dry

I am about to tear into my new to me 89 project vette.

1st on the agenda is the heater core have already took an in depth look at, just looks like any other heater core. Is there any tricks to getting it out quicker than what it looks like, i know how to bypass it by would rather replace it and know its right?

2nd on the agenda is the O2 Sensor the previous owner said don't worry about the o2 sensor code it is fine, he just put a hotter stat in it and is causing it to throw the o2 code "i don't beleive that" after looking i found the O2 sensor on the drivers side down pipe and its harness melted to the top of the cat, so i peeled the melted o2 harness plug from the cat and clipped the 02 melted connecters and straight wired the o2 wires together without the connectors. How can i test the O2 sensor before buying a new one???

All opinions and help appreciated and thanking you in advance...

RandyJ75

Do a search on heater core, you should find lots of info on it. Also, a FSM is very helpful with a job like this.
To test the O2 sensor, you will need to scan the computer to see what it is reading.

SunCr

The heater core is simply taking off whatever is in the way and removing it - then putting it all back. For me, that's the top pad, some of the HVAC ductwork (which you can seal back up with some duct tape when you slap it back together), the Bread Box, the ECM and maybe a couple of other things. There's some sticky sealer on the Heater Box - a pain to get out of the carpet - and of course you don't won't coolant dripping all over everything, so you might put some plastic down. You can also replace a few things that are now accessible while it's torn apart - like the Flasher (there are 2 - one for the 4 way and one for the signals), or maybe the Bose Relay.

The O2 generates a 13 when it's opened and you should have had a Check Engine Light and the Code would stay in History for a 100 ignition cycles. Assuming the Check Engine Light works, clear the Code and see if stays away. New Sensors come with the female half of the pigtail/connector. NAPA might sell the other half. If the metal is still there, reform the locking tank and insert it into the new connector. Like any sensor circuit, you don't want any resistance in it, so a good connection is mandatory and if you make a splice, use some solder.

dry

Yes it throws a service engine light and the code says 02 sensor, thats what the previous owner was saying but yet the previous ownwer said its a false code the 02 sensor was good.........."Now go figure" that is why i was seeing if there was a way to check it off the car or just buy a new one......

ch@0s

a new 02 is only $20 at advaced auto

SunCr

If it's a 13, ohm out the signal wire to the ECM which terminates at PIN D7. If that's good, check the ECM sensor ground, Pin D6 - wire from ECM to bellhousing (though it may be somewhere else for your Year). Note - you want the O2 working because that gives it the mix that makes a lot of stuff last - probably well after it's gone to the boneyard. Running on backup fattens it up, and overtime, that wears out plugs, the CAT (dump enough fuel in it and it'll burn to the ground) builds up carbon on top of the pistons, etc, etc.

carson

O2 sensors should be considered a tune-up item like plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil, injectors.

I'd consider using a heated o2 sensor, works better.

dry

Thanks for the info on the o2!

As far as a heated o2. do you just ask for a heated o2 is this ok to buy from autozone?

Whats the difference betwee a 20.00 o2 and 150.00 wide band o2 you see advertised? Which one should i be buying for 1989 / L98?

aklim

I don't think you need a wide band O2 sensor. Just a regular heated Bosch unit will be fine.