awolkenstein

Does this look right to y’all? Just did this before

C4Lover60

Hello, I did my 1994. I bought a 1995 inlet hose ( this eliminates the T-fitting and the hose connecting to the TB inlet side ), installed it. Then I bought the Heater Core outlet SOLID hose ( eliminating the T-fitting and hose to outlet side of TB) and installed it. I also purchased a set of TB rubber plugs ( labeled as such on package ) from Auto Parts store, where all the other rubber plugs are for various usage and different sizes, small clamps as well. This set up bypasses the TB, and also gives it a clean OEM look. I did this while I changed all my coolant system hoses and coolant, and new 180 deg thermostat. Hope that helps. Although I suppose your set up would work, it just doesn't look right, and you need to plug your TB fittings too. That was your question, hope my answer helps you.

awolkenstein

So my fan has an issue with kicking off. I want to install a switch for it to kick on at 210° and install a 180° thermostat. If you could provide part numbers or links for those heater hoses that would be awesome. Then I can just do the thermostat, switch, and hoses all at once and then just do a coolant flush from home

only other question is do I HAVE to plug the throttle body ports that the coolant hoses came off from? Wouldn’t it just allow cooler air to pass through

C4Lover60

Hi, the fan(s) I believe are programmed to kick on at around 212 deg, and also at around 238 or so. This of course, would be without having A/C on, and on their own. If you feel the 212 mark is not working, you can swap the relays around to see if you may have a bad one. They are easy enough, located on RH side engine compartment next to radiator, side by side. I always have my A/C going just to have a fan blowing, and it helps alot. Also utilizes the a/c functions to keep it working good. You also may want to check your Coolant Reservoir cap to see if it is a 15 psi cap. When I bought my 94 a while back, I had cooling issues immediately, an easy look for that was the cap, which was a 16 psi installed. I replaced with the proper 15 psi, and cooling issue went away to normal, would not overheat in traffic or idling anymore...got lucky there.
When you change out the hoses, remember to cover your Optispark up, and dont let it get dowsed from coolant above it. The return heater hose will dump alot of coolant. Yes, you should plug up the TB ports. Although no more coolant will pass through there, the openings are irrelevant for air cooling, and debris or other things can make there way in there. You can pick the plugs up at an Auto Parts store, they have them specifically for the TB. I don't know what coolant you use or have in there, but I use the OEM Green, from Zerex. ( 50/50 mix) I also removed the Engine Knock Sensors to dump coolant from engine block. If you can't do the KS's, just flush out best you can with distilled water, have heater on and max hot while running engine.
The Inlet hose I used was bought at Parts store, and don't have a p/n for it. But just order one for a 1995 vette. As for the other hoses, I bought from Corvette Central. P/N's are:
454012 Top Wtr. pump to Htr. box
454487 Bottom Wtr. pump to Htr. box
244425 Reservoir Fill Cap 15 psi.
244504 Surge Tank Inlet hose ( J hose )
244422 Coolant Recovery Reservoir Tank hose
244517 180 deg. Thermostat ( get new o-ring too )
Well, just to say, this is only what I've done to mine, and everyone has a different situation or issue. There are many great members here with a more vast amount of knowledge, that I have learned from as well. Oh, and you may also want to inspect the air dam inlet area for any debris obstruction, as these cars suck in the cooling air for the radiator through the bottom. So itis very easy to accumulate debris and maybe a big item, such as a plastic bag on the road, and now it will overheat from no air cooling. And clean the fins too, being careful of the Opti as well when using water hose. Well, thats my advise to you, hope this helps you.