Parts for cam swap.........
09-12-2009, 02:18 PM
#1
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Parts for cam swap.........
What have I forgotten? Just doing the cam, no heads for now.
This is what I have so far.
226/230 .565/.565 111 lsa
Patriot Extreme valve spring kit
Double roller timing chain
GMPP lifter kit
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 RR
7/16 rocker studs
Tpis hardened guide plates
Comp cams 7100 hardened push rods
Mezerie EWP & wiring harness
Hardened oil pump shaft & white spring
Pan Gasket
Valve cover gaskets
Intake gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Assembly lube
Comp cams cam break in oil additive
Antifreeze
Motor oil & filter
Still need to buy
Opti
Damper
LT4 knock module
Send PCM back off for adjustment
Plug wires, serpentine belt, water hoses are fairly new so I'm not replacing them.
This is what I have so far.
226/230 .565/.565 111 lsa
Patriot Extreme valve spring kit
Double roller timing chain
GMPP lifter kit
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 RR
7/16 rocker studs
Tpis hardened guide plates
Comp cams 7100 hardened push rods
Mezerie EWP & wiring harness
Hardened oil pump shaft & white spring
Pan Gasket
Valve cover gaskets
Intake gasket
Timing cover gasket
Timing cover seal
Assembly lube
Comp cams cam break in oil additive
Antifreeze
Motor oil & filter
Still need to buy
Opti
Damper
LT4 knock module
Send PCM back off for adjustment
Plug wires, serpentine belt, water hoses are fairly new so I'm not replacing them.
Last edited by Weav's Vet; 09-13-2009 at 09:39 AM.
09-12-2009, 05:59 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
How'd you come up with 7.100 pushrod length?
A double roller timing chain set has caused several guys clearance problems. Some have had to move to an electric water pump and eliminate the Crank Position on the 96.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!
A double roller timing chain set has caused several guys clearance problems. Some have had to move to an electric water pump and eliminate the Crank Position on the 96.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!
Last edited by JAKE; 09-12-2009 at 06:01 PM.
09-12-2009, 06:26 PM
#3
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How'd you come up with 7.100 pushrod length?
A double roller timing chain set has caused several guys clearance problems. Some have had to move to an electric water pump and eliminate the Crank Position on the 96.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!
A double roller timing chain set has caused several guys clearance problems. Some have had to move to an electric water pump and eliminate the Crank Position on the 96.
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!
The EWP is listed. I'm going to try it and if I have to use a single roller I guess I will.
09-19-2009, 07:22 AM
#4
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Alrighty then......starting this process today. 
I'm open to advice/suggestions etc from all of you that have done this with the engine still in the car. I have read and read and read about this procedure but I'm sure there are a few little things left out somewhere.
I'm open to advice/suggestions etc from all of you that have done this with the engine still in the car. I have read and read and read about this procedure but I'm sure there are a few little things left out somewhere.
09-19-2009, 11:32 AM
#5
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After 2 1/2 hours this is were I'm at. I have to go to a wedding.
Maybe a little more later today.
Maybe a little more later today.
Last edited by Weav's Vet; 12-22-2013 at 01:22 PM.
09-19-2009, 12:50 PM
#7
Race Director
09-19-2009, 02:37 PM
#9
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The cam is from Lloyd Elliot. He uses Bullet cams.
Thanks, I'm trying to. This is all new territoroy for me so it's slow. I'm in no hurry anyway.
Well I did and I'm back at it. It was a JOTP ceremony. Quick!
Thanks, I'm trying to. This is all new territoroy for me so it's slow. I'm in no hurry anyway.
Well I did and I'm back at it. It was a JOTP ceremony. Quick!
09-19-2009, 05:41 PM
#10
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Got along pretty good this afternoon until...............the crank hub. Damper came right off. That Basti is stuck on there good. I left the puller on it with all the tension I could give it with a two ft piece of pipe and sprayed it down so maybe it will pop tonight. Two years ago I had my mechanic real seal all the front. I guess he skipped the crank seal. Cockroach.......
09-19-2009, 06:10 PM
#12
Tech Contributor
Just my opinion but I'd de-gunk that engine vs risking all the garbage ending up where it doesn't belong.
Good progress
Good progress
09-19-2009, 06:37 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
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C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Just my .02 but I would go for degunking and then a gentle wash down. Sometimes a power wash where dirt and grit go flying all over the place can have unintended consequences.
09-20-2009, 02:11 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
when you pull the cam, please give it a quick inspection for lobe failure and wear; on my high mileage 96 lt4 cam the last three lobes were failing; actually had deep groves in the lobes, and the next three showed definite evidence of wear; other than that the cam was fine. All this on an engine that ran great. Go figure. Of course the metal from the cam shot through the lower end, necessitating new rod and main bearings, but this is something I would have replaced anyway based on mileage alone.
I would suggest replacing the lifter hold down spider; it's cheap, and should it fail.....well a lot of hard work would go to waste.
