scorp508

Ok well, I had to replace the water pump in the Camaro this morning before I could even think about touching the Vette. After doing that, I really wasn't in the mood for working on the Vette to be honest. So.. I took a couple of hours off and decided I needed to work on it. :)

So today we.....

1. Installed One Cylinder Head & Gasket
2. Installed Pushrods
3. Installed Comp Cam Pro Magnum 1.6:1 Roller Rockers
4. Adjusted all 8 rockers

Ok these first 5 or so show the stock late 1986 and 1987 aluminum cylinder heads next to the stock 1988-1991 D-Port aluminum cylinder heads. The D-Ports have some work done to them. That being...

-Ported/Polished
-2.02" Manley Pro Flo SS Intake Valves
-1.60" Exhaust Valves
-7/16" Rocker Studs
-3 Angle Valve Job
-Titanium Valve Retainers
-10* Valve Retainer Locks
-Lunati Double Valve Springs
-Cut Spring Seats
-Brand New Valve Guides
-Comp Cams Hardened Guide Plates
-Teflon Valve Seals







Here is a good shot of the original exhaust port design next to the D-Ports.







Fel-Pro 1010 Head Gasket in place.





Underside of the new head.



The head is installed!! All bolts had ARP thread sealer put on them, and were torqued to the 60 ft/lb in four steps of 45 - 50 - 55 - 60.







Hardened pushrods in place now with ARP assembly lube on the top, bottom, and along the area that contacts the hardened Comp Cams guide plates.





Just some random shots of the CC Pro-Mags installed and adjusted 5/8 turn past 0 lash. :)















[Modified by scorp508, 5:34 PM 4/20/2002]

Blue 92

:cool: :cheers:

GlockLT4

:cheers: :cheers: Looks familiar! :D

Coupe89

Looking good :cool:
Can't wait to do mine... :D

J Z06

You're moving right along. Looks good!

I'll again stress the liking I have for your safety plan, blocks, jackstands etc. I've seen sooo many horses A** types with just a jack under the car. That just erks me to know that if one little thing goes wrong you're seriously injured or dead. Having a 3000 pound ride come down on you isn't the best thing. And it takes a mere two minutes to put stands safely underneath. I applaud you for that.

The car is going to run sooo nice when it's done!

Well done once again.

Carrie

Good job Bri!

(At least it gets you off the computer for awhile. :jester )

GlockLT4

:lol: :lol: :jester

Thomas

Bri? WTF! BRI?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:


*kidding you kid. Car looks great*

L98Terror

Looking good can't wait till it's done :cheers:

NoWorries

:cool: Did you measure the pushrod length with the new heads/cam? They look about right, but visual isn't always best.

scorp508

Last year when I purchased the valvetrain I called up Lingenfelter and said "I'm using this, this, this, this, and this." they said "you need this", I said "send it". :)

I do have the adjustable checker. Maybe I'll play with that on the other side.

Vic'89

Scorp

Looks very good so far.

What method did you use to adjust the valves ?

Also, how much work is done to the heads ?

Vic

scorp508

You bring the timing mark on the balancer to 0 as you watch the valves for #1. When the valves are both closed and the balancer timing mark at 0 you are at firing position for the #1 cylinder. Now you can adjust...

Exhaust -- 1, 3, 4, 8
Intake -- 1, 2, 5, 7

After adjusting rotate the balancer one full turn to bring the timing mark back to 0. You are now at the firing position for #6. Now you can adjust...

Exhaust -- 2, 5, 6, 7
Intake -- 3, 4, 6, 8

As for adjusting....

tighten the 5/8" nut on the rocker with your fingers or an open end wrench if it is tight while spinning the pushrod with two fingers on the other hand. Suddenly you will feel the pushrod have a little bit of friction. It just gets slightly tighter to spin. It is very slight. As soon as you feel the slightest resistence, I backed off and redid it to make sure it was right. This is 0 lash.

Once you are at 0 lash you want to turn the nut another <insert your prefered amount here, see below> turn. Now hold the wrench there and don't move it. Take an alan wrench and tighten the lock in the center of the nut good and snug. All done.

My father suggested 1/2 turn, others have suggested 3/4 turn. The '87 service manual for the stock cast rockers states 1 full turn. I took the difference of 1/2 and 3/4 and went to 5/8 of a turn. Think of it like a clock. If my wrench started at 6 o'clock, I turned it to 1:30.

I am sure that I'll probably have to go through this again, but I wanted to at least get all of them at the same base tightness to begin with. :)

p.s.

When you drop all of the rockers on, there is bound to be one that doesn't fall on enough to catch any threads with the nut. This is the valve that is currently open all of the way so the pushrod is holding it up too much. Rotate the crank enough to drop the lifter and the rocker & nut will go on fine. :)

p.p.s.

The heads were already ported & polished when I got them so I really can't say what "stage" they are. Perhaps Mike In Boston will chime in as I purchased the heads off of him. The look very nicely done on the inside, all the cast marks are gone, the inside is smoothed nicely but not overly smooth.

65Z01

Common man, you're tempting me here. Once I get the base & valve covers off I'll be sooo close to that extra 25hp...

Lets see now, cam, heads, headers, etc....are we talking low 12s here or what.

I'm very anxious to see your trap speed; please get temp & baro data then if possible.

BTW, it's gotta be a very nice feeling now, seeing it comming together.:cheers:

Mr. Magoo

Awesome bud!!!! :cool: :cheers:

scorp508

You know it! And Jim since I know you like that stock look, those 113 heads will keep that. ;) I'll be sure to get temps, but baro might be only if I'm down at E-Town. New England Dragway doesn't give you that data. :( Maybe I'll bring a barometer. :D

Drewdog

sweet :cool:

Corvette0096

That is the best way i have found to do it... :yesnod:

Aggravated4life

Hey scorp,
Been following your threads but havent been able to post much.Great pics and reading for everyone.

Also,I need you to check something if you dont mind.I noticed the new heads with the '113 castings numbers in the photo.Whats your casting number for the stock '87 head?I was just curious since the books I have dont list it.

Anyways,Interesting enough,the Late '86-87 heads are identical to the 88's except in 88 and up,the exhaust port roof was raised .100" and the floor was flattend to make a "D" shape port(see photos above for those that didnt see the comparison shot scorp took) and the exhaust valves was treated to 65º back cut.Those changes in 88 brought a 15% increase in exhaust flow in stock trim.

So it seems to me those pre '88 alloy heads can be worked/ported that way and given the same treatment,plus CNC porting and larger valves.
But I know its still good to have the 113 castings with the mods already done.
:)
Good Luck with the car.

BiZ

Looking good Scorp :cheers:

I bet you are dying to fire that beast up.