Cavi

I have a mechanic who will get the job done right, plus he is willing to listen and read any scrap of info I bring him, and I will be supplying all of the needed housing parts and such before he even starts the job. I was just curious as to how long this whole process of removal of the column repair and reinstall took.

Stu 91 drop top

taking out the column is not too bad. carpet panel, wiring connectors, under hood shaft removal, 2 bolts on the firewall, accelerator pedal, alluminum support and 4 bolts holding the shaft. I'd set aside 2-3 hrs for the first time. I took the drivers seat out for more room.

The shaft is not too bad either if you take your time. 6 hrs? less if you have done a few.

mike100

I was able to get my column on my 91 properly repaired this time with only a new base assy. the housing on mine wasn't too bad, I was able to hand select the fattest pins and swaged some 3mm copper sheet on the looser side.

This was my second column attempt. My first one was attempted in-car and without a new base, was not able to significantly reduce the wobble. You have to take the column out to repair/repalce the base assy.

http://www.thevettebarn.com/forums/c...ng-wobble.html

93VettePilot

He seems like a nice man and very knowlegable about the problem. He told me this is the only way to fix it. He had tried all the other ways and don't waste your time. Glad to hear he provided some good assistance for you too.

1985 Corvette

I have a column to rebuild there's just one thing: one of the silver nuts in column housing is missing. It's one of two that fastens the entire column to the cross member. I checked the manual and it says if either of these two nuts are missing that the column is damaged. Column looks good though, any thoughts? I figured one of the nuts got knocked out when it was removed and shipped to me.

mike100

I think that's part of the collapsible part of the shaft. If the fore-aft length specification is still ok, I'd probably try to install another one in its place. Like you said, the FSM shows the go/no go dimensions.

HAWAIIZR-1

Gear Jammer,

This has to be one of the best and most valuable technical posts around. I don't know if my problem is this bad to go through this rebuild or not.

My wheel just goes straight up and down, not down and to the left. It moves about 1/2 up and down so it does not sound a serious as what I hear about, but I will want to fix it.

Does anyone have experience with other repairs or knowledge about staight up and down slop?

Thanks!

mazdaverx7

hands down, one of teh best writeups i have ever read! job well done!

Joe C

Althaz

Hi, this thread is going to be quite useful to me as I'm beginning to have some slop as well (2mm of slack moovement, and a avrage push causes the wheel to tip down a bit, has happend when driving, very perturbing).

Just one thing I cant figure out : Why does the steering actually tilt ? (ok, stupid question, after owning the car for 3 years I've only just spotted the lever and tilt adjustment, damn, I'm tempted to weld it in one position !)

dchildress

Dumb question. I have a 94 with a 6 speed. After my column completely fell apart and left me on the side of the road, the guy that towed it for me installed an automatic column that is nice and tight. Problem is he left the ignition switch from the automatic in it. Is there any chance you might know if the manual ignition switch will fit in the automatic housing? The cable to release the key has slipped and the key won't come out. Since the key won't come out I had to pull my power lock fuse since the computer won't let the door lock with key in ignition. Since I have no power lock, I have no keyless entry. I have the old column and the switch is hot wired into the system under the dash. I'd like to shoot the hack that did it.

TSHANNON

I'm currently rebuilding my steering column. The problem I'm having is where the dimmer push rod is connected to the multifunction switch (turn signal,wiper,etc) arm. The past owner said he fixed some things on the column (what a joke) when he put a push button start. I have looked at the shop manual and i have a gm parts list but can't make heads or trails of it. I know I'm missing the cap that goes around the mutifuntion switch. Does anyone have pictures of that area so I can look to see if i'm missing any parts and how the rod conects to the arm. Thanks Tim

Gear Jammer

Based on your description, sounds like you might be missing the plastic link for the actutor rod. Do you have this plastic piece?:




Looking at the picture above, the right side of the link is actually a curved groove, the groove fits over the dimmer actuator/rod. The left end of the link is where the multi-function switch contacts the link.


Here is how it fits into the column




Hard to explain, but this plastic link slides into the column as shown above, the right side first. There is a channel in the plastic column housing that this piece rides in, 7:00 - 8:00 oclock position on the column as if you were looking at it from the drivers position. The housing (if I remember correctly) has a little tab, the hollowed out portion of the link slides over this tab.

TSHANNON

No I'm also missing the cover. Thanks I thought Iwas missing something other than the cover. Ordered cover from Corvette center this week. Now I will look for like. Thanks Tim

LouisvilleLT4

Sorry to resurrect this old post again, but it seems that ImageShack.com has shat the bed during the time span since these extremely helpful photos were originally posted. Does anyone have them saved? Gear Jammer?

Edit: Also thanks for that photo two posts ago of the brights actuator, it helped me get the orientation of it correct after it fell out

Gear Jammer

3 year update: Updated broken imageshack links - thanks Garrett!! why some links still active and others arent, I'll never know. I re-linked to a different site (imgur.com) for the broken links, lets see how they do in the long run. At least imageshack links are loosely based on the original filename, so that it made it easy for me to figure out what pictures needed to be re-linked. (the new site imagur has random names.)

I am meticulous about not using the steering wheel to prop myself getting in or out of the car, so the tilt steering is still going strong!!

I have since found out that you can get over-sized pivot pins - a cheaper fix, until you want to tackle replacing the housings.

I also want to tighten up my high-beam switch, theres too large of a gap between the actuator rod and switch at the bottom of the column. I can turn the high beams on and off no problem, but I have to pull the turn signal stalk all the way to its limit.

John

neelas

Great write up I'm going to do mine also so thank you

Gear Jammer

Oh, I forgot to mention, about a year nad half ago, the replacement AC Delco ignition cylinder quit reading the ignition key VATS resistance. Havent really tried to troubleshoot this problem, I simply put back in the VATS bypass resistor I had. At least it only stranded me at Starbucks!

LouisvilleLT4

When I do mine I was thinking about holding off on buying the part, and just shimming the worn pins by wrapping them in sheet metal, and jamming them back in. As someone who's actually handled this machine, do you think would it work?


I have to pull my stalk hard to get the switch to click too. The rod fell out of the switch and the actuator hit the floor when I took the little plastic cover off that holds it. I guess I have to tighten it up. Is it supposed to be "pullable" both directions - that is, pushable too for a quick flash of temporary bright engagement - or am I getting the brights functionality mixed up with a different car? Because mine only does the pull direction, and only with difficulty.

--

Lastly, my car is intermittently not starting. I wonder if it's a wire ripping out behind the ignition switch. I do know that the key pellet reader's wire has already ripped out, forcing me to bypass it. Is it a likely scenario for one of the main wires to rip out off the back on its own as well?

Gear Jammer

Hmm, not sure. I think you might have a tough time getting the pins back in without tearing the sheet metal? It would have to be pretty thin, and you would have to get wrapped around the pins pretty tight.


My 91 doesnt have the flash to pass, guess you're thinking of some other car. Regarrdless, there shouldnt be much resistance on the stalk to engage the high beams.
--

Need more clarification no crank? cranks, but no fire? I think the only wires running through the column that could cause intermittent no-starts is the VATS and you already bypassed that. The starter circuit is energized mechanically when you twist the ignition key forward. Me thinks your problem is elsewhere....