pmihaltian

How best to get the passenger side valve cover off with the EGR pipe in the way? Should I remove it totally or just unbolt it from the intake manifold and try to slowly move it out of the way? What works best?

0Paul Ruggeri

I suggest taking it completely off.

Chatman

Yours is an 86 right? Do take it off completely. It will probably crack open if you try to straighten the bend.

I grind through my cinch ring with the Dremel to remove it but that does require that you use a new ring to replace.

It is a PIA.

jon0108

what a pain to install a new cinch ring. I couldnt squeeze it tight enough. I think you need a tool called an otiker clamp tool in order to properly squeeze it. I waited until i did my evaporator core and had enough room to get a plier used to secure cv boot clamps in there. If i had to do it again unbolt it from the manifold and move it out of the way.

pmihaltian

Thanks guys.

samsonb

Anyone know what torque those EGR bolts get?

jeffp1167

what cinch ring? Or is a 90 different? Mine bolt to the exhaust and the intake.

pmihaltian

I don't know what the EGR bolt torque specs are, but the water inlet, also mounted on the aluminum intake manifold, has a torque specification of 18 ft. lbs. (see attached). So, I suspect that 18 lbs. will be okay.

FWIW,

P.

pmihaltian

Early C4's had a compression type cinch ring which looked like this.

samsonb

I do know the intake bolts are like 30 ft. lbs. Which I figured that should be enough since that feels like the bolt is fixing to snap off. I know they say that EGR tube gets full exhaust, and if the tube isn't tightened all the way, then you could get idle problems.

I may look at 20 ft. lbs. and see what that does. I did buy new bolts though, as mine were all rusted out. I figure $1.60 each isn't too bad.

WW7

In case anyone wants to know the best way to clamp the ring closed, use a pair of cutters or a set of pliers with a cutter to clamp it shut.Just don't sqeeze so hard you cut it off..WW

engle1147

Other EGR riser related tips: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...p-removal.html

pologreen1

mine was just 2 bolts on each end also, maybe was different back then.
we also have to move the ac bracket to remove v/c . I don't think he does. so it could be diff.

corvetteronw

Just did this on my 91 as part of my "top end" mod/refresh project.
As stated in this and other posts the difficult part of this is getting the front of the valve cover past the AC compressor bracket. On my 91 there are 3 bolts that hold the compressor bracket tight against the front of the engine. (Seems like they are 14mm). Loosen those bolts about 1/2 inch and pry the compressor forward as you wiggle the valve cover around and out it comes. I did not grind the bracket down as I replaced with aftermarket covers that seemed to fit on there easier than the OEM ones. Note that one of the bolts that holds the bracket on is between the fuel lines on the 91 and is very hard to get to. I had to use a box end wrench and tap on it with a hammer to break the bolt loose. Also note that I am in the process of changing out my intake manifold so I already had these fuel lines loosened up which made this job easier.

Ray Quayle

Pete,
I've got the OETIKER Tool if you need to borrow it. I'd be happy to post it to you USPS.

corvetteronw

OK - what is the OETIKER Tool? I'll bite.

Ray Quayle

It's the tool for the OETIKER Clamp that jon0108 mentioned earlier.