1992 six speed couple with a mcleoud superstreet pro clutch and SMF fly wheel
12-11-2009, 09:29 PM
#1
1992 six speed couple with a mcleoud superstreet pro clutch and SMF fly wheel
Does anyone have this set up or a similar set up? Im trying to figure out if my clutch engage ment is normal or if it is acting up.
I broke in the clutch and flywheel exactly as described in the book.
Here is the deal:
When i let the clutch out slow or slip it a bit to do a smooth take off from say a light or stop sign the car shutters much like a unsurfaced flywheel. the only time it doesnt it do it is if it its released kinda quick or decent rpms when trying to slip it.
Is this normal because it is a more aggressive set up or is something wrong?
I had probems with the clutch fork rubbing the pressure plate because it was not installed properlly by the shop and it still does that on occasion. Is something wrong here? any info is helpful.
thanks
I broke in the clutch and flywheel exactly as described in the book.
Here is the deal:
When i let the clutch out slow or slip it a bit to do a smooth take off from say a light or stop sign the car shutters much like a unsurfaced flywheel. the only time it doesnt it do it is if it its released kinda quick or decent rpms when trying to slip it.
Is this normal because it is a more aggressive set up or is something wrong?
I had probems with the clutch fork rubbing the pressure plate because it was not installed properlly by the shop and it still does that on occasion. Is something wrong here? any info is helpful.
thanks
12-11-2009, 09:49 PM
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Columbia Maryland
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Sounds to me like you are getting clutch "Chatter". Usually this happens when grease or oil or some other contaminate gets on the clutch disc fiber and causes it to not engage very smoothly. When you drop the clutch quickly, you are taking up the slack and the disc doesn't really have time to chatter or jump all over the place, there are times when you just can't drive like this such as bumper to bumper stop and go traffic.
If the tech who installed the set up wasn't careful, its easy to contaminate the disc with greasy hands or lube from who knows where, I've see tech glob grease on the throwout collar and the splined impute shaft and boy what a mess that stuff makes when it gets hot and slings itself off.....
If the shop somehow did not install the fork correctly, JMHO: I think its time to find a better shop with a working knowledge of a Corvette.
I'd almost bet the disc is beyond repair if it got douched with grease/oil.
Could even be the front seal in your trans going south spewing gear oil on your set up causing the chatter.
Doesn't sound normal to me and not something that should happen to any clutch whether stock or performance.
Good luck my friend,
Gibby
If the tech who installed the set up wasn't careful, its easy to contaminate the disc with greasy hands or lube from who knows where, I've see tech glob grease on the throwout collar and the splined impute shaft and boy what a mess that stuff makes when it gets hot and slings itself off.....
If the shop somehow did not install the fork correctly, JMHO: I think its time to find a better shop with a working knowledge of a Corvette.
I'd almost bet the disc is beyond repair if it got douched with grease/oil.
Could even be the front seal in your trans going south spewing gear oil on your set up causing the chatter.
Doesn't sound normal to me and not something that should happen to any clutch whether stock or performance.
Good luck my friend,
Gibby
12-12-2009, 12:13 AM
#3
Sounds to me like you are getting clutch "Chatter". Usually this happens when grease or oil or some other contaminate gets on the clutch disc fiber and causes it to not engage very smoothly. When you drop the clutch quickly, you are taking up the slack and the disc doesn't really have time to chatter or jump all over the place, there are times when you just can't drive like this such as bumper to bumper stop and go traffic.
If the tech who installed the set up wasn't careful, its easy to contaminate the disc with greasy hands or lube from who knows where, I've see tech glob grease on the throwout collar and the splined impute shaft and boy what a mess that stuff makes when it gets hot and slings itself off.....
If the shop somehow did not install the fork correctly, JMHO: I think its time to find a better shop with a working knowledge of a Corvette.
I'd almost bet the disc is beyond repair if it got douched with grease/oil.
Could even be the front seal in your trans going south spewing gear oil on your set up causing the chatter.
Doesn't sound normal to me and not something that should happen to any clutch whether stock or performance.
Good luck my friend,
Gibby
If the tech who installed the set up wasn't careful, its easy to contaminate the disc with greasy hands or lube from who knows where, I've see tech glob grease on the throwout collar and the splined impute shaft and boy what a mess that stuff makes when it gets hot and slings itself off.....
If the shop somehow did not install the fork correctly, JMHO: I think its time to find a better shop with a working knowledge of a Corvette.
I'd almost bet the disc is beyond repair if it got douched with grease/oil.
Could even be the front seal in your trans going south spewing gear oil on your set up causing the chatter.
Doesn't sound normal to me and not something that should happen to any clutch whether stock or performance.
