Installed Banskis Trailing arms today
#3
Melting Slicks
Either way, these look great, have you driven it around yet so you can share your thoughts?
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
If your thinking about making the trailing arms by the time you buy quality components and do it right I believe you'll spend about the same amount of money.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; 08-29-2009 at 07:31 PM.
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
I clean up the area a little before going on a drive
Its probably the last time anyone will see them looking nice. So here's another
Its probably the last time anyone will see them looking nice. So here's another
#6
Le Mans Master
Haha, yep. Breaks my heart too. Go cleaning up suspension parts and they are going to get dirty. I'm jealous these are all the mods I want to do. Looking good.
Are you running Seals It boots on the heim joints? What size/order number if you are?
Are you running Seals It boots on the heim joints? What size/order number if you are?
Last edited by USAsOnlyWay; 08-30-2009 at 02:49 PM.
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
Rod end Boot RERS 3 - R
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 1999
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
I think it was two different sizes as one rod end was smaller than the other. Jim at SEALS it broke two packages to give what I needed.
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
I think it was two different sizes as one rod end was smaller than the other. Jim at SEALS it broke two packages to give what I needed.
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
#16
Race Director
#17
Le Mans Master
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I have been running the Banski kit since spring of this year without boots. No problems at all. They still look new.
I have the full kit and it really stiffened up the rear of this car. Night and day difference in handling. It shows me how bad the front is now!
I have the full kit and it really stiffened up the rear of this car. Night and day difference in handling. It shows me how bad the front is now!
#18
Team Owner
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I bought one of the original kits with the 5/8 rodends and the earlier spacers which didn't fit the DRM brackets. So I had Tom ship me out some different ones, not the tapered ones which he doesn't make for the the older kit. I went over the kit again with the new spacers this weekend.
They're going to work out, all I needed was some thick washers no machining. But, the SAE 5/8ths fastners in METRIC holes is just too sloppy for me.
I could go out an buy metric rodends to replace the ones I have, at $80...each (which explains why Tom doesn't just go ahead and run METRIC rod ends) but the holes in the uprights are probably so beat, I think I'm better off keeping what I have and putting steel inserts into my uprights. That means the install is going to have to wait until the car is in my friends shop and I can get it all torn down.
I've also replaced all the bolts with longer ones, I really don't want threads in shear.
The Penske coilovers are going to be TIGHT in there. I may have to relocate the ABS module connections, and the front swaybar.
They're going to work out, all I needed was some thick washers no machining. But, the SAE 5/8ths fastners in METRIC holes is just too sloppy for me.
I could go out an buy metric rodends to replace the ones I have, at $80...each (which explains why Tom doesn't just go ahead and run METRIC rod ends) but the holes in the uprights are probably so beat, I think I'm better off keeping what I have and putting steel inserts into my uprights. That means the install is going to have to wait until the car is in my friends shop and I can get it all torn down.
I've also replaced all the bolts with longer ones, I really don't want threads in shear.
The Penske coilovers are going to be TIGHT in there. I may have to relocate the ABS module connections, and the front swaybar.
#19
Burning Brakes
But, the SAE 5/8ths fastners in METRIC holes is just too sloppy for me.
I could go out an buy metric rodends to replace the ones I have, at $80...each (which explains why Tom doesn't just go ahead and run METRIC rod ends) but the holes in the uprights are probably so beat, I think I'm better off keeping what I have and putting steel inserts into my uprights. That means the install is going to have to wait until the car is in my friends shop and I can get it all torn down.
I could go out an buy metric rodends to replace the ones I have, at $80...each (which explains why Tom doesn't just go ahead and run METRIC rod ends) but the holes in the uprights are probably so beat, I think I'm better off keeping what I have and putting steel inserts into my uprights. That means the install is going to have to wait until the car is in my friends shop and I can get it all torn down.
How thick were the walls of the liners you had to put in? If you didn't have to drill out the holes in the knuckle, then theoretically the difference in the ID and OD of the liner will tell you how elongated the holes were.
Also as I mentioned, buying a metric rod end wouldn't help because the metric thread on the body wouldn't mate up to the threaded hole in the link body.
Looking at the stress on that bolt, the minor diameter of a 5/8-11 external thread is 0.5168 in (as listed in the Machinery's Handbook). Putting that in double shear means the link would have to see an axial force of 62,832 lb to break the bolt. If that amount of force was exerted on a single link, I don't believe the bolt would be the biggest issue. And even the above is a conservative estimate since in reality only one side of the application will have threads in shear. Assuming a double shear condition with only one side being threaded (more likely real world) I'm calculating a force of 77,430 lb would be necessary to break that bolt.
I'm quite confident in the ruggedness of my product and that it was designed to fit the stock mounting points of C4s. No vendor can possibly account for irregular wear or abuse of stock components.
#20
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well its been more than six months and THOUSANDS of miles often in miserable conditions and I'm still impressed with the improvement a couple of simple rear suspension mods made not only to the way the car handles and but the improvement in ride/comfort due to better suspension movement..
Mike
Mike