On the bottom of your intake manifold is a removeable heat shield which just collects all kinds of crap waiting to break loose and infect a new clean engine; when you have the heat shield removed there are four large plugs on the bottom of the manifold; remove, reseal and tighten them; a leak here would cause a vacumn leak nearly impossible to diagnosis or find.
Whenever the intake manifold is off, pull the oil pump drive stub shaft assembly. the housing is some kind of high tech polymer (i.e. plastic), inspect it carefully for cracks; also check the oil pump drive gear on it's lower end for wear.
Your new opti will use vent hoses, these are most likely in need of replacing; there is also a small check valve and a filter in the line that runs from the opti up to the intake manifold, small items, but important protection for a very expensive distributor.
most vacumn lines are going to be age and heat hardened or oil soaked and soft; especially check the vacumn lines in the vicinity of the battery going to the cruise control servo.
Gasket sets, complete pan and intake manifold sets.
Above all, be patient. Too bad they don't sell that at the parts store.
Good luck
I would suggest replacing the lifter hold down spider; it's cheap, and should it fail.....well a lot of hard work would go to waste.
On the bottom of your intake manifold is a removeable heat shield which just collects all kinds of crap waiting to break loose and infect a new clean engine; when you have the heat shield removed there are four large plugs on the bottom of the manifold; remove, reseal and tighten them; a leak here would cause a vacumn leak nearly impossible to diagnosis or find.
Whenever the intake manifold is off, pull the oil pump drive stub shaft assembly. the housing is some kind of high tech polymer (i.e. plastic), inspect it carefully for cracks; also check the oil pump drive gear on it's lower end for wear.
Your new opti will use vent hoses, these are most likely in need of replacing; there is also a small check valve and a filter in the line that runs from the opti up to the intake manifold, small items, but important protection for a very expensive distributor.
most vacumn lines are going to be age and heat hardened or oil soaked and soft; especially check the vacumn lines in the vicinity of the battery going to the cruise control servo.
Gasket sets, complete pan and intake manifold sets.
Above all, be patient. Too bad they don't sell that at the parts store.
Good luck
09-20-2009, 02:34 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
please learn from my mistake...pulling the hub IS NOT HARD BUT THE TECHNIQUE IS DIFFERENT !!!
you can use a conventional puller, you do not need GM's special tool but you must use it differently.
The hub sets on the crank snout like a cap; if you use a puller in a conventional manner the lower end of the puller is actually seating against the hub itself, not the crank snout. and all you'll accomplish, if you're lucky, is nothing at all, or if you're really determined, you'll bend the ears on the hub ruin it.
Get a collection of 7/16th o.d. cap screws with FINE threads, screw a short one into the front of the crank snout but DO NOT tighten it down, now set up your puller and push (pull) against the head of the cap screw. The hub will move until it contacts the underside of the head of the cap screw. Remove that cap screw and thread in a slightly longer cap screw; set up your puller and repeat. Do this three or four times and the hub will be free. It actually takes very little torque on the puller to remove the hub.
you can use a conventional puller, you do not need GM's special tool but you must use it differently.
The hub sets on the crank snout like a cap; if you use a puller in a conventional manner the lower end of the puller is actually seating against the hub itself, not the crank snout. and all you'll accomplish, if you're lucky, is nothing at all, or if you're really determined, you'll bend the ears on the hub ruin it.
Get a collection of 7/16th o.d. cap screws with FINE threads, screw a short one into the front of the crank snout but DO NOT tighten it down, now set up your puller and push (pull) against the head of the cap screw. The hub will move until it contacts the underside of the head of the cap screw. Remove that cap screw and thread in a slightly longer cap screw; set up your puller and repeat. Do this three or four times and the hub will be free. It actually takes very little torque on the puller to remove the hub.
09-20-2009, 04:02 AM
#17
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when you pull the cam, please give it a quick inspection for lobe failure and wear; on my high mileage 96 lt4 cam the last three lobes were failing; actually had deep groves in the lobes, and the next three showed definite evidence of wear; other than that the cam was fine. All this on an engine that ran great. Go figure. Of course the metal from the cam shot through the lower end, necessitating new rod and main bearings, but this is something I would have replaced anyway based on mileage alone.
I would suggest replacing the lifter hold down spider; it's cheap, and should it fail.....well a lot of hard work would go to waste.
On the bottom of your intake manifold is a removeable heat shield which just collects all kinds of crap waiting to break loose and infect a new clean engine; when you have the heat shield removed there are four large plugs on the bottom of the manifold; remove, reseal and tighten them; a leak here would cause a vacumn leak nearly impossible to diagnosis or find.
Whenever the intake manifold is off, pull the oil pump drive stub shaft assembly. the housing is some kind of high tech polymer (i.e. plastic), inspect it carefully for cracks; also check the oil pump drive gear on it's lower end for wear.
Your new opti will use vent hoses, these are most likely in need of replacing; there is also a small check valve and a filter in the line that runs from the opti up to the intake manifold, small items, but important protection for a very expensive distributor.
most vacumn lines are going to be age and heat hardened or oil soaked and soft; especially check the vacumn lines in the vicinity of the battery going to the cruise control servo.
