l98tpi

Is there anyone that has had experience autoxing or tracking with a 700r4/4l60 with a full manual valve body? What is your opinion on this option? I'm having a heck of a time on the autox course with unpredictable shifts with my 4l60. Thanks for input.

Aardwolf

I'm sick of it too, I'm collecting parts now for this project over the winter. Manual valve body, plus ratchet shifter. You could use a shift kit to hold the gears though.

l98tpi

I have started to research the full manual valve body option and it sounds like the way to go. My trans just seems like it's possesed, it is all over the board with shift points, but the thing that is most aggrevating is it will sometimes bump the set rpm governor and still not shift until I let off the throttle.

rodj

Full man valve body may be overkill $$$ wise. A good shift kit should get you what you need.
Mine will hold any gear until engine blows up and I can manually downshift with full engine braking just like a stick car

JackDidley

Full manual VB is great but be careful buying a shifter. Ratchet shifters tend to be drag race designs. Easy to upshift. Not so easy downshift.

rodj

I have B&M Quicksilver ; knocks back as easy as it goes forward

Aardwolf

I was thinking of going with the VB without engine braking. I had a previous turbo car with an air ratchet shifting system that was awesome. I'm going to recreate that. My brother has that car so I can still copy my old brackets.

conv90

Ask to member Sliding.
I also had for a limited time a Full manual VB. The transgo shift kit using the "stick only" option.
I loved it for 6 months... then I started to hate it.
The car is in the gear you put. If you are at the traffic light in
4th gear, , when the traffic light become green you need to put it in first.
-Beppe-

l98tpi

Seldom does the car drive on the street, so I'm not concerned with shifting the gears up and down manually. My main concern is being able to have an instant shift when I move the selector from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd back to 1st. Also, if anyone knows, can I still use the stock shifter? I figure I can, but wasn't 100% positive.

rodj

My shift kit gives instant seamless shifts especially when WOT

Yes but you modify the gate so you can't shift into neutral under spirted driving

mseven

I have a TCI fm (w/comp. braking) in mine which gives it constant line pressure. This will feel like an increase in torque, as well as the obvious shift firmness. However, downshifting when using a F.M. for braking etc. is supposed to be very hard on trans parts.

l98tpi

MSEVEN, thanks for the info. I was checking out TCI's site on their trans and the fm valve body. When you do down shift, how much brake effect is there? Is the brake effect about the same as a standard automatic brake effect or a higher brake effect? Do you autox or track yours? If so, what is your opinion?

Aardwolf

Would you have rather went without engine braking?

Aardwolf

I decided to go with engine braking. I drove one without and it's a PITA. I know of two used TCI manual valve bodies without engine braking that are for sale if anyone needs to know PM me.

l98tpi

I don't know the characteristics of either the full manual with or without engine braking. I would think that the valve body with engine braking would be the one I would prefer as long as the brake effect isn't greater than the brake effect on a normal 700r4/4l60 trans, like I have now, stock. Just unsure on how these perform and want to get it right the first time.

Aardwolf

Without engine braking means it goes back to idle if you let off the throttle. For example your at 5,000 RPM and let off the gas a little, the RPM can drop, then when you press the gas the RPM has to get back up to 5,000 RPM again before the car will accelerate. It's like revving up all the time if you attempt street driving. To much on and off, I didn't like it at all.

l98tpi

Thanks for the insight, that answers my question, I definately want the braking option. I guess the only reason to get the non braking would be for Drag Racing.

rodj

All I know is my kit operates with the same effect as when I had the manual in the car ,lift off and the revs follow the road speed down as the engine slows the car
I use the engine braking at the drag strip to take some load off the brakes

mseven

No auto x or the like, just straight line. Depending on IAC controls etc. in the tune , it follows relatively tightly to rpm. Ardwolf is correct regarding lack of comp. braking having a "coast/release" effect. If using a v.body with no braking the engage/disengage will also be hard on a trans. The guy that built my trans recommended having braking for this reason (and street driving) and told me that downshifting will put a hurt on trans parts. The TCI v.body has been in the car for this season and has done well with no problems. The braking effect feels very similar to stock, what I can't tell you is how it (or your trans) will hold up with the type of racing you guys are doing.

REDC4CORVETTE

My RMVB is like driving a 4 speed without the clutch.
Your stock shifter can be setup to work but you have to push the button for second and just pull back for 3rd and push the button for 4th.
Somewear in the internet their is a idagram of how to cut the shifter .I use to have all the downloads but that was about 3 computers ago and I lost most of the info on how to do it.I do have the paper work for it if interested.Mine is a Monster trans and it has held alittle over 1000hp and held but the converter that is another storie.
The trans with that power doesn't always shift as fast as you need it to when in the 65 to 75oo rpm range.I run 2 truck trans coolers.