Good luck my friend,
Gibby
12-12-2009, 04:58 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
what type of material is the clutch disc composed of ? That alone can make a big difference. Also the clamping pressure of the clutch pressure plate can make a big difference in (perceived) drivebility.
You replaced the stock dual mass flywheel with its built in dampening with a single mass flywheel with no dampening; also the (comparatively) mild clamping force of the stock unit has been replaced with an aftermarket unit of (probably) considerably greater clamping force.
I don't know if your new clutch disc even has a sprung hub (which provides some minimal dampening).
In the past I've run a series of RAM clutches with metallic facing on the clutch disc and 3000 lb or 3200 lb pressure plates (very heavy duty; the 10.4 inch 3000 lb plate was quite driveable on the street; the 11.0 inch 3200 lb plate was way too heavy), both gave outstanding service. Each one came with a big red sheet of paper warning "NOT FOR USE ON STREET EXPECT CHATTER" .
What I'm trying to say is that your new clutch may require a new driving style and it may not be reasonable to expect the former stock clutch compliance.
I'm at a loss to even speculate as to the cause or effect of a misaligned clutch fork except to say that the new clutch will never function properly until this issue is resolved. Could it be as simple as a worn out mounting stud; or would a new mounting of a new length be necessary to restore proper geometry ?
please let everyone know what you find out and how you resolve this situation.
p.s. metallic linings are extremely tolerant of oil and grease; organic linings are definitely not.
You replaced the stock dual mass flywheel with its built in dampening with a single mass flywheel with no dampening; also the (comparatively) mild clamping force of the stock unit has been replaced with an aftermarket unit of (probably) considerably greater clamping force.
I don't know if your new clutch disc even has a sprung hub (which provides some minimal dampening).
In the past I've run a series of RAM clutches with metallic facing on the clutch disc and 3000 lb or 3200 lb pressure plates (very heavy duty; the 10.4 inch 3000 lb plate was quite driveable on the street; the 11.0 inch 3200 lb plate was way too heavy), both gave outstanding service. Each one came with a big red sheet of paper warning "NOT FOR USE ON STREET EXPECT CHATTER" .
What I'm trying to say is that your new clutch may require a new driving style and it may not be reasonable to expect the former stock clutch compliance.
I'm at a loss to even speculate as to the cause or effect of a misaligned clutch fork except to say that the new clutch will never function properly until this issue is resolved. Could it be as simple as a worn out mounting stud; or would a new mounting of a new length be necessary to restore proper geometry ?
please let everyone know what you find out and how you resolve this situation.
p.s. metallic linings are extremely tolerant of oil and grease; organic linings are definitely not.
12-12-2009, 09:12 AM
#5
Race Director
I had the street twin and I similar issue. If I recall it went away after driving the car for a few hundred miles but I never liked the On / OFF switch characteristics of the clutch. Difficult to let it slip.
12-12-2009, 09:13 AM
#6
Race Director
how many miles do you have on the clutch? It's used now so you can't take it back. I would drive it some more if you have almost no miles on it.
12-12-2009, 02:43 PM
#7
12-12-2009, 02:44 PM
#8
what type of material is the clutch disc composed of ? That alone can make a big difference. Also the clamping pressure of the clutch pressure plate can make a big difference in (perceived) drivebility.
You replaced the stock dual mass flywheel with its built in dampening with a single mass flywheel with no dampening; also the (comparatively) mild clamping force of the stock unit has been replaced with an aftermarket unit of (probably) considerably greater clamping force.
I don't know if your new clutch disc even has a sprung hub (which provides some minimal dampening).
In the past I've run a series of RAM clutches with metallic facing on the clutch disc and 3000 lb or 3200 lb pressure plates (very heavy duty; the 10.4 inch 3000 lb plate was quite driveable on the street; the 11.0 inch 3200 lb plate was way too heavy), both gave outstanding service. Each one came with a big red sheet of paper warning "NOT FOR USE ON STREET EXPECT CHATTER" .
What I'm trying to say is that your new clutch may require a new driving style and it may not be reasonable to expect the former stock clutch compliance.
I'm at a loss to even speculate as to the cause or effect of a misaligned clutch fork except to say that the new clutch will never function properly until this issue is resolved. Could it be as simple as a worn out mounting stud; or would a new mounting of a new length be necessary to restore proper geometry ?
please let everyone know what you find out and how you resolve this situation.
p.s. metallic linings are extremely tolerant of oil and grease; organic linings are definitely not.
You replaced the stock dual mass flywheel with its built in dampening with a single mass flywheel with no dampening; also the (comparatively) mild clamping force of the stock unit has been replaced with an aftermarket unit of (probably) considerably greater clamping force.
I don't know if your new clutch disc even has a sprung hub (which provides some minimal dampening).
