ICANTDR55

Ok guys to get right to the point my lt1 spun a rod bearing and now I have to rebuild it. Since I have to pull the engine I want to go back with a setup that will produce 500 to 600 hp at the crank. Here's my old setup.

Ported heads and intake
lt4 hot cam
1.6 rr
hedman 1/58 lg tube headers
tune from pcm for less
block bored .30 over

Here's the setup I want to go with.

afr 210s
610 lift cam
ported lt4 intake
52mm tb
30lb injectors
pcm for less tune
eagle stroker crank(383)

thats what I have for now any suggestions or ideas? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

BrianCunningham

600 crank hp right?

will this be street driven?

w/o FI it will be hard to do on the street.

ICANTDR55

yes to the crank and this will be a weekend driver and do you mean fuel injection (FI)?

bobmic93

rwhp ? You will need forced induction. I see lots of guys on 383 guys on here pushing 420 rwhp which is like 525 chp. With those huge heads and cam you might see 550 chp. I would be concerned about losing low end grunt with the set up your talking about. Obviously it should really kick *** on 2nd half of the track.

cv67

You can use those heads add some compression to it and use a solid roller cam, shouldnt be hard to get 550 out of it. Youll need just the right grind of cam and a reeeal good tuner. Youll be spinning the pee out of it to make the power, too. Mail order tiune wont cut it on this one youll have to leave it with a tuner for a few days to play with it.'single plane intake with aftermarket F.I. will smoke the LT4 intake.
Id be not so focused on a hp # but more on how you truly want it to perform/intended useage.; to build a reliable motor that will see 7-7500 will require premium bottom end parts, machining shaft rockers nice lifters etc. Spent 12k doing that with a 350. Smart? no. Sit down list some parameters and go from there, sounds like youve started. At part throttle/cruise @ lower speeds the car isnt going to be fun to drive.

The Green Rocket

At 600 hp crankshaft you will need larger injectors. Assuming a .5 brake specific fuel consumption (a decent number for a n/a engine), if you ran the injectors at 43.5 psi and a 90% duty cycle = 42 lb/hr at 80% duty cycle = 46 lb/hr. To balance out the intake flow at 600 crank hp you should step up the header size (I am assuming that the LG in your description means long tube?, because you will need long tubes). As a weekend only car have you considered a solid roller and just run the rpms higher?

Thomas

RedLS1GTO

My track car is just short of 500bhp with the stock LT4 block, 383ci Eagle rotating assy, stock heads (with work done), and a 750cfm carb. It will also turn 7k+ RPM all day long. 500+ can be done with a stock block but it is going to take a LOT of $$$ to build something with that power that will stay in one piece if you go the N/A route. On a similar note, I can't imagine driving the track car on the street for any extended period of time with that engine setup.

mnstrlt1

boost...

BacknBlack

If you go with a solid roller cam and the AFR 227s you would be very, very close to 600hp if not right at it.

COPO

ks5shooter

Dont forget you gonna need a rearend that will handle the ponies.Dana 44 is in order

neat

Blower/turbo is expensive, doing it on motor alone is really expensive too.

Build a nice 383 with good pistons and a decent crank/rods; then put a little nitrous on it.

I built a nitrous ready short block for my car for about $2500. It makes 415 RWHP on motor, and will take up to a 300 HP shot of nitrous. The cam is reasonable, and the car is easy to drive on the street.

JAKE

Here's what I think:

GM High Tech Performance magazine made in the area of 525 HP at around 6500 at the crank using a CompCams XFI280 HR and AFR 195 Eliminator heads. Using that same engine, a 383, some TrickFlows made close to that. Tests are on their website.

To move from 525 to 600 is going to call for more cam (probably a SR), bigger heads, 58mm TB and higher RPMS (somewhere near 7K or more). BTW, I'd go 396 CID.

You could use GMHTP specs as a template and go up from there.

Jake

cv67

Building a 500/525 hp street motor is easy to do these days. Getting to that 550-600 mark is a whole different story you may not like driving it on the street, maintenance etc.
Again dont focus so much on a #.Build it for your driving style and budget. Lots of 600hp dyno queens that run 12s out there.

Pwnage1337

LSX SWAP! if you're gonna be pouring money into it anyways..

Weav's Vet

Here's 505.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ams/index.html

or, you could buy one ready to go

http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html

chevyforever

TPiS has built a 383 cui LT1 with 553 hp N/A:

http://www.tpis.com/pages/383lt1

and even a 402 cui LT1 with 603 hp N/A:

http://www.tpis.com/pages/402lt1

But I'm in doubt if this one is realy streetable...

Regards
Rico

drmrman

Boost
x2

Saving for a procharger.

mike100

plan on 400+ cubic inch motor or it is going to get expensive and exotic on a 350 to get to 600 hp (crank or otherwise).

chevyforever

This would be a stout (and expensive) foundation for a N/A high horsepower LT1:

SBC LT1 PRO BILLET STROKER SHORT BLOCKS 396 398 408 410

Regards
Rico