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L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old 07-21-2008, 05:37 AM   #1
IslandVette808
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Default Bad ignition module symptoms

Just wondering what are the symptoms that a bad or damaged ignition module will cause? I have been getting code 42 meaning it could be the ignition module but my car still runs fine and strong, so im just curious. Thanks!!!
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Old 07-21-2008, 08:04 AM   #2
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Hey Zeits - Get a load of this!!! 42 ICC code

Check this Island (pics for PCM by-pass):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...9&postcount=68

Read the whole thread; good pics and GOOD info...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2069247

Your module alone can be tested at the Advance Zone any store.

Zeits -we need to swap PCM's too, to see what happens. PM me if you wanna' try it. I can do without mine if you wanna' go first...

Last edited by schrade; 07-21-2008 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:43 AM   #3
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Mine were hard starting, long cranking to start.
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:56 AM   #4
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Mine began as car not starting when hot. Then one day in cruise it just quit.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfi View Post
Mine began as car not starting when hot. Then one day in cruise it just quit.
I have had an on-going problem with ignition modules burning out about every 6 months on my 86 auto. I used to have an MSD 6A system on it and people on this forum told me this was the problem. But here I am 6 months later and my IM just burned out again.

Mine always goes bye, bye after I shut the car off and try to start it up later. It can be overnight, or I can stop to get gas, but it never has stopped while running. This problem has happened in the original distributor and in an Accel distributor that I purchased to solve the problem.
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Mine were hard starting, long cranking to start.
You mean like the engine taking more than, say 10 seconds or more, to fully turn over?
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Old 07-30-2008, 04:04 AM   #7
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A bad ICM is usually one of those "20 minute" type things. They tend to reveal themselves as bad when the car is hot.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:16 AM   #8
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....there is a long thread i started a few weeks ago dealing with ignition modules..take it from a guy who's replaced 8 of them!...in my case the car would simply not start...crank but no spark and no start....while there are symptoms of rough running at times that could be related to the ignition module due to heat, most of the time the ignition module will simply be either bad or good, period....

...no power to coil, bad coil, bad pick-up coil in distributor, bad ignition module, missing contact "button" on inside of cap can result in no start/spark...

...i don't believe that long cranking times have to do with the ignition module as i have that very same problem since i have owned my car...i have since replaced my capacitor/condenser assembly inside my distributor (1988) and am waiting to see how long my 8th module lasts.....what i would reccomend is that you change out the module and see what happens..at least you will have a spare to carry with you should yours go out while you are out.....good luck....
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Old 07-30-2008, 11:50 AM   #9
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Hey Mail Man, thought you eliminated the Ignition module as the cuprit?
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:12 PM   #10
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It'll start as hard starts; yes it'll take longer to turn over.

Then one day in the middle of traffic, with no warning, it will die and you'll be stuck there. It'll crank and crank forever and wont fire.

So I'd go ahead and replace it, its cheap, but follow the electronic troubleshooting guides in the manual and make sure something else isnt bad too.
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick lambert View Post
Hey Mail Man, thought you eliminated the Ignition module as the cuprit?
...yeah, i think i did but, only time will tell on this one...i have noticed that it starts a bit easier and i get a little less "whine" in the audio n the car...
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:33 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by vader86 View Post
It'll start as hard starts; yes it'll take longer to turn over.

Then one day in the middle of traffic, with no warning, it will die and you'll be stuck there. It'll crank and crank forever and wont fire.

So I'd go ahead and replace it, its cheap, but follow the electronic troubleshooting guides in the manual and make sure something else isnt bad too.

........
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick lambert View Post
Hey Mail Man, thought you eliminated the Ignition module as the cuprit?
My 86 needs a new IM every 6 months. It has never gone out while running. It always happens after I shut the car off and then try to restart or start it up first thing in the morning. I've replaced many, many in 9 years. Putting my system back to totally stock has not helped. Putting in a new distributor has not helped. So, I can eliminate the threads about the bad pick up coil, bad wiring harness and using aftermarket coils/MSD. Next??
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealthvette View Post
My 86 needs a new IM every 6 months. It has never gone out while running. It always happens after I shut the car off and then try to restart or start it up first thing in the morning. I've replaced many, many in 9 years. Putting my system back to totally stock has not helped. Putting in a new distributor has not helped. So, I can eliminate the threads about the bad pick up coil, bad wiring harness and using aftermarket coils/MSD. Next??
....mine has never gone out while running either...it is when, after use, that it will crap out when i want to start it...i have over time and doing the usual tune ups and not throwing parts at it, have narrowed it down so far to be what i mentioned in an earlier threat here and again, only time will tell.....it is the ONLY part that i have either not tested or replaced....
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:30 PM   #15
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My experience: Hot day-in traffic, starts to die, restarts about 3 times and then its over.
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Da Mail Man View Post
....mine has never gone out while running either...it is when, after use, that it will crap out when i want to start it...i have over time and doing the usual tune ups and not throwing parts at it, have narrowed it down so far to be what i mentioned in an earlier threat here and again, only time will tell.....it is the ONLY part that i have either not tested or replaced....
As I recall you have tried changing your small wire harness inside the distributor. I hope that works for you. Unfortunately, I have replaced the whole distributor and still have the problem.
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Old 08-07-2008, 07:47 PM   #17
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As I recall you have tried changing your small wire harness inside the distributor. I hope that works for you. Unfortunately, I have replaced the whole distributor and still have the problem.
...granted but, how do you know that you don't have a problem with the capacitor in the distributor?..that is the only thing i have not replaced....if it starts to crap out due to heat, etc., that could be a cause...as for me, that is the ONLY thing i have not tried...in a points car i had a long time ago, the capacitor shorted out and car would not start...i disconnected the capacitor/condenser and it started immediatly......good luck..

Last edited by Da Mail Man; 08-08-2008 at 12:25 PM. Reason: word clarification
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:16 PM   #18
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Stealthvette, when your ICM seemed to go bad did you take it into AutoZone or some other place to confirm it was bad? or just replaced it. If I were you 2 guys I'd also be checking connections on the ECM.

I think mailman replaced one of his ICM, then took it in and it checked out to be OK. Problem is, there is no way for US to check out the ICM, takes special equipment.
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick lambert View Post
Stealthvette, when your ICM seemed to go bad did you take it into AutoZone or some other place to confirm it was bad? or just replaced it. If I were you 2 guys I'd also be checking connections on the ECM.

I think mailman replaced one of his ICM, then took it in and it checked out to be OK. Problem is, there is no way for US to check out the ICM, takes special equipment.
...that is correct..i never took any of my icm's (8 or 9) in to be tested as they were all under warranty..i DID take the last ac delco TWICE and the first time ran it through 3x's and it tested good..the second time i ran it through +/- 15x's and it also tested good...i DID however a long time ago, cleaned and checked all the connections to/from the icm....
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:54 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Da Mail Man View Post
...that is correct..i never took any of my icm's (8 or 9) in to be tested as they were all under warranty..i DID take the last ac delco TWICE and the first time ran it through 3x's and it tested good..the second time i ran it through +/- 15x's and it also tested good...i DID however a long time ago, cleaned and checked all the connections to/from the icm....
I have done the same. I would have to assume that the IM is the culprit because changing it is the only thing that gets the car running again. Any ideas why this is what works?
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:54 PM
 
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