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Old 05-10-2010, 11:10 AM   #1
jakers
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Default Engine has been sitting 14 months. Has not turned over... Pre-Oil Question?

March 2009 -Take the car for a 200 mile trip. Discovered the rear hubs were shot. Bought parts and equipment to do R&R of rear suspension. The project grew to include drive train. Replacing universal joints, poly-bushings, clutch slave cylinder, hydraulics, beam plates and possibly a new flywheel. BTW, this is all Black Harley Man's fault! Working with limited time and limited budget. The car is still on the Race Ramps/Jack(Front) and Jack stands (Rear). Yes, I do miss driving the car!

May 2010 - The good news is I am back and focused on completing the jobs at hand. Dana 44 is back in the car with new bushings. Universal joints/half shafts, rear knuckles, and hubs are done. Brakes put on the car yesterday! I also installed the proper pilot bearing to be used with the MN6. (Note, that the rental tool from Advanced Autoparts worked like a charm. I had previously tried the packed grease method and that was a complete failure and only created a mess to clean up.)

As I get closer to getting this car back on the road after 14 months I am pondering the start up of the car. I am assuming that every drop of oil has had time to find its way back into the engine oil pan.

Q. Should I place a small amount of oil into each cylinders through the spark plug holes before restarting a engine?
Q. If so, how should I go about it?
Q. How much oil should be placed in each cylinder?
Q. Best Method for getting it into the cylinder etc?

Thanks!

Last edited by jakers; 05-10-2010 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:22 AM   #2
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Make sure the battery is charged and fire it up.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:24 AM   #3
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I would be more worried about the stale fuel.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:26 AM   #4
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Yikes! Fourteen months is a long time to allow an engine to sit, but I think that you're on the right track. First start with fresh, clean oil and filter change. Then remove all the spark plugs, squirt some oil into each combustion chamber, and turn the engine over by hand using the dampener bolt at least two complete revolutions to make sure that the rings were free in all eight cylinders.

Next I would align #1 cylinder at TDC, remove the distributor and use a pre-oiling device attached to a power tool to spin the oil pump to pre-lube the system. Keep spinning the oil pump until you see coming out of the rockers on each bank. Re-install the distributor.

Use some starting fluid on the air intake housing and start up the engine. Check your oil pressure, water temperature, and RPM. Keep the engine running until it reaches operating temperature. You should be good to go then after re-setting/checking the initial advance. Good luck!
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:02 PM   #5
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My experience. I tore off the rear suspension on April of 2006. It has been sitting on jack stands for the last four years with no money or time to get her fixed. I started working on her a few weeks ago. I charged the battery checked oil and fluids. I then turned the key and she fired right up. Not bad for a 19 year old car.
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:16 PM   #6
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Pull injector fuses, crank until good oil pressure is achieved, install fuses and fire her up.
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
I would be more worried about the stale fuel.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TAZO View Post
My experience. I tore off the rear suspension on April of 2006. It has been sitting on jack stands for the last four years with no money or time to get her fixed. I started working on her a few weeks ago. I charged the battery checked oil and fluids. I then turned the key and she fired right up. Not bad for a 19 year old car.
Very surprised. Last december the snowblower gas was about 2 yrs old and didn't even smell like gas anymore.
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Very surprised. Last december the snowblower gas was about 2 yrs old and didn't even smell like gas anymore.
I put some stabil fuel in her when I stored it. I was very suprised too. I was expecting it not to turn over. Someone upstairs was watching over her.
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:56 PM   #9
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It's an LT1 so your oiling method won't work. Starting fluid is entirely unecessary.

Just start it!

Eddie

Quote:
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Next I would align #1 cylinder at TDC, remove the distributor and use a pre-oiling device attached to a power tool to spin the oil pump to pre-lube the system. Keep spinning the oil pump until you see coming out of the rockers on each bank. Re-install the distributor.

Use some starting fluid on the air intake housing and start up the engine. Check your oil pressure, water temperature, and RPM. Keep the engine running until it reaches operating temperature. You should be good to go then after re-setting/checking the initial advance. Good luck!
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGENT 86 View Post
Pull injector fuses, crank until good oil pressure is achieved, install fuses and fire her up.


& add: Let it run 20-30 minutes then change oil & filter.

Good luck.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:26 PM   #11
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Your Vette is ruined, give it to me now.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGENT 86 View Post
Pull injector fuses, crank until good oil pressure is achieved, install fuses and fire her up.
After an oil change.
You may also want to drain the fuel tank
If you put some fuel stabilizer in you should be Ok
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.beachcomber View Post
Yikes! Fourteen months is a long time to allow an engine to sit, but I think that you're on the right track. First start with fresh, clean oil and filter change. Then remove all the spark plugs, squirt some oil into each combustion chamber, and turn the engine over by hand using the dampener bolt at least two complete revolutions to make sure that the rings were free in all eight cylinders.

Next I would align #1 cylinder at TDC, remove the distributor and use a pre-oiling device attached to a power tool to spin the oil pump to pre-lube the system. Keep spinning the oil pump until you see coming out of the rockers on each bank. Re-install the distributor.

Use some starting fluid on the air intake housing and start up the engine. Check your oil pressure, water temperature, and RPM. Keep the engine running until it reaches operating temperature. You should be good to go then after re-setting/checking the initial advance. Good luck!
it would take another month for me to do all that.
Probably for the most part all unnecessary.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:21 PM   #14
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What Agent86 said, and drain the old fuel,,, mine sat for that long and the car would crank and not fire,, fuel was bad
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:53 PM   #15
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I think you should jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it!

GEEZ!!
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:00 PM   #16
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The second it fires up it will get more oil quicker than preoiling. Ive started cars up that sat for yrs with no problems. THere is still oil on the parts in your engine but its up to you.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
Make sure the battery is charged and fire it up.
That is just what I would do. Fire it up and run until warm, then change oil.
I have let cars sit for years and started with a fresh battery. Also I have never had a problem with gas sitting in a closed tank for several years either.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:08 PM   #18
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Im from the just start it camp.. but as to the fuel.. If you have trouble starting it or running poorly, its the gas. I dont know what they have changed in fuel formulations but it goes bad quickly.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:15 PM   #19
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just start it and drive it.

Ever see cars in the dealer parking lot sit for a year. you think they worry about it.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:59 PM   #20
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Also I have never had a problem with gas sitting in a closed tank for several years either.
Anything older than 3 or 4 months with the newer fuel is junk, even with stabilizer in it...for the sake of $50 in questionable fuel, it's a small investment to start fresh and not have to worry.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:59 PM
 
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