MP28

Does anyone have the wiring diagram to the driver side power window switch wiring loom and total wiring diagram? I was told my switch was bad, changed it out and the black wire in the connector gets extremely hot and the relay trips. Neither switch works on the driver side but if the black wire is unplugged and the rest of the connector is left plugged in to the switch you can operate the passenger window switch in the passenger door only. It's like it's feeding power through to the switch on the passenger side but neither switch on the driver side is working. I know it's not the switch itself because I have a brand new one plus one from a junk yard and the original switch and they all do the same thing. Anything would be helpful.

Also, I just change my ignition control module. The check engine light is off now but I'm loosing spark periodically. Any idea's?

Thanks,

Mike

rodj

Year model would HELP

MP28

1994 vette

sailorsteve

The black wire is the ground. Does it get hot without pressing the window switch?

On the second, no-spark issue, even though the service light is off, there might be codes stored, which you can retrieve w/o equipment, use the search function of this forum to learn how to read them.

MP28

It gets hot immediately. The current wiring at the connector is:

small grey/blk stripe wire A
blank space B
black C
brown D
tan or pink E
blue F
yellow G
lt. blue H

Now that I've cleared the codes I'm going to go drive it right now to see if I can get some codes out of it.

MP28

No codes after 20 minutes of varied driving so looks like all I need to figure out is the window switch issue. If the black is ground how can I see if something is grounding out?

sailorsteve

My car, a '92, and FSM have a different wiring color arrangement on this connector. It has mostly the same colors you found, but on different pins. Did you rearrange yours?

MP28

No, I havent. Pretty weak on electrical. If when I plug the black in it's getting hot, what would that mean exactly? Are other items powered through the window switch?. It seems nothing is really affected outside the window switch itself, when the ground (blk) is unplugged and the switch on the passenger side works with the ground unplugged.

sailorsteve

It seems to me from your posts and the '92 diagram that some of your wires are on the wrong pins, but only if the layout is the same for '94. Did the windows previously work properly?

MP28

My wife was driving it when it quit. When I looked at it the relay was tripping. I did find that one of the wires to the motor had been pinched and obviously was grounding out. I repaired the area that was grounding but am concerned that it could possibly have got another wire hot and grounded it too. Could you tell me what your manual says what wire goes where? That might help me troubleshoot mine some.

sailorsteve

Pin A- night lighting, small gray wire
Pin G- power in, pink
Pin D- power to motor pin A, dark blue
Pin C- power to motor pin B, brown
Pin H- power to pass. side motor, dark blue w/ white trace
Pin E- power to pass. side motor, tan
Pin F- ground, black

If the windows previously worked properly, it is not likely that the wires are incorrect. Does your car have one-touch automatic "down" on the driver's side?

MP28

yes

MP28

that's the problem. I know I took the brown and black wires off. Don't think I took any others off but frankly I'm unsure at this point.

sailorsteve

That's why they are different, '92 did not have this function.

You should not relocate any wires based on my diagram. If I had to guess, I would suspect the motor. You can check this but the door panel has to be removed.

MP28

I've already checked the motor. It's running up and down fine. I ran wire directly from the battery to check it and it goes up and down just fine.

sailorsteve

So, you must already have the panel off. Try this- unplug the connector from the motor. Turn the key on. Connect a test light or voltmeter from terminal A of motor connector to ground, and the same for B. The test light should light or the vm should read battery voltage each time. If that's ok, connect the test light between the two terminals on the motor connector and operate the switch. (key is on)
The light should light with the window switch pressed to "up" or "down". These tests confirm correct operation of the switch.

If you have changed some wires on the window switch connector, these tests may not work. Without seeing the correct diagram, I don't know how the auto-down function is wired. There may be a relay in the circuit. However, in my experience, GM uses black to code grounds. You can confirm this by removing the black wire from the connector and either ohming it to a known good ground (should read zeroish) or connecting a test light from a source of battery voltage to the disconnected black wire, it should light.

MP28

I will try that right now. Thanks. I'll get right back to you

MP28

ok. terminal B lit test light. Terminal A did not. B is grey and A is blue. I think A goes back to the switch just like yours. B goes to ground I think. I then connected test light to both sides and it lit dimly like it had a few volts running to it. I depressed all the switches and the light went out except for driver side down. When I depressed that the light stayed the same. Plus now I can't start my car again. I think all this is inter-related. I think I have a ground in the 2 wires to the motor.

sailorsteve

The window motor, as you know, is reversible. Both wires connecting to the motor have battery voltage (B+), supplied thru the switch in its neutral position when the key is on. When you press the switch, one or the other feed to the motor is diverted from B+ to ground, thus operating the motor, either up or down. When you connect a test light across the two pins of the motor connector, key on and switch in the neutral position, it should not light at all because both pins have B+ voltage. Also, either motor feed wire should light the tester when connected to ground, again, key on and switch neutral.

Since your results were not as above, the wiring to the switch is likely at fault. If you did get the ground (black) wire switched with either feed to the motor, that would be a short to ground and would explain the wire getting hot and tripping the breaker. It is possible that the coding of your switch connector is the same as mine, but I don't know for sure.

In addition, I'm only guessing at the sequence of events that happened.
Was it, (a) your wife had a problem with the window, (b) you replaced the switch, (c) you found and repaired a pinched wire, and (d) some wires to the connector were transposed? If so, your current problem might be due to the mislocated wires and the original problem was, in fact, the switch, which you replaced.