Newbie need help misfires...w/ codes
#1
Newbie need help misfires...w/ codes
hello, i would first like to ay thanks for this amazing page, it has been very resourceful for me....I have a 1996 Lt1 powered vette,and my problems are very strong fuel odors,missing very bad at idle (with both cold and warm engine)..very noticable power loss.....the car has 120,000 miles and i bought it a year ago..it is completly stock engine wise..(no mods) and im not sure if prev. owner replaced anything underhood.. i put my finger in left tailpipe and it has alot of carbon there but the passenger side seems fine... i am getting the flashing then steady check engine light and codes are as follows::: p0100 MASS AIR FLOW OR VAF A CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION///////po113 IAT SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT/////////p0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire//////p1661 MIL lamp.........................the 1661 code has been there even before the car started running bad but it would also be a blessing to get that one took care of also...PLEASE ANY HELP/INPUT is greatly appreciated...I know that plugs,wires,o2 sensors,opti,coil, could all be a problem but just trying to see if maybe with those codes something could be pin pointed without the guesswork and wasted money...also problem came not long after power steering line broke at pump and fluid has been thrown everywhere close to the harmonic balancer,thus making me lean towards opti....sorry for the length..
#2
Le Mans Master
Look at the injector information in the sitcky post.
Ohm your injectors hot and cold
Take your MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner - do NOT use anything else
Check the connector at your IAT (Its in the intake bellows)
Get a factory service manual so you can follow the troubleshooting steps for each code.
Ohm your injectors hot and cold
Take your MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner - do NOT use anything else
Check the connector at your IAT (Its in the intake bellows)
Get a factory service manual so you can follow the troubleshooting steps for each code.
#3
Look at the injector information in the sitcky post.
Ohm your injectors hot and cold
Take your MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner - do NOT use anything else
Check the connector at your IAT (Its in the intake bellows)
Get a factory service manual so you can follow the troubleshooting steps for each code.
Ohm your injectors hot and cold
Take your MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner - do NOT use anything else
Check the connector at your IAT (Its in the intake bellows)
Get a factory service manual so you can follow the troubleshooting steps for each code.
The factory service manual?
#4
Look at the injector information in the sitcky post.
Ohm your injectors hot and cold
Take your MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner - do NOT use anything else
Check the connector at your IAT (Its in the intake bellows)
Get a factory service manual so you can follow the troubleshooting steps for each code.
Ohm your injectors hot and cold
Take your MAF off and clean it with MAF cleaner - do NOT use anything else
Check the connector at your IAT (Its in the intake bellows)
Get a factory service manual so you can follow the troubleshooting steps for each code.
Good advice, FSM available here or try the C4 Parts for Sale forum or ebay.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage...ls&btnG=Google
#5
Melting Slicks
Welcome to the forum....
considering: this problem Manifested after a power steering leak, this "could" be the cause of your problems. With the engine NOT running, Carefully remove and inspect electrical connections for any signs of oil contamination, these can be cleaned by dipping them in rubbing alcohol (when possible) and then spraying them with contact cleaner, followed by a shot of clean dry air. Or just let them dry on there own...
Lubricate the rubber seal at each connector with silicone grease, this helps with installing the connector, and prevents water/oil from entering.
I would follow the oil trail for starter's...
considering: this problem Manifested after a power steering leak, this "could" be the cause of your problems. With the engine NOT running, Carefully remove and inspect electrical connections for any signs of oil contamination, these can be cleaned by dipping them in rubbing alcohol (when possible) and then spraying them with contact cleaner, followed by a shot of clean dry air. Or just let them dry on there own...
Lubricate the rubber seal at each connector with silicone grease, this helps with installing the connector, and prevents water/oil from entering.
I would follow the oil trail for starter's...
#6
ok update i went into the garage today just to do some visual examination and within 5 min i saw that the rubber boot/duct that connects the MAF to the throttle body looks like its on from the top but it is bent at the bottom,i was able to get almost 3 fingers inside my throttlebody without taking off the clamp...i checked the air ilter side also side also and it to had a gap where air was escaping out the bottom...i am currently searching for a replacement duct for both sides of the MAF,i tried taking it off putting back on the proper way but as soon as i tightnen the screw the rubber just goes right back into that position and leaves the gap again....MAF was dirty and i bought cleaner today for it....will post new update tomorrow...thanks for the input guys
#7
Welcome to the forum....
considering: this problem Manifested after a power steering leak, this "could" be the cause of your problems. With the engine NOT running, Carefully remove and inspect electrical connections for any signs of oil contamination, these can be cleaned by dipping them in rubbing alcohol (when possible) and then spraying them with contact cleaner, followed by a shot of clean dry air. Or just let them dry on there own...
Lubricate the rubber seal at each connector with silicone grease, this helps with installing the connector, and prevents water/oil from entering.
I would follow the oil trail for starter's...
considering: this problem Manifested after a power steering leak, this "could" be the cause of your problems. With the engine NOT running, Carefully remove and inspect electrical connections for any signs of oil contamination, these can be cleaned by dipping them in rubbing alcohol (when possible) and then spraying them with contact cleaner, followed by a shot of clean dry air. Or just let them dry on there own...
Lubricate the rubber seal at each connector with silicone grease, this helps with installing the connector, and prevents water/oil from entering.
I would follow the oil trail for starter's...
#8
Melting Slicks
ok update i went into the garage today just to do some visual examination and within 5 min i saw that the rubber boot/duct that connects the MAF to the throttle body looks like its on from the top but it is bent at the bottom,i was able to get almost 3 fingers inside my throttlebody without taking off the clamp...i checked the air ilter side also side also and it to had a gap where air was escaping out the bottom...i am currently searching for a replacement duct for both sides of the MAF,i tried taking it off putting back on the proper way but as soon as i tightnen the screw the rubber just goes right back into that position and leaves the gap again....MAF was dirty and i bought cleaner today for it....will post new update tomorrow...thanks for the input guys
#9
UPDATE:: day before yesterday i cleaned MAF and put air intake rubber ducts back on like they should be,erased the codes and started the car.....way less fuel odor now and the check engine light started flashing again so i rescanned it and i only have the p0300 random cylinder misfire code now.....so im thought well maybe the plugs are fouled from the previous condition and bought new ones to install yesterday...i got all plugs in except i think its #7 (closest to the passenger side door.)i have been trying to get this plug started for 2 days and have had no success,its so irritating..so thats where i am now...oh yeah plugs were very black and wet,smell like gas..
#10
Race Director
#7 plug
If you are good with your left hand. Sit facing forward on the right front tire, lean back, and start the plug with your left hand. This use to work for me when my car was stock.
#11
Ok after 5million cusswords,6 thousand cuts and bruises and 2 days later I finally got that plug in...ended up using an old piece of hose to fish it in... cleaned up the bay from tools,looked for a socket with spark plug still in it that I dropped during the #7 install and still have not found it...I got under the car and no sign of either anywhere so I called of the search....any how I fired it up and it runs better than when I bought it.....drove it around the Neiborhood with expired tags and was probaly the happiest guy on the the streets...anyway I would like to thank everyone who left me input on this thread...this forum rocks...
#12
Le Mans Master
Ah, the bottomless pit tool eating monster, have had a few things disapear on me. Some have later showed up but I think a few have been eaten and are gone forver. BTY, might want to clean the carbon out of the top of your cylinders.