Gasket sets, complete pan and intake manifold sets.
Above all, be patient. Too bad they don't sell that at the parts store.
Good luck
I would suggest replacing the lifter hold down spider; it's cheap, and should it fail.....well a lot of hard work would go to waste.
On the bottom of your intake manifold is a removeable heat shield which just collects all kinds of crap waiting to break loose and infect a new clean engine; when you have the heat shield removed there are four large plugs on the bottom of the manifold; remove, reseal and tighten them; a leak here would cause a vacumn leak nearly impossible to diagnosis or find.
Whenever the intake manifold is off, pull the oil pump drive stub shaft assembly. the housing is some kind of high tech polymer (i.e. plastic), inspect it carefully for cracks; also check the oil pump drive gear on it's lower end for wear.
Your new opti will use vent hoses, these are most likely in need of replacing; there is also a small check valve and a filter in the line that runs from the opti up to the intake manifold, small items, but important protection for a very expensive distributor.
most vacumn lines are going to be age and heat hardened or oil soaked and soft; especially check the vacumn lines in the vicinity of the battery going to the cruise control servo.
Gasket sets, complete pan and intake manifold sets.
Above all, be patient. Too bad they don't sell that at the parts store.
Good luck
please learn from my mistake...pulling the hub IS NOT HARD BUT THE TECHNIQUE IS DIFFERENT !!!
you can use a conventional puller, you do not need GM's special tool but you must use it differently.
The hub sets on the crank snout like a cap; if you use a puller in a conventional manner the lower end of the puller is actually seating against the hub itself, not the crank snout. and all you'll accomplish, if you're lucky, is nothing at all, or if you're really determined, you'll bend the ears on the hub ruin it.
Get a collection of 7/16th o.d. cap screws with FINE threads, screw a short one into the front of the crank snout but DO NOT tighten it down, now set up your puller and push (pull) against the head of the cap screw. The hub will move until it contacts the underside of the head of the cap screw. Remove that cap screw and thread in a slightly longer cap screw; set up your puller and repeat. Do this three or four times and the hub will be free. It actually takes very little torque on the puller to remove the hub.
you can use a conventional puller, you do not need GM's special tool but you must use it differently.
The hub sets on the crank snout like a cap; if you use a puller in a conventional manner the lower end of the puller is actually seating against the hub itself, not the crank snout. and all you'll accomplish, if you're lucky, is nothing at all, or if you're really determined, you'll bend the ears on the hub ruin it.
Get a collection of 7/16th o.d. cap screws with FINE threads, screw a short one into the front of the crank snout but DO NOT tighten it down, now set up your puller and push (pull) against the head of the cap screw. The hub will move until it contacts the underside of the head of the cap screw. Remove that cap screw and thread in a slightly longer cap screw; set up your puller and repeat. Do this three or four times and the hub will be free. It actually takes very little torque on the puller to remove the hub.
09-20-2009, 02:54 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
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This brings back memories. 
Check out my cam swap thread here. It should be very similar. I have pictures and tips on the hub removal and pushrod length check. I would measure the pushrods to be sure. I had to use Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150).
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...lp-needed.html
Check out my cam swap thread here. It should be very similar. I have pictures and tips on the hub removal and pushrod length check. I would measure the pushrods to be sure. I had to use Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150).http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...lp-needed.html
Last edited by rickneworleansla; 09-20-2009 at 02:58 PM.
09-20-2009, 04:39 PM
#19
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This brings back memories. Check out my cam swap thread here. It should be very similar. I have pictures and tips on the hub removal and pushrod length check. I would measure the pushrods to be sure. I had to use Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150).
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...lp-needed.html
Check out my cam swap thread here. It should be very similar. I have pictures and tips on the hub removal and pushrod length check. I would measure the pushrods to be sure. I had to use Trickflow Chromemoly Pushrods 7.150" (21407150).http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...lp-needed.html
I have looked at that link many times. Thanks for all the pictures and info.
Did you ever get any heads? If so what kind? If not maybe what kind?
Last edited by Weav's Vet; 09-20-2009 at 04:47 PM.
09-20-2009, 04:46 PM
#20
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Day 2
Making progress.......thanks to CF members Neat and mtwoolford the hub was a piece of cake.
I have to get a smaller gear puller for the crank sprocket. Mine is two large. All in all I think it's going well. A few stumbles but nothing major. I'm really impressed on how clean this engine is inside. I knew I had taken care of it for the almost two years I've had it but wasn't sure about the rest of it's life.
Here's today photos
http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/j...wap%20Day%202/
I have to get a smaller gear puller for the crank sprocket. Mine is two large. All in all I think it's going well. A few stumbles but nothing major. I'm really impressed on how clean this engine is inside. I knew I had taken care of it for the almost two years I've had it but wasn't sure about the rest of it's life.
Here's today photos
http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/j...wap%20Day%202/