Aardwolf

Nope, and it won't help any more then good pads will. Though some people use that setup just for looks.

dogfish246

It wont... The calipers hit...

Moon86

Was I out to lunch about the e-brake adjusting the rear pads? Nobody commented about what I said so I'm thinking maybe I'm wrong. I was just trying to help.

Moon

Z06X

I definitely think that poor pad replacement, worn rubber brake lines, moisture in the lines and other issues tend to slowly degrade the system in a way people don't notice. Kind of like...did you ever buy new shoes and THEN realize just how bad those old ones were. You don't notice it because it slowly just gets worse.

In racing autocross and other gymkhana style stuff in import cars, there's MUCH braking performance to be gained simply by doing the first line upgrades. We really pushed stock braking systems to the point that we found even the rear drum cars did as well as rear disc upgraded cars. It's really about having quality components first and foremost. Get good pads, new rotors, break them in properly, go with quality HD fluid and system flush, stainless brake lines and be sure your calipers are in good working order. Lubricate the caliper pins well and make sure there's no binding also. Also, be sure each wheel is releasing fully. Brakes can drag and a lot of heat builds in the system leading to quicker moisture build up, quicker brake fade...you name it.

Some people tend to go drilled and slotted with rotors, which is something I generally advise against. With smaller braking systems, losing that much surface area will reduce the effectiveness of the brakes beyond what cooling you've gained. In addition, pad wear with drilled and slotted rotors goes way up. Lastly, drilled and slotted rotors became more of a "look" enhancement and the cheaper rotors tend to develop stress cracks around the drilled holes. Too many issues there, so I always say go slotted only.

Point is, some people look straight to big brake upgrades, when the stock setup can really go far if you just put a little cash into it.

Moon86

My bad. I thought the rear calipers were like the ones on the 83 T/A I had. Didn't realize there were e-brake shoes inside the rotor.

Moon

MK 82

You are aware that the 85 E brake uses a completely separate drum and shoes that is mechanical?

Dr. Evil

You'll find that the stock stuff when kept in good working condition will be adequate for all but heavy rack use. I stopped my 96 in 106 feet from 60mph. Thats with the stock stuff and NAPA ceramic pads. It was measured at the Year One SSBC 0-60-0 challenge. I had the shortest distance overall fwiw.

dclafleur

Mine felt like garbage when I first got it, I flushed the system and put new pads on and it stops like a champ. I think there are lots of problems with neglect on C4 braking systems but considering these were SCCA demons in the '80s when they came out, I don't think the brake systems are underbuilt compared to other cars of the era.

RedLS1GTO

One other thing that hasn't been mentioned is J55 vs. base. There is a big difference between the 2.

Aardwolf

Both can lock up the tires, so I'll have to disagree.

RedLS1GTO

That's your definition of good brakes?

You can lock up the brakes on a 1995 Civic with 1 piston calipers and a 10" rotor. What does that prove?

jhammons01

^^not being smart...but if the brakes lock up.....what more do you need?

I mean...if they are easier to lock up that is one thing.....if they never reach lock up that is also bad....

but if it is measured by how much force on the pedal it takes...I guess...

I mean to say.....how much more brake can you get after lock up?

Again, not being smart...just pointing out that once you have brakes that lock up...there really isn't anything further....

RedLS1GTO

It isn't a matter of MORE braking. It is a matter of BETTER braking. There is a lot more to braking than locking up the tires. If you lock up the brakes, you did it wrong. The best braking systems in the world are precise, easily controllable, predictable, and consistent. The rotor size, brake pad contact area, caliper pistons, and all the rest play a huge part in that.

Have you ever compared your Vette brakes to the brakes on a non-sports car? Do the brakes on the Vette feel "better"? Why is that?

jhammons01

^^So you are now getting into preferences as to the way they actuate; how much pedal travel gets you what......

That is woefully different than being under braked. A car that is under braked would not have enough braking power to make the tires skid.

The amount of pedal travel has to do with the ratio....we currently move our foot 4 times more than the amount the brake piston travels.....that is why it is easy for our foot to apply so much force.

Now add a booster and it makes it even easier.

So now we start with the limits....surely there are limits to how much boost we can get and how much force we can apply with our leg.....

That is the low limit.....now work up from there.

mike100

I had mentioned this to a couple of people before, but the brakes on my 95 were lacking. I did flush the system, rotors were resurfaced and parts store Wagner pads went on. They bedded in hard, just like the oem PBR ones, but the car was reluctant to lock up the brakes when I tried.

I just today got done fitting a new brake booster to it and it can lock up the brakes now. Along the lines of the 'quality of braking', they still suck because the pedal effort still feels high even for medium power application. I am somewhat pleased that I can get panic stop grip out of them now, but maybe a little more capacity in the front with a C5 upgrade and new brake lines would help.

do C5 calipers with the original master cylinder have more bite, or is the pedal effort similar with the only benefit being more thermal capacity?

I think the 95's had the 13" J55 brakes already. I guess maybe I'm being hard on the opinion of this vette when comparing it to my C6 and previously before that, my brembo'd mitsubishi.

pologreen1

No they are not, but they are if you want to compete with newer/ bigger technology.

JrRifleCoach

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the e-brakes drum on the early C4's?

redrose

84-87 emergency brake (NOT a 'parking' brake, big dif) is a drum inside the disc...in 1988+, Gm improved their profit by changing to mechanical lever actuation of the rear disc pads for e-brake.

there are several very good reasons for the c4 brake design: less curb AND unsprung weight, better vehicle acceleration, etc ...alas, as always, the advantages are accompanied with cons...oem brake package is IMHO good for a good operator in normal road conditions.

jan-erik

hi.
I have an 85, z-51, 4+3
I do not now about the newer C-4s but the c-4 brakes that is equal to the 84/85 and those with the same calipers with ABS is not!!! good for a performance car .
I have tried much to do the brakes better with the calipers I have as stock. The braking system is good (masterpump, brakeservo and calipers).
Tried a lot of pads but only small increases in performance.
Changed to Powerslit rotors which was better with Hawk HPS pads but still not good. Then I changed to Hawk HP plus pads and now the brakes are GOOD. Good braking power cld and hot. Good initial bite. The drawback is dusting and squeeling when braking in moderate and slow speed but that is only when initiating the brakes with harder braking no squeeling.
Very good experience with this compination!!

Moon86

Ah, I must have read something about keeping 88 and up rear disc's in adjustment by using the e-brake and thought my 85 was the same. My mistake. But now the question, do you have to use the e-brake on 88 and up to keep the rear discs in adjustment? If so, do most people do it?

Moon