My 84 did not start - looking for ideas
#1
Drifting
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My 84 did not start - looking for ideas
Yesterday I got my 84 auto car running. It started and ran fine after installing the battery. I drove it about 50 miles with no problems. Then I drove it again last night with no issues.
This morning I went out to start it and it did not crank. I could hear a relay behind the DIC clicking when I turned the key to start, but nothing from the starter. I checked the wiring around the started and nothing broken. I had 12 volts at the starter terminal. All fuses good. When I turned the key I got the check engine and brake light, but no security light. Went and unlocked the door with the key and still nothing.
So I disconnected the battery for a minute and re-hooked it up. Then it started with no problem. I do not have my shop manual here (I am going to get it now) but wanted to check what other peoples opinion on what the problem is. I am leaning toward a malfunction of the security system, but not sure.
I still am not getting the security light, like I usually would before putting the key in the ignition.
What are your thoughts?
This morning I went out to start it and it did not crank. I could hear a relay behind the DIC clicking when I turned the key to start, but nothing from the starter. I checked the wiring around the started and nothing broken. I had 12 volts at the starter terminal. All fuses good. When I turned the key I got the check engine and brake light, but no security light. Went and unlocked the door with the key and still nothing.
So I disconnected the battery for a minute and re-hooked it up. Then it started with no problem. I do not have my shop manual here (I am going to get it now) but wanted to check what other peoples opinion on what the problem is. I am leaning toward a malfunction of the security system, but not sure.
I still am not getting the security light, like I usually would before putting the key in the ignition.
What are your thoughts?
#2
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Definately sounds like an alarm issue. It may just be 1 of the door sensors (there are 2). I needed to disable mine and cut the starter interrupt from the alarm which didn't really matter as I had a secondary alarm in the car with more advance features, just hooked up the starter interrupt to the secondary alarm stater disable. works good now and when I find a deal on replace OEM alarm I will replace it (My car is still very much original).
Good Luck,
Woody
Good Luck,
Woody
#3
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Could be poor battery connection. The clicking relay is the theft circuit relay which cycles when battery voltage is low. I recommend disconnecting both battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery terminals and replace the cables (neg last).
Battery connections should be just like your lover, bright and tight!
Battery connections should be just like your lover, bright and tight!
#4
Drifting
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Could be poor battery connection. The clicking relay is the theft circuit relay which cycles when battery voltage is low. I recommend disconnecting both battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery terminals and replace the cables (neg last).
Battery connections should be just like your lover, bright and tight!
Battery connections should be just like your lover, bright and tight!
Really? I would not have thought of that. The battery was showing 11.93 volts at the terminal, not on the matter lead itself. I will for sure check he terminals and clean them very good. I was showing 11.xx volts on the dash also. Could that still be a possible cause? I could wuse a bright and tight lover right now!!
Now I have had a problem from time to time where I would unlock the drivers door with the key and then use the inner power lock button on the drivers door to unlock the passenger side door. When the passenger would open the door, it would trip the alarm. I would go back to the drivers door and put the key in and turn it again, and it would shut off the alarm.
Now I am begining to wonder if these problems are related.
#5
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The dash voltmeter reads low when the engine isn't running or the alternator isn't charging the battery. Car batteries are considered discharged at 12.0 volts and lower and they should be recharged at least overnight by a battery charger. Fully charged is 12.9 v or higher and linear in between.
Car batteries self discharge up to 1% each day even if disconnected and cars that sit for long (4+ wks) should have a battery tender connected to the battery. Tenders measure the battery voltage and when the battery drops 10% charge, they charge them up and shut off.
Batteries that sit so long they become discharged, collect lead sulfate on their plates and become door stops.
I recommend cleaning your cables/batt posts, and charging the battery up with a battery charger and buying and using a battery tender.
Car batteries self discharge up to 1% each day even if disconnected and cars that sit for long (4+ wks) should have a battery tender connected to the battery. Tenders measure the battery voltage and when the battery drops 10% charge, they charge them up and shut off.
Batteries that sit so long they become discharged, collect lead sulfate on their plates and become door stops.
I recommend cleaning your cables/batt posts, and charging the battery up with a battery charger and buying and using a battery tender.