In the past I've run a series of RAM clutches with metallic facing on the clutch disc and 3000 lb or 3200 lb pressure plates (very heavy duty; the 10.4 inch 3000 lb plate was quite driveable on the street; the 11.0 inch 3200 lb plate was way too heavy), both gave outstanding service. Each one came with a big red sheet of paper warning "NOT FOR USE ON STREET EXPECT CHATTER" .
What I'm trying to say is that your new clutch may require a new driving style and it may not be reasonable to expect the former stock clutch compliance.
I'm at a loss to even speculate as to the cause or effect of a misaligned clutch fork except to say that the new clutch will never function properly until this issue is resolved. Could it be as simple as a worn out mounting stud; or would a new mounting of a new length be necessary to restore proper geometry ?
please let everyone know what you find out and how you resolve this situation.
p.s. metallic linings are extremely tolerant of oil and grease; organic linings are definitely not.
12-15-2009, 10:07 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 1999
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Though it gets a LOT better with lots of driving.
12-16-2009, 11:39 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
My street twin was smooth as glass. It was easily 90% as streetable as the stock unit, maybe more. There was no ON/OFF type of feel to it. If you dropped it, it would hit the drive train like a truck, but for daily driving there was no issues with it. My girl could drive the car in stop/go traffic, start out from a stop while on a hill, etc...
There was no chatter, nothing. It was a great clutch, and I really liked it. I eventually took it out and sold it because I kept breaking driveline components aggressively drag racing the car, but the clutch was amazingly streetable considering it will handle 900+ RWHP.
There was no chatter, nothing. It was a great clutch, and I really liked it. I eventually took it out and sold it because I kept breaking driveline components aggressively drag racing the car, but the clutch was amazingly streetable considering it will handle 900+ RWHP.
12-16-2009, 09:05 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 1999
Location: Bowling Green KY
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My street twin was smooth as glass. It was easily 90% as streetable as the stock unit, maybe more. There was no ON/OFF type of feel to it. If you dropped it, it would hit the drive train like a truck, but for daily driving there was no issues with it. My girl could drive the car in stop/go traffic, start out from a stop while on a hill, etc...
There was no chatter, nothing. It was a great clutch, and I really liked it. I eventually took it out and sold it because I kept breaking driveline components aggressively drag racing the car, but the clutch was amazingly streetable considering it will handle 900+ RWHP.
There was no chatter, nothing. It was a great clutch, and I really liked it. I eventually took it out and sold it because I kept breaking driveline components aggressively drag racing the car, but the clutch was amazingly streetable considering it will handle 900+ RWHP.
12-17-2009, 11:22 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
I don't really understand how it can act so differently in different cars. All of us with the twin are using the same friction material and pressure plate, they should all act the same. Lcvette has 4 or 5 C4 Corvettes between him and his father, and 2 or 3 of them have the McLeod twin. His are smooth as glass, just like mine was. tpi421vet uses a twin as well, again smooth as glass.
I wonder if quality control issues are plaquing some of us again. McLeod had the problem with hydraulics awhile ago and a decade ago they used the public as a test market for LSX clutches. My point is their quality control is suspect at best. I wonder if those who are experiencing chatter have gotten the wrong friction disks or something? Now that B&M owns them, I wonder what changes have taken place? I know very few, if any, of the same people work there; maybe those issues have been resolved in the last year or so since B&M took over?
Anyone have the chatter issue with a twin that is new enough to be sold while B&M has been running the show at McLeod?
I wonder if quality control issues are plaquing some of us again. McLeod had the problem with hydraulics awhile ago and a decade ago they used the public as a test market for LSX clutches. My point is their quality control is suspect at best. I wonder if those who are experiencing chatter have gotten the wrong friction disks or something? Now that B&M owns them, I wonder what changes have taken place? I know very few, if any, of the same people work there; maybe those issues have been resolved in the last year or so since B&M took over?
Anyone have the chatter issue with a twin that is new enough to be sold while B&M has been running the show at McLeod?
12-18-2009, 02:21 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
the flywheel must be properly surfaced of course.
However, when installing the flywheel, the flywheel runout must be checked. I installed one flywheel only to find it had 30 or 40 thousandths runout which was traced to a little bitty burr on the stud installed in the crankshaft . once that little burr was removed it all went together properly; however that amount of runout is not discernable to the naked eye but it would be determental to clutch operation.
However, when installing the flywheel, the flywheel runout must be checked. I installed one flywheel only to find it had 30 or 40 thousandths runout which was traced to a little bitty burr on the stud installed in the crankshaft . once that little burr was removed it all went together properly; however that amount of runout is not discernable to the naked eye but it would be determental to clutch operation.
