Are standard size brakes really that bad?
02-09-2011, 07:43 PM
#21
Slingshot
For street use, the factory brakes will work fine. Pad selection plays a huge part in braking performance too. For track days, lots of C4 owners go with different pads for that day alone and change back to a street pad after the event.
When you change rotor diameter in the front, you may have to install the Doug Rippie Motorsports brake bias spring to change the bias (line pressure) between the front and rear brakes. I did that when I upgraded the front brakes on my 87 to C5 brakes.
Before swapping in the spring, I could get the ABS to activate with only medium brake pedal pressure, which was something like a medium hard stop from 35 to 0.
As far as the C5 upgrade, you will need a custom adapter to be able to bolt the C5 caliper mounting bracket to the C4 knuckle. The J55 brakes can be added to 88 and later cars with 12" front brakes using all GM parts.
When you change rotor diameter in the front, you may have to install the Doug Rippie Motorsports brake bias spring to change the bias (line pressure) between the front and rear brakes. I did that when I upgraded the front brakes on my 87 to C5 brakes.
Before swapping in the spring, I could get the ABS to activate with only medium brake pedal pressure, which was something like a medium hard stop from 35 to 0.
As far as the C5 upgrade, you will need a custom adapter to be able to bolt the C5 caliper mounting bracket to the C4 knuckle. The J55 brakes can be added to 88 and later cars with 12" front brakes using all GM parts.
02-09-2011, 08:26 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
Even the yellow's are not worthy.
If you really want to shorten your brake zone on the road course go to brake cooling ducts and Carbotech XP12/10 combo. Back straight at Road Atl 120+ to a 50ish left hander. Can wait to hit the brakes between the 2 and 1 marker.
If you really want to shorten your brake zone on the road course go to brake cooling ducts and Carbotech XP12/10 combo. Back straight at Road Atl 120+ to a 50ish left hander. Can wait to hit the brakes between the 2 and 1 marker.
03-09-2011, 11:40 AM
#24
Cruising
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Central Point Oregon
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Good brakes to Great brakes
Stock Rotors should be fine, as log as they have not been over heated and heat cracked, look at the rotors closely, any small cracks, discoloration, or Glazing.
But stock brakes may need some maintenance, Rebuilding calipers can make the mechanical part the Piston move much better, if it is currently not moving like new, also lubing the guide pins can also help
Glazing can be fixed/cleaned up, by scuffing up the rotor with 80grit to break glaze, Over heated rotor cannot be fixed other than replacement.
Next, if your car is 5-years old or older and has rubber brake lines, they are soft and balloon when the brakes are pressed, replace them with S.S. lines.
Brake fluid is only good for about two years, and should be replaced every other year, in doing so will keep your calipers in good health, this is a complete evacuation with a mity-vac, and new fluid replacement.
I have used a check valve(one way valve) called 2-lb residual Valve to prevent brake fluid from backing up the line, (This will shorten pedal travel) this keeps fluid at the caliper (without causing brakes to drag)and does not allow natural brake fluid bleed back from gravity and vibration.
someone mentioned a different brake master, yes, a larger piston brake master cyl. can help with lighter pedal pressure, and will move more fluid, i have done this with manual Brake setups that felt like power brakes with more brake feel.
Better Brake pads can also help.
If you find that you are over heating your brakes look into ducting cool air to the rotors
But stock brakes may need some maintenance, Rebuilding calipers can make the mechanical part the Piston move much better, if it is currently not moving like new, also lubing the guide pins can also help
Glazing can be fixed/cleaned up, by scuffing up the rotor with 80grit to break glaze, Over heated rotor cannot be fixed other than replacement.
Next, if your car is 5-years old or older and has rubber brake lines, they are soft and balloon when the brakes are pressed, replace them with S.S. lines.
Brake fluid is only good for about two years, and should be replaced every other year, in doing so will keep your calipers in good health, this is a complete evacuation with a mity-vac, and new fluid replacement.
I have used a check valve(one way valve) called 2-lb residual Valve to prevent brake fluid from backing up the line, (This will shorten pedal travel) this keeps fluid at the caliper (without causing brakes to drag)and does not allow natural brake fluid bleed back from gravity and vibration.
someone mentioned a different brake master, yes, a larger piston brake master cyl. can help with lighter pedal pressure, and will move more fluid, i have done this with manual Brake setups that felt like power brakes with more brake feel.
Better Brake pads can also help.
If you find that you are over heating your brakes look into ducting cool air to the rotors
