C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Turning Crankshaft for Leakdown Test

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Old 04-07-2011, 10:42 PM
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redzr1
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Default Turning Crankshaft for Leakdown Test

I tried to get to the center bolt on the harmonic balancer to rotate the crank for performing a leakdown test on each of the cylinders of my 91 L98. Pretty much looked impossible to get to without taking off the pully and damper on the water pump. Could not see a way to easily remove the four bolts on the damper, any suggestions? Any better way to rotate the crankshaft to position the cylinders for leakdown testing? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Old 04-07-2011, 10:49 PM
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383vett
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On my 84, I can use a 1/2" torque wrench with a 3/4" socket without having to remove anything. You can always use a flywheel turning tool.
Old 04-07-2011, 10:57 PM
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redzr1
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There was not a way to get in directly with a 1/2" torque wrench without hitting the damper on the water pump, and could not get straight at it from the bottom side either.
Old 04-07-2011, 11:06 PM
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cgantner5150
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I use a 1/2 ratchet with a deep well socket on my 86 - no problems. Is this a stock configuration and damper your dealing with?
Old 04-08-2011, 12:07 AM
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redzr1
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It is a pretty stock 91 L98.
Old 04-08-2011, 09:17 AM
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AGENT 86
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If the plugs are out, you may be able to do it at the alternator.
Old 04-08-2011, 10:40 AM
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redzr1
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
If the plugs are out, you may be able to do it at the alternator.
Tried that and the belt just slips. Will give it another shot tonight with a rubberized glove to pull on the belt at the same time as spinning the pulley with a socket wrench before proceeding with removing the damper on the water pump.
Old 04-08-2011, 11:04 AM
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OkieC4
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You should be able to get to it from underneath the car with a socket, wobbly, a 6 inch extension and a ratchet/breaker bar. I was able to feed the socket/extension in the gap between the steering rack and the sway bar/crossmember above the cooler and there is room between the fans and the rack to work the ratchet..

Otherwise, I admit, I removed the dist cap, and bumped the starter to get me close to tdc on each cylinder by watching the rotor position.

Last edited by OkieC4; 04-08-2011 at 11:17 AM.
Old 04-10-2011, 10:36 PM
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redzr1
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Removing the damper on the water pump and the pulley behind it allowed for enough room to get a 1/2" torque wrench with 5/8" socket onto the front of the crank to turn in. Thanks for all the input.
Old 04-11-2011, 09:03 AM
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Deepa
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i put it in 6th gear with the rear end jacked up and turn it by the tires
Old 04-11-2011, 10:38 AM
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