Bad ignition module symptoms
#21
...again, in EVERY CASE that my car wouldn't start, when i changed out the ignition module the car would start and run fine...i have no loose connections, no bad or dirty connections, and the only thing i changed out that was NEVER changed out and was in place and common to all installations of all my ignition modules was the capacitor assembly, which i changed out a few weeks ago....
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 09-25-2008 at 08:00 AM. Reason: spelling error
#22
Racer
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: Blue Ridge GA
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...again, in EVERY CASE that my car wouldn't start, when i changed out the ignition module the car would start and run fine...i have no loose connections, no bad or dirty connections, and the only thing i changed out that was NEVER changed out and was in place and common to all installations of all my ignition modules was the capacitor assembly, which i cahnged out a few weeks ago....
#23
.....don't know what to tell ya at this point...that was the ONLY thing i had left to replace...but as i said, only time will tell!....good luck..ps, IF the distributor was bought brand new, are you sure the capacitor is "good"....food for thought...
#24
Le Mans Master
The FSM for my 87 says "Since the capacitor is used only for radio noise suppression, it will seldom need replacement". I really think you guys have another problem that points to the ICM, and Mailman, you've almost confirmed that. Just trying to help, actually looking through the FSM now.
#25
The FSM for my 87 says "Since the capacitor is used only for radio noise suppression, it will seldom need replacement". I really think you guys have another problem that points to the ICM, and Mailman, you've almost confirmed that. Just trying to help, actually looking through the FSM now.
#26
Le Mans Master
Have you read the section in the FSM about the ESC? I'm probably grasping, but this is what it says "The controller is a hard wired signal processor and amplifier which operates from 6 to 16 volts. Controller failure would be no ignition, no retard or full retard". I'm just saying I highly doubt the ICM is the trouble. I'm not sure if an ESC could cause an intermittent, but I really think we need to be looking outside the fish bowl, meaning what else could be causing a problem that is interpreted as a bad ICM, or cause an ICM to in fact go bad.
#27
Have you read the section in the FSM about the ESC? I'm probably grasping, but this is what it says "The controller is a hard wired signal processor and amplifier which operates from 6 to 16 volts. Controller failure would be no ignition, no retard or full retard". I'm just saying I highly doubt the ICM is the trouble. I'm not sure if an ESC could cause an intermittent, but I really think we need to be looking outside the fish bowl, meaning what else could be causing a problem that is interpreted as a bad ICM, or cause an ICM to in fact go bad.
#28
THE CARNAGE RE-VISITED!
..ok, it happened again!...in mid/late july this year, i replaced the original a/c delco ignition control module and all was cool and car ran fine. three days ago, i went to start car and car would not start (cranks but no start)....i took a wild stab and put in the orig esc module located near/on the heater box and put a 40 amp charge on the battery for 5 minutes and THE CAR STARTED!...now wait, don't draw a conclusion yet!
...today, approx 4 days later, i went out to start car and no start!..i fooled around with 2 known good esc modules and still no start..
...so, after cranking the battery down a bit, i hooked up my 200 amp starter/charger and cranked in the 200 amp start mode with the esc module DISCONNECTED and it appeared to almost want to start..so, to add to my non-sensical thinking of disconnecting things, disconnected the tps sensor and the car, after sputtering a bit, STARTED!..
...i have no codes thrown...what gives?..could a defective esc (not ign cont. mod.) or tps sensor keep the car from starting?...i should have disconnected the maf to see if that could be either the cause (as an intermittent) or a contributing factor....COMMENTS PLEASE!.....thanks!
..ok, it happened again!...in mid/late july this year, i replaced the original a/c delco ignition control module and all was cool and car ran fine. three days ago, i went to start car and car would not start (cranks but no start)....i took a wild stab and put in the orig esc module located near/on the heater box and put a 40 amp charge on the battery for 5 minutes and THE CAR STARTED!...now wait, don't draw a conclusion yet!
...today, approx 4 days later, i went out to start car and no start!..i fooled around with 2 known good esc modules and still no start..
...so, after cranking the battery down a bit, i hooked up my 200 amp starter/charger and cranked in the 200 amp start mode with the esc module DISCONNECTED and it appeared to almost want to start..so, to add to my non-sensical thinking of disconnecting things, disconnected the tps sensor and the car, after sputtering a bit, STARTED!..
...i have no codes thrown...what gives?..could a defective esc (not ign cont. mod.) or tps sensor keep the car from starting?...i should have disconnected the maf to see if that could be either the cause (as an intermittent) or a contributing factor....COMMENTS PLEASE!.....thanks!
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 09-24-2008 at 05:41 PM. Reason: spelling error and additional
#29
Le Mans Master
Well, first disconnect the MAF (I don't think that's your problem, and will usually throw a code) but try it. Second I'd check the TPS .54 volts to approx. 5 volts at WOT, linear, meaning a nice smooth increase without any dips. I think you may have eliminated the esc as a potential problem.
#30
Well, first disconnect the MAF (I don't think that's your problem, and will usually throw a code) but try it. Second I'd check the TPS .54 volts to approx. 5 volts at WOT, linear, meaning a nice smooth increase without any dips. I think you may have eliminated the esc as a potential problem.
#32
.....yeah, well i am losing ground!....i have no codes thrown and when it runs (that's the buzz word - WHEN") it runs well.....if my troubleshooting skills were any damn good, i'd-a fixed this Bit_h by now!
#33
Melting Slicks
Yeah but none of the geniuses here have figured it out either!
#34
...now now...everyone is a genius in some way or with something
re: vettes......i wonder if i may have (again, reaching at straws!) some part of my computer that is thermally intermittant causing this?...i have another good known computer i may substitute and i know that the connections to same are good.....may start ripping things out tomorrow and rechecking everything all over again....
re: vettes......i wonder if i may have (again, reaching at straws!) some part of my computer that is thermally intermittant causing this?...i have another good known computer i may substitute and i know that the connections to same are good.....may start ripping things out tomorrow and rechecking everything all over again....
