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the knock sensor is down by the the starter, a little in front of it, threaded into the block just above the oil pan, it has a 1 pin connector and its round, kinda hard to see.. not sure on the esc, I'd havta dig a manual out.. my car was kinda lacking parts when I got it..
When you go to remove the knock sensor, take care you don't break the plastic nipple (acoustic coupler) thingie that surrounds the sensor electrode. One slip of your box-ended wrench and BLOOP! It's done for.
You can use a pair of vice clamp to get a good bite on the circular part of the sensor to coax it out if need be. Be sure and re-torque the sensor to FSM specs. since it needs to be adequately installed to listen for spark knock.
I believe it's 13 or 15 lbs. but someone who knows for sure chime in.
Does it really matter? Put it in til it's tight.. Just because you HAVE a torque spec for something doesn't mean it's absolutely critical.. I doubt few people have ever installed a knock sensor with a torque wrench..
You don't even have to use a torque wrench to install head bolts, but it would probably be a good idea.
That's one of the few things you ever see someone in the shop pull a torque wrench out for. It's important to torque head bolts to spec. If you ever had an engine replaced under warranty at a gm dealer I can almost guarantee the knock sensor wasn't torqued to spec, along with all of the other sensors. I know I've never bothered to on any engine I've ever done at work, never saw anyone else do it either. Can't say it's ever been an issue. There are probably some guys out there that do it though, who knows.. If you arn't sure how tight to make it a torque wrench defently wouldn't hurt though..