thethrillofspeed

For being the easiest valve covers to get to those are the hardest valve covers to remove...and I get to do it again. I have an 85 Vette with only 22K miles on it and the valve cover gaskets were leaking. Under the valve cover it looked like a brand new motor. Removed the valve covers, removed GM's cement and rock hard cork gaskets. Cleaned everything up really good. Bought new Fel-pro PermaDryPlus gaskets VS12869T, installed them dry according to the directions. Put everything back together today and it has horrible leaks. It was smoking so bad I was ready for it to catch fire and frankly I would have let it burn.

Help! What did I do wrong?!?!

jeffp1167

use rubber gaskets

Kubs

I replaced mine with rubber when I did my cam. No leaks at all and its been over a year of hard driving!

samsonb

I thought those Felpro Permadry Plus were the rubber gaskets?

Frizlefrak

How tight did you tighten the bolts? And in what sequence? Did you clean the head and valve cover surface thoroughly before installing them?

The Fel-Pro Perma-dry are rubber, and should seal easily. I put them on my 84 about 5 years ago and not a drop since (after two sets of cork that sealed for about a year each). You can even remove them and reuse them. Their one piece oil pan gasket is also a Godsend....

I would use a small mirror (any auto parts store....like a dental mirror with an extendable handle) and a flashlight and inspect every inch of each valve cover and see if one of the gaskets wasn't sitting correctly on the head surface. You should have ZERO leaks with these. I suspect one is distorted somewhere or a piece of the old cork gasket or other debris is distorting the seal.

[edit] Did you check the valve cover to see if perhaps it is the culprit and not the gasket? Maybe one of them is warped?

Joe C

- straight from the horses mouth...

http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...over/Permadry/

Joe C

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lltrevino

Did you make sure nothing was being pinched between covers, and heads? Did you reinstall the load spreaders underneath the nuts? Did you torque to correct torque rating ( I always go just snug by finger, than 88 INCH POUNDS)? also, just to be sure, since you are having problems, run a straight edge on the valve cover mounting face.

thethrillofspeed

Thanks for the replies. The valve covers and head were completely clean with 100% of the old valve cover gasket removed...I spent hours removing everything. I have the stock valve covers, but did not check them to ensure they were straight. I went in a circle pattern tightening the four bolts bit by bit.

Good idea with the mirror. I will do that tonight. If I can't find any problems I will remove the valve cover and check to ensure it is straight.

I would not call these gaskets rubber. They are very firm, you can hold on to one side and hold the gasket level...kinda like a soft plastic.

aklim

My 91 leaked a little less so I will have to take out the driver side and see if I can get it to seal better. Not sure why. Changed to brand new valve covers and new permadry gaskets but it still leaks.

redrose

used cork for years on those 'perimeter bolt' covers with no leaks, IF:
1) covers not warped (cross-check with two strings, strings touch at center both over/under) 2) no 'high volume' oil pump 3) cyl head oil returns not clogged 4) cover bolts NOT over-tight OR tightened in wrong sequence (start all four bolts only a bit, but tighten the two lower ones first, then the two uppers)

BrianCunningham

last time I had a leak like that, the valve cover was cracked (not the vette)

mazdaverx7

i just went through the same thing on friday..i used the perma dry gaskets and did not care for them because they would not seal. the first initial fault was my own, as i pinched a spark plug wire in between the gasket and the valve cover. i had everything clean and prepped properly and they once again leaked. at any rate, i ended up using moroso silicone gaskets. the moroso gasketes were very nice, with a metal inlaid frame. the ribs on the fel pro gaskets just did not go so well with the raised hump sealing surface design on the small block head design. if the head had a machined finish, the gaskets woul be perfect for sealing. i had to use bolts that were a few threads longer as the moroso's were a touch too thick. i torqued the bolts in a criss cross pattern and i have no more leaks. i'm extremely pleased with the gaskets. i can get you a prt number or ship a set to you. they were like $35 for the pair.

aklim

Please post part number.

pmihaltian

I used Fel-Pro silicone gaskets and they worked very well. However, during my first shot at this I pinched two plug wires under the valve cover which ruined the wires. Of course I had already torqued the covers down. Fortunately I did not warp the covers in the process.

I found that it is best to remove the wires from the plugs (mark & number them with tape) before you reinstall the covers. Also, make sure that you do not over torque the covers. They only get about 8 ft. lbs. of torque (check the manual for exact torque specs)

pmihaltian

PM sent

mazdaverx7

ok, here are a couple pics of the part number and packaging for reference:

samsonb

When I did mine. I pulled the spark plug wires off the distributor so I wouldn't have to worry about pinching one.

nutz4c4

Do your heads have studs in them or does it use bolts? Examine the area around the studs if you have them, there are sometimes very small spacers there that you will have to remove. Look at the valve cover in this area also as you may find them stuck to the cover.

samsonb

I used the Felpro permadry plus on my 89 with no problems. Though, mine has center bolt valve covers which are supposed to be less leak prone compared to the perimeter bolt covers.

The good thing about the later years is GM used rubber gaskets from the factory. So, when I pulled the covers off, all I had to do was clean up the oil. The Throttle Body also had rubber gaskets as well. Which made it easier to clean since I didn't have to also scrap old gasket off.