#35
Le Mans Master
WOW! I kinda think you've some what found your problem. This is what I think. You have a bad connection, wire etc. this is why. You really sent a charge through it with that 40 amp and 200 amp....bridgeing any bad wire or connections. I'd be checking ALL connections, especially the male portion to make sure they were spread apart far enough to make a solid connection, and I'd probably ohm alot of wires involed in those circuits. Just trying to help. I know you've done alot.
#36
WOW! I kinda think you've some what found your problem. This is what I think. You have a bad connection, wire etc. this is why. You really sent a charge through it with that 40 amp and 200 amp....bridgeing any bad wire or connections. I'd be checking ALL connections, especially the male portion to make sure they were spread apart far enough to make a solid connection, and I'd probably ohm alot of wires involed in those circuits. Just trying to help. I know you've done alot.
#37
Le Mans Master
I'm not a genious, like some claim they are. We're all here to try and help/suggest some type of remedy or test! Sometimes I think some posters just try to gather stars or whatever! Maybe you should start with checking the connections to the ECM, make sure they're clean and tight. Then move on to the esc and tps, doing the same! Inspect (ground connections) especially the battery connections. I once had a problem, when it finally came down to the end result, I peeled back part of the battery ground connection insulation, just to find for some distance the copper wireing was green (corroded), causing my problem, replaced it...end of MY problem.
#38
I'm not a genious, like some claim they are. We're all here to try and help/suggest some type of remedy or test! ***agreed***Sometimes I think some posters just try to gather stars or whatever!***i agree absolutely!*** Maybe you should start with checking the connections to the ECM, make sure they're clean and tight.***already did that twice when i started having problems and all is cool*** Then move on to the esc ***did that the other day and that is cool*** and tps ***will do that again in next day or so***, doing the same! Inspect (ground connections) especially the battery connections ***i have no problem cranking or any lighting, etc and clamps, connections and wires are sound***.
I once had a problem, when it finally came down to the end result, I peeled back part of the battery ground connection insulation, just to find for some distance the copper wireing was green (corroded), causing my problem, replaced it...end of MY problem.***mine seems to be somewhere in the primary (12v)to the distributor (noting that i have 12v to the terminals when i take off the coil cover) but, possibly either "feeding" (primary) the i.c.m. or the output of the i.c.m. . maybe there is a pulse that is being "lost" or similar...
I once had a problem, when it finally came down to the end result, I peeled back part of the battery ground connection insulation, just to find for some distance the copper wireing was green (corroded), causing my problem, replaced it...end of MY problem.***mine seems to be somewhere in the primary (12v)to the distributor (noting that i have 12v to the terminals when i take off the coil cover) but, possibly either "feeding" (primary) the i.c.m. or the output of the i.c.m. . maybe there is a pulse that is being "lost" or similar...
#39
......i am re-looking at post #26 however, i wonder if it would still start with it disconnected completely or if due to a bad connection/short, or similar with it connected could be the culprit.......
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 09-25-2008 at 08:06 AM. Reason: additional
#40
.....A THOUGHT!
......i was sitting here thinking that in every event that i had a "no-start" situation and believed it to be the ignition module and changed it out, what did i have to mess with in doing so?
...remove the electrical wires attached to the coil
...remove some secondary wires attached to the coil (spark plug wires)
...remove cap
...remove rotor
...remove shield on ignition module
...remove screws holding ignition module
...remove bothe connectors on each side of ignition module
...remove module
.......since it is looking like a bad connection at/to/with/from the ignition module,;
...remove the electrical wires attached to the coil
***that would not cause symptom
...remove some secondary wires attached to the coil (spark plug wires)
***could cause symptom but, have a solid 12v at primary input
...remove cap
***cap is fine,button ok, to carbon.that would not cause symptom
...remove rotor
***would not cause symptom. contacts solid and clean
...remove shield on ignition module
***not shorting with anything.would not cause symptom
...remove screws holding ignition module
***would not cause symptom
...remove both connectors on each side of ignition module
***could be cause. maybe wire split inside insulation
...remove module
***n/a
...i may have to check to see if i have a bent/dirty contact at the plug attachments at each end of the module since teh pins of the module are clean and straight..
...may have to re-examine the pick up coil inside and at the base of the distributor as i had replace that some time back..
...opinions??
......i was sitting here thinking that in every event that i had a "no-start" situation and believed it to be the ignition module and changed it out, what did i have to mess with in doing so?
...remove the electrical wires attached to the coil
...remove some secondary wires attached to the coil (spark plug wires)
...remove cap
...remove rotor
...remove shield on ignition module
...remove screws holding ignition module
...remove bothe connectors on each side of ignition module
...remove module
.......since it is looking like a bad connection at/to/with/from the ignition module,;
...remove the electrical wires attached to the coil
***that would not cause symptom
...remove some secondary wires attached to the coil (spark plug wires)
***could cause symptom but, have a solid 12v at primary input
...remove cap
***cap is fine,button ok, to carbon.that would not cause symptom
...remove rotor
***would not cause symptom. contacts solid and clean
...remove shield on ignition module
***not shorting with anything.would not cause symptom
...remove screws holding ignition module
***would not cause symptom
...remove both connectors on each side of ignition module
***could be cause. maybe wire split inside insulation
...remove module
***n/a
...i may have to check to see if i have a bent/dirty contact at the plug attachments at each end of the module since teh pins of the module are clean and straight..
...may have to re-examine the pick up coil inside and at the base of the distributor as i had replace that some time back..
...opinions??