loosening these bolts?
I was told that I had to loosen the entire exhaust from front to rear and then tighten the convertor to the shortie header flange first. Then tighten the rest of the bolts from the front back. I just wonder how much play I will get by loosening these bolts?
#9
Safety Car
I had taken my exhaust and the cats off to put in long tubes, but I have to believe that if you can just loosen up those cat bolts, you'll get enough wiggle room without having to mess with the bracket.
#10
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Man, I'm at work tired and I just realized your pain. I had the same issue with the headers. I got bad news for you. Loosing the cat will not straight/fix your problem. One of the headers, like yours, was "not perfect" and that shifted the entire exhaust system. The resonator was touching the seat belt bolt creating massive resonance (it was kinda awsome). I tried all, I removed both converters and the entire exhaust system and I ended up driving it to the muffler shop. There he heated up and using the "come along" he moved the system 1/4" to the right.
Last edited by PLRX; 06-18-2008 at 11:21 PM.
#11
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#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I got bad news for you. Loosing the cat will not straight/fix your problem. One of the headers, like yours, was "not perfect" and that shifted the entire exhaust system. The resonator was touching the seat belt bolt creating massive resonance (it was kinda awsome). I tried all, I removed both converters and the entire exhaust system and I ended up driving it to the muffler shop. There he heated up and using the "come along" he moved the system 1/4" to the right.
You photos look just like mine!! How about that? So, you took the whole thing to a muffler shop? I have thought about that, but mine is not ready to fire up yet and I don't think it would be good to run it with the short tube header open, and no O2 sensors or CATS installed.
I could have it towed over on a flatbead though.
#13
Safety Car
No, mileage seems about the same (18-19 average). I was hoping for an improvement, but my right foot probably has more to do with that than anything - LOL! I have a couple of long trips coming up in July, so I'll see how good I can do under those conditions.
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Can you elaborate? I have swivels, ratcheting wrenches, open and closed, lots of blocks of wood, but I'm not using them in conjunction that makes it unlock the puzzle. I'm usually pretty good at these things too.
I'm gonna give it my best on Saturday morning and see what happens.
The block of wood?
I'm gonna give it my best on Saturday morning and see what happens.
The block of wood?