dustmann

Boost gauge fit just perfect. No cutting. I can put the vent back anytime. You can choose from 7 colors LED that come on with the park light. I put a toggle to turn the light off if I want. (bright at night)
With the 2.50" Pulley I am pushing 15 psi of boost. I have a 2.25" pulley, but need to wait for a re-tune with Ed Wright at Fastchip.

AKS Racing

The boost guage looks nice. Similar to the Callaway placement (just different hole.)

I believe that I have already mentioned the frustration you will experience with the 2.25" driven pulley. The 2.4" pulley on the P600B is the best I could get to work with the modified belt wrap (not for lack of trying...). The 2.25" pulley introduces to much belt angularity, and will result in decreased boost (and lots of dust).
Aaron

BrianCunningham

Looks

I'm looking to mount one on the a-pillar.

AKS Racing

I have the electronic FP and the boost guage on the A-pillar. The A-pillar mount works well for me, though you will rarely look at them, instead having to pay attention to the road. But that is what datalogs are for...
Aaron

dustmann

Thanks , Similar to the Callaway placement- I wish I could say / Ya that was what I was thinking. Just lucky!

My first choice for the gauge was the far left, but the depth of the gauge would make me cut the back out. So I move it over one hole.

Aaron , even if I moved my idler pulley the 2.25" still will not work? How are you getting so much boost? You still use the 2.40"?

Brian , I did look at a a-pillar mount. I even look at the left dash speaker location to mod a mount on top. But I did not want to have anything stick out/over/up. So I popped a vent out and it slid right in. The radio wires also are close and taped it for battery power/ ground and park lights power.

AKS Racing

I thought you said that you were going to try the 2.25". I was just detailing my experience with the small pulley on a P-600B. The most I ever got out of the P600B was 14 psi without an I/C (just a test). But that motor had a pretty large cam and big heads. at just over 10 psi it made right at 570WHP.

My combo now has the D1R which flows a bunch more air (1200CFM vs 2300CFM). I have a bigger engine combo (408 vs 355, bigger heads AFR 215CPs that are closer 225CFM vs AFR195s, huge SR vs large HR, much better flowing C4SP intake vs the heavily modded SR, etc.), but all of that does not cover the extra flow. If I put this blower back on the old 355, it would be too large for anything except an all out drag car.
Aaron

dustmann

Ihear you.If you have done it and it did not work. I will listen to you. I do not want to spend the money for a re-tune to just put it back and re-tune. I have stock heads/ stock headers/ small cam 224/260 .502/.510, 114 Ls. I think you and others have said to find so long tube haeders first. The larger pulley 3" (or 2.75" some have said) set up made 396.48Hp @ 10psi in drive/3rd. Did bump 12psi in 2nd. The smaller 2.50" (or 2.40") hit 15psi in 2nd.( ? @ what RPMs, Idid not see). I have only driven one time with this pulley and the boost gauge on. It has been too cold and spins tires. I need to see D/3rd 1:1gear what boost @ what RPMs?
Thanks for all the help and advice.

AKS Racing

You will like the 2.4" pulley on the P600B, as that pretty much places you on the upper limit of what you can get out of that blower with the factory drive shive on the crank.

Enjoy.
Aaron

dustmann

Thank you Aaron

??? Any luck with your fab guy to make a roll bar or hoop for the verts. I still can't go to the tracks. Might take a poll and see how many we might need for the forum?

whisper3H

I have a P600B on my car, i haven't really looked into pulley swaps, but i want to buy a digital boost gauge and mount it on A-pillar...

PAINTER MAN

I have a digital boost gauge and I can tell you, it is impossible to see it in the sunlight.

armybyrd

For those mounting gauges on the a-pillar how did you route your wires? Did you use the fuseblock as your power?

jdraughn

May want to look at adding a resistor to bring the brightness of the light down some for at night. 100ohm is probably a good starting area, even better just get a variable resistor from radio shack, about a 1000ohm, or even a 500ohm if they go that low.

Once you dial it in to the brightness you like at night, measure the resistance with a multimeter and then buy the closest resistor to that value you can find.

Im not famliar with how the gauge is wired though, you need to make sure the resistor is just on the leds and not the gauge electronics.

dustmann

Thanks for the resistor idea. I might try that. But I still want to have the swicth to turn off the LED's at night. If I am just driving at night it draws me to the gauge in the center dash. Like a magnet. Thanks Douglas

whisper3H

Never thought of that...im glad you said something, what about the ones that have a digtal bar or ring that mover with analog needle (i think cyberdyne makes it) much like the digi gauges for rpm/MPH

PAINTER MAN

Originally Posted by PAINTER MAN View Post
I have a digital boost gauge and I can tell you, it is impossible to see it in the sunlight.

I can't answer that. Mine just displays the number.