Bought the 7 piece weather seal kit
#1
Bought the 7 piece weather seal kit
How hard is it to install, and how much time should I set aside?
Any special tools required? Any tips would be much appriciated.
Thanks,
Doug
96 C4
Any special tools required? Any tips would be much appriciated.
Thanks,
Doug
96 C4
#2
Safety Car
I talked to the local body shop...they are going to do it for me. Said it would be about 2 hours for them to do, and I know it will be correct when finished.
#3
Biggest thing....complete removal of the old rubber and cleaning the tracks that its mounted in. Its glued, so expect to fight. Pull out what you can, then use a dremmel tool and small wire wheel to brush out the remaining rubber and glue residue. The tracks MUST be near sterile in order for the new to seat inside and seal. This is the hardest part.
On the A pillar, around the front glass, lay the new rubber out around the glass. There were a pair of screws at each end, and 1 at each top corner. be sure to remove those and TRY to get the hole open and a replacement screw, but its not critical.
Start installing in the top area corners and place the ends where they should be, so there will not be 4" of excess at the ends to deal with...because you can;t..
Go across the top first, seating one edge in place and then pressing the other edge down and IN using a bondo-spreader about 4-6" wide. Do not use a tool that can puncture the weather strips skin.
I only apply small strips of 3M weather strip adheasive every few inches, or less. The stuff is so difficult to remove and its very unforgiving once the rubber has been set in the glue. The rubber tends to mold itself in place when the top is put on or when doors close..etc.
Have a small punch or similar tool to insert thru the screw holes in the rubber to help find the screw hole in the frame. The corners will take a little adjustment, so ALWAYS do a "dry fit" to make sure and to see how to adjust BEFORE going back with any glue.
The roof panels can be the hardest of all because they are deep pieces that can be tough to press all the way down into the track. As long as the track rails are clean, it can be done. Again, watch where the ends are so there won;t be anything left over and do NOT stretch the rubber to get it thinner and easier to insert...thats tempting and easy, but you get in trouble that way and it'll never fit right.
Set of bondo spreaders.
Dremmel tool or some other small (1") wire wheel to clean tracks.
1/8" punch or similar tool
some patience.
be prepared to make a mess with the cleaning the tracks. The bits of old rubber go everywhere like dust, but it has to be cleaned.
The B pillar is easy, and the hatch rubber usually fits right in since it has no glue, or very little.
Door panels can be challenging but that all depends on what kind of shape the panels are in.
The first time the top is set in place after new A pillar strip, you may need help to press down while the bolts are started. It will mold itself in after being mounted the first time.
I always apply a generous amount of gel weather strip lube.
Amoure-all makes a gel and many guys like to use a product from the pool store thats made to protect rubber seals and weather strip in or around pools and spas. Its some kind of gel or silicone grease, anyway those that use it swear by it.. cheap too.
#4
Ask about their warranty on their work...
#5
Safety Car
I THINK they've done a few of these before mine...
I have a few other things for them to do while it is there...
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Database Error Indiana
Posts: 16,615
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I dont see how they can do it in 2 hours. Doors and hatch, no problem. I spent at least half an hour cleaning sticky crap off the B pillar gasket retainer, then I had to repaint it. The A pillar geasket is still in the spare room. The original is still Ok, for now.
#7
Thanks
This can be a little intimidating up front, but when you approach this armed with a couple tips and tools, its cake.
Biggest thing....complete removal of the old rubber and cleaning the tracks that its mounted in. Its glued, so expect to fight. Pull out what you can, then use a dremmel tool and small wire wheel to brush out the remaining rubber and glue residue. The tracks MUST be near sterile in order for the new to seat inside and seal. This is the hardest part.
On the A pillar, around the front glass, lay the new rubber out around the glass. There were a pair of screws at each end, and 1 at each top corner. be sure to remove those and TRY to get the hole open and a replacement screw, but its not critical.
Start installing in the top area corners and place the ends where they should be, so there will not be 4" of excess at the ends to deal with...because you can;t..
Go across the top first, seating one edge in place and then pressing the other edge down and IN using a bondo-spreader about 4-6" wide. Do not use a tool that can puncture the weather strips skin.
I only apply small strips of 3M weather strip adheasive every few inches, or less. The stuff is so difficult to remove and its very unforgiving once the rubber has been set in the glue. The rubber tends to mold itself in place when the top is put on or when doors close..etc.
