scorp508

I know this is one of those things that should be put in the FAQ, but here we go again.

I believe that my right rear wheel hub/bearing is shot. I still have to test it for play. There used to be about 1/8" of play in it, is this acceptable normal level for a C4? Or should it be TIGHT?

I know there was some discussion about these things being from the same companies, but different boxes and finishes. Something like that.

Anyways, what do I have to shell out if this thing is bad? :confused:

Thanks.

Aggravated4life

Hey dude,
I spent 99 bucks a piece for my rears at Prep boyz..and they have worked flawlessly.
These are the CR name brand(chicago rawhide or something)
Autozone sells them too,under a name..dammit I forgot,someone here will know.I got the autozone brand wheel bearings for my 91 lumina FWD beater and works great.I think HRocks on here said they were all the same pretty much.I dont know if one brand is superior over the other.

Bearings should be tight,but even with brand new ones,it can still have some false play if the suspension moves a tiny bit when checking the wheel movement.Mine did that making me scratch my head if that play was the bearing or the other peices.
High mileage,replace em anyways.
:)

Eric Fraser

Ditto (CR brand for $99.00 @ Pep Boys) but mine both had a slight play in them. Caused me to fail MD state safety inspection. I'm still driving on them. No other symptoms.

Barrier

Hey Scorp,
Contemp Corvette 18003678388 Ron-- $159. each. These are supposed to be GM original without the box. Same EXACT one.
Barrier :)

bogus

advanced auto sells there rear bearings, and I assume fronts, too, as Federal Mogul...

kbklt1

I hate to be a rock, but I guess I have to learn some time.
Can you buy just the rear bearings, or do you have to get the whole hub assembly?

The guy that does my major work said he thinks you have to get the whole thing for about 300 his cost.

Thanks guys

92 coupe

scorp508

Unfortunately you cannot just repack the bearings on these things, they are sold as a whole unit. To buy directly from GM yes you are talking about $300 each. This is why I made the post, I knew cheaper yet reliable alternatives were out there somewhere. :)

Mr Mojo

I got from GM, $175 a piece thru my buddy's jobber price. It was an emergency situation, so I had to do it then and there.

Otherwise, I would've called Ron at Contemporary. If you call Ron, tell him you know me. 1-800-367-8388

He wouldn't steer me wrong, he likes repeat business.

kbklt1

Thanks scorp, you too Mr.M...
I guess it's time to save up a little and get this fixed, darn, just when you think you can spend some $$$ on mods the thing shows you who the real boss is :D

Eric Fraser

Local dealer was asking $410 each!

No Go

scorp508: You ought to know this-very popular subject.:)

Pep Boys carries the bearings made by CR (Chicago Rawhide)-same as AC Delco but reboxed.

Price used to be 99 bucks but now has since been bumped to 139.99. I just swapped my 1 year old Pep Boys rear bearings for new ones for free due to lifetime warranty. Not all Pep Boys will honor this so check around-took me four stores to find one that would swap the bearings!

One of mine were definitely bad the other not sure, but changed both of them anyway for another year of racing...er...street driving (warranty is not good for race vehicles you know...:))

Part number for rear is BR 930024.

Front on early C4's is BR 930023 for same price.

I don't have any Pep Boys nearby, but it is good enough deal to travel to Chicago and San Diego to make it worth while.

By the way, M2001 had similar handling problem as you did and found he had a bad bearing as well-this happened during entire OLOA event-kind of a bummer.

4GTWRK

Word of warning!!

If you go with aftermarket, compare the thickness of the flange area down around the shaft. I bought a set of Timkens 2 years ago from Autozone and it wasn't to cool when the right rear broke going around a banked oval. Timken replaced them no charge and they say they are mailing me a labor check, but I'll beleive that when i see it. The replacement units were twice as thick in the area that broke. They were even thicker than the original GM's that are on the car now.

Just be sure to look!! :eek:

Dave Cooper
R-D Racing Enterprises
www-r-dracing.com

jcazin

84c4-

what brand were the replacement bearing that you finally wound up with?
Thanks

Wadoka

I can't see buying any part for my car that doesn't come in a blue and white box that says "AC Delco". Not worth it to me to take the risk with white-box generic parts. Better the Lion that you know, than the Bear that you don't...:D

No Go

With this philosophy, I would not be able to afford to drive a Corvette.

Everything is a calculated risk...:)

4GTWRK

I stuck the originals back in to finish out the season. The new timkens do look really good. The flange area is now thicker than OEM and they have timken USA bearings in them. I am pretty sure that I am going to try them and just keep a close eye on them. The set that broke made a creaking sound when torqueing the wheels just before they broke. I thought I had a u-joint going out. Then a couple of hours later, what a ride! :eek:

Dave

No Go

Where did the bearing actually fail? The bearing itself or the hub portion where the three torx bolts thread into?

4GTWRK

The flange that the wheel bolts to. It broke around where the flange meets the shaft. the larger part of the shaft on the outside kept the wheel from coming off. I made it back to the pits, but then couldn't get in in the trailer. The shaft just spun inside the flange.

Dave