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if you wait till the idle goes back down to 600 rpm after the computer goes through it's self check, it will be less noticeable.
If you stick it in drive or reverse when it's about 900-1000 rpm, remember, at 900 RPM, that's 45 mph, with TPI, that's a lot of torque.
I think they fixed that problem in 1988 with a valve body bleed-off orifice.
because we have already been through the panic factor, and we know what to expect.
at 100K, I changed u joints (all 6) bead blasted the parking brake shoe backing plate, resanding the parking brakes, sanded the rear brake pads, had the rear discs turned, changed front brakes, new front rotors, new master cylinder, new brake booster, bled the brake system, changed the tie rods, steering rack, had it aligned, replaced the plastic window tracks, had the seats and steering wheel redyed, new wipers, new heads, new radiator, new radiator and heater hoses, new mufflers, installed polyeurethane shock absorber biscuits, new air conditioning compressor, new fuel hoses, replaced the injectors, fuel filter, I figure I could get another 100,000 miles out of it if I did it right.
It's still going strong, it has 144,000 now.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 05-28-2009 at 12:03 AM.
josephf31 had the right idea. gears loose or the output shaft on the trany may be worn, it takes a lot to break it but the teeth can wear and get loose on the yolk to the drive shaft or also check from the drive shaft to the rear end. if you do the drive shaft u-joints, do one at a time and take the rear off first and then try to spin it when still hooked to trany and feel for play then do the same to the rear. just have one side still hooked up each time so you dont fight the rear and the trany at the same time.