Have a small punch or similar tool to insert thru the screw holes in the rubber to help find the screw hole in the frame. The corners will take a little adjustment, so ALWAYS do a "dry fit" to make sure and to see how to adjust BEFORE going back with any glue.
The roof panels can be the hardest of all because they are deep pieces that can be tough to press all the way down into the track. As long as the track rails are clean, it can be done. Again, watch where the ends are so there won;t be anything left over and do NOT stretch the rubber to get it thinner and easier to insert...thats tempting and easy, but you get in trouble that way and it'll never fit right.
Set of bondo spreaders.
Dremmel tool or some other small (1") wire wheel to clean tracks.
1/8" punch or similar tool
some patience.
be prepared to make a mess with the cleaning the tracks. The bits of old rubber go everywhere like dust, but it has to be cleaned.
The B pillar is easy, and the hatch rubber usually fits right in since it has no glue, or very little.
Door panels can be challenging but that all depends on what kind of shape the panels are in.
The first time the top is set in place after new A pillar strip, you may need help to press down while the bolts are started. It will mold itself in after being mounted the first time.
I always apply a generous amount of gel weather strip lube.
Amoure-all makes a gel and many guys like to use a product from the pool store thats made to protect rubber seals and weather strip in or around pools and spas. Its some kind of gel or silicone grease, anyway those that use it swear by it.. cheap too.
Biggest thing....complete removal of the old rubber and cleaning the tracks that its mounted in. Its glued, so expect to fight. Pull out what you can, then use a dremmel tool and small wire wheel to brush out the remaining rubber and glue residue. The tracks MUST be near sterile in order for the new to seat inside and seal. This is the hardest part.
On the A pillar, around the front glass, lay the new rubber out around the glass. There were a pair of screws at each end, and 1 at each top corner. be sure to remove those and TRY to get the hole open and a replacement screw, but its not critical.
Start installing in the top area corners and place the ends where they should be, so there will not be 4" of excess at the ends to deal with...because you can;t..
Go across the top first, seating one edge in place and then pressing the other edge down and IN using a bondo-spreader about 4-6" wide. Do not use a tool that can puncture the weather strips skin.
I only apply small strips of 3M weather strip adheasive every few inches, or less. The stuff is so difficult to remove and its very unforgiving once the rubber has been set in the glue. The rubber tends to mold itself in place when the top is put on or when doors close..etc.
Have a small punch or similar tool to insert thru the screw holes in the rubber to help find the screw hole in the frame. The corners will take a little adjustment, so ALWAYS do a "dry fit" to make sure and to see how to adjust BEFORE going back with any glue.
The roof panels can be the hardest of all because they are deep pieces that can be tough to press all the way down into the track. As long as the track rails are clean, it can be done. Again, watch where the ends are so there won;t be anything left over and do NOT stretch the rubber to get it thinner and easier to insert...thats tempting and easy, but you get in trouble that way and it'll never fit right.
Set of bondo spreaders.
Dremmel tool or some other small (1") wire wheel to clean tracks.
1/8" punch or similar tool
some patience.
be prepared to make a mess with the cleaning the tracks. The bits of old rubber go everywhere like dust, but it has to be cleaned.
The B pillar is easy, and the hatch rubber usually fits right in since it has no glue, or very little.
Door panels can be challenging but that all depends on what kind of shape the panels are in.
The first time the top is set in place after new A pillar strip, you may need help to press down while the bolts are started. It will mold itself in after being mounted the first time.
I always apply a generous amount of gel weather strip lube.
Amoure-all makes a gel and many guys like to use a product from the pool store thats made to protect rubber seals and weather strip in or around pools and spas. Its some kind of gel or silicone grease, anyway those that use it swear by it.. cheap too.
Great advise! Thanks for taking the time to provide very detailed instructions.
Doug
#8
Austin
What do they charge to do this type of work? I am just right down the road.
Thanks,
Doug
#9
Safety Car
#10
Safety Car
I'd guess they can do it faster because they have 2 guys doing it that have done it hundreds of times before...practice makes perfect
#12
I'd bet they were not talking the 7 piece set...Even 4 guys...no way. Not done right.
#14
Drifting
On my 87 the A and B pillar w/s was not glued in. Only the ends had some glue on them. The tracks looked as if they never had had glue in them, so that's how I replaced that w/s. The targa top w/s was a different story, glued from back to front. That took some time.