Turning Crankshaft for Leakdown Test
#1
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Turning Crankshaft for Leakdown Test
I tried to get to the center bolt on the harmonic balancer to rotate the crank for performing a leakdown test on each of the cylinders of my 91 L98. Pretty much looked impossible to get to without taking off the pully and damper on the water pump. Could not see a way to easily remove the four bolts on the damper, any suggestions? Any better way to rotate the crankshaft to position the cylinders for leakdown testing? Any suggestions are appreciated.
#2
Race Director
On my 84, I can use a 1/2" torque wrench with a 3/4" socket without having to remove anything. You can always use a flywheel turning tool.
#3
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There was not a way to get in directly with a 1/2" torque wrench without hitting the damper on the water pump, and could not get straight at it from the bottom side either.
#7
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Tried that and the belt just slips. Will give it another shot tonight with a rubberized glove to pull on the belt at the same time as spinning the pulley with a socket wrench before proceeding with removing the damper on the water pump.
#8
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You should be able to get to it from underneath the car with a socket, wobbly, a 6 inch extension and a ratchet/breaker bar. I was able to feed the socket/extension in the gap between the steering rack and the sway bar/crossmember above the cooler and there is room between the fans and the rack to work the ratchet..
Otherwise, I admit, I removed the dist cap, and bumped the starter to get me close to tdc on each cylinder by watching the rotor position.
Otherwise, I admit, I removed the dist cap, and bumped the starter to get me close to tdc on each cylinder by watching the rotor position.
Last edited by OkieC4; 04-08-2011 at 11:17 AM.
#9
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Removing the damper on the water pump and the pulley behind it allowed for enough room to get a 1/2" torque wrench with 5/8" socket onto the front of the crank to turn in. Thanks for all the input.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '05
Remote starter button