TIMSPEED

Anyone know a good shop to order my rotating assembly through? I seen Speed-O-Motive had some good prices...The only thing that's a MUST is forged pistons. I'd LIKE to get one with 6" rods. But other than that, brand name isn't an issue.
Rotating Assembly Must Include:
Crank, Rods, Pistons, Bearings/Rings/Pins/Gaskets, All electronically balanced.

My block will be taken out and freshened up, and bored .030 over.

GlennS87

I've never ordered from them but http://www.flatlanderracing.com seems to have decent prices. I don't have any idea what their service is like though.

scorp508

Why must you have forged pistons, but not rods? Nitrous? :) Keep in mind that the rods and botls take the most abuse in the rotating assembly. (in my opinion)

TIMSPEED

Hmm, then I guess Forged Rods aswell. I thought Rods were all made of the same stuff...Guess I was wrong! :crazy:
And yes, I'm going to be putting a N.O.S. plate kit on this motor.
Wouldn't it be crazy, to make a setup, where instead of fuel injectors on the fuel rail, they were Nitrous Fogger Nozzles. :crazy: :crazy: I would be FLAT OUT FRIGHTENED if I seen someone with a setup like that!

scorp508

You mean like a direct port nitrous kit.

Chris@SD

Give me a ring. I would be happy to help. We have some great prices on rotating assemblies!
Thanks,

yoslambo1@cs.com

i just bought a whole 383 stroker for $3900.00 including shipping from http://www.allchevyengines.com im sure he can help with your needs. he charged me $100.oo extra for forged pistons, $400.00 extra for a roller cam set up. $500.oo extra for aluminum heads(dart pro 1) .if i didnt want all those things i would have got it for $2900.00 including shipping! check him out his name is joe. good luck. :cheers:

Vic'89

Rods and rod bolts take abuse when the rpms go over 6000 rpms consistantly.

Forged pistons are good for a power adder, otherwise stick with cast pistons.

Vic

dtorc4

For a street setup, Hypereutectic pistons are the way to go. They have more silicon in them than cast, reducing scuffing the cylinder walls. Forged pistons are stronger, but since they expand more than cast or hyper pistons, they need more wall clearance, thus creating more startup noise until they heat up. Hypers are also (generally) about $100/set less than forged. As far as power goes, I don't believe the composition of the pistons would make more power; just the weight and the make of it (i.e. dish, flat top, domed) to change the compression ratio would change the power. Good luck! :cheers:

ChrisB

Not all forged pistons are the same though - a prime example is JE/SRP vs. JE
(4032 vs. 2618 alloy).

the 4032 is a higher silicon forging which will not expand or contract nearly as much as the 2618 JE pistons. this allows for tighter clearances and so less "piston slap" when cold, etc. The tradeoff is brittleness and thermal conduction. Though any forging will be much better at conducting heat away than a hyper/cast piston, the more silicon it has the worse it will be. Silicon also increases the brittleness of the piston.

A set of SRP's in a well set up motor should not really be distinguishable as far as piston noise, oil consumption, etc. goes (as compared to hyper pistons). Je's would, but that can be minimized other ways.

A good SRP forging is probably going to be much lighter than the cast or hyper options out there also - making the job of the rods and bolts that much easier.

RACER7088

Chris B is absolutely right. If you want the best of bost world's go with the SRP which is midrange in price and still way stronger than hypers while still allowing reasonable cold clearances to reduce cold knock. 4032 is even used on some race pistons now and is a VERY good street alloy anyday! :yesnod:

GlennS87

I have the SRP's and I get no piston slap at startup. I think they are a good compromise.

Chris@SD

Erik! What are you doing down here in the C4 section?!?!
I will give you a ring tomorrow. :)

As stated above, the SRP is a great street piston that will take a lot of abuse and "behave" well on the street also.