click, click, clack, clack, click, click, clack, clack....
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
click, click, clack, clack, click, click, clack, clack....
... sound out of passenger side valvetrain .... I can't figure out if I am being paranoid or not, the rest of the engine is relatively quiet.
is that the injector I am hearing over there where it's not covered by intake manifold or is that like a lifter that has collapsed? it goes away above about 2000rpm.... i have oil pressure at idle, however it says it is like 65psi so gauge might be off.
is that the injector I am hearing over there where it's not covered by intake manifold or is that like a lifter that has collapsed? it goes away above about 2000rpm.... i have oil pressure at idle, however it says it is like 65psi so gauge might be off.
Last edited by mistaben; 08-15-2011 at 07:16 PM.
#2
Pro
... sound out of passenger side valvetrain .... I can't figure out if I am being paranoid or not, the rest of the engine is relatively quiet.
is that the injector I am hearing over there where it's not covered by intake manifold or is that like a lifter that has collapsed? it goes away above about 2000rpm.... i have oil pressure at idle, however it says it is like 65psi so gauge might be off.
is that the injector I am hearing over there where it's not covered by intake manifold or is that like a lifter that has collapsed? it goes away above about 2000rpm.... i have oil pressure at idle, however it says it is like 65psi so gauge might be off.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
agreed. yea... it's definately not an injector.... im thinking a loose rocker arm or something?
when I pull the intake manifold to replace the injectors I will inspect the rocker arms closely.
there isn't a procedure for tightening them down is there?
when I pull the intake manifold to replace the injectors I will inspect the rocker arms closely.
there isn't a procedure for tightening them down is there?
#4
Race Director
Don't have to pull the intake to change injectors. I would pull the valve cover and figure out what the noise is. If you can't feel any play in the valvetrain, run the motor for a few seconds and you should be able to isolate the noise. Make sure it is not an exhaust gasket or cracked exhaust manifold.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Don't have to pull the intake to change injectors. I would pull the valve cover and figure out what the noise is. If you can't feel any play in the valvetrain, run the motor for a few seconds and you should be able to isolate the noise. Make sure it is not an exhaust gasket or cracked exhaust manifold.
#6
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to adjust the rockers you will loosen the rocker until it starts clicking then slowly tighten it down until it quits clicking then tighten an additional 1/2 turn. do this for all 16. the engine will need to be running
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
one question though, why would the rocker arms be loose? meh. I will start with that and move to my fears of a collapsed lifter later.
thanks guys.
#8
If this happened suddenly....I'd suspect of a lifter collapsed.
Then again I've found that internet descirption of noises is so bizzare that what you describe as a "clack clack" might be tick tick, knock knock or spit spit..to the next guy.
To my ears...clacking is slack (lots of it) in the valve train...bent push rod, broken spring, collapsed lifter...bad rocker.
Did this start after a hi-rpm adventure?
Then again I've found that internet descirption of noises is so bizzare that what you describe as a "clack clack" might be tick tick, knock knock or spit spit..to the next guy.
To my ears...clacking is slack (lots of it) in the valve train...bent push rod, broken spring, collapsed lifter...bad rocker.
Did this start after a hi-rpm adventure?
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If this happened suddenly....I'd suspect of a lifter collapsed.
Then again I've found that internet descirption of noises is so bizzare that what you describe as a "clack clack" might be tick tick, knock knock or spit spit..to the next guy.
To my ears...clacking is slack (lots of it) in the valve train...bent push rod, broken spring, collapsed lifter...bad rocker.
Did this start after a hi-rpm adventure?
Then again I've found that internet descirption of noises is so bizzare that what you describe as a "clack clack" might be tick tick, knock knock or spit spit..to the next guy.
To my ears...clacking is slack (lots of it) in the valve train...bent push rod, broken spring, collapsed lifter...bad rocker.
Did this start after a hi-rpm adventure?
soo... needless to say, I am guessing at loose rocker arm.
btw, what fuel pressure these suppose to run at 43.5psi right? is it common for the pressure to drop to say 35psi then come back up when it gets up to speed when I put my foot into it?
i will
#11
Yep....
see the fuel pressure as what is being USED...so when you stomp it, the press drops for a sec until the pump can catch up. A dip to 35 then leveling back out to near where it was....is pretty normal for a stock pump. 43 is a good number while running @ idle.
see the fuel pressure as what is being USED...so when you stomp it, the press drops for a sec until the pump can catch up. A dip to 35 then leveling back out to near where it was....is pretty normal for a stock pump. 43 is a good number while running @ idle.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
awesome thanks. it was at like 35 before.
#14
Safety Car
A few people already mentioned this but make sure you check for an exhaust leak at the header gasket or a cracked pipe. Exhaust leaks at idle and low RPM can make very loud clacking sounds. It is very easy to miss the leak and assume it is something else.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
there is a leak on the egr pipe that comes off the passenger side exhaust manifold. the recirc line that goes into back of intake manifold....about the size and width of my thumbnail is a cut in the pipe.
....
I can't just JB weld it can I? - was going to use "inferno metal repair" compound, similar to permatex but what I decided to grab at autozone. then rewrap it with some new header tape.
I think there is another leak there at the #8 cylinder, manifold to head. but was going to start with fixing one thing at a time....
stupid question, is that EGR pipe even necessary? can I rip it off/block it off? it just seems to be in the way... lots of wires close by and added heat to my engine compartment etc.
....
I can't just JB weld it can I? - was going to use "inferno metal repair" compound, similar to permatex but what I decided to grab at autozone. then rewrap it with some new header tape.
I think there is another leak there at the #8 cylinder, manifold to head. but was going to start with fixing one thing at a time....
stupid question, is that EGR pipe even necessary? can I rip it off/block it off? it just seems to be in the way... lots of wires close by and added heat to my engine compartment etc.
#16
there is a leak on the egr pipe that comes off the passenger side exhaust manifold. the recirc line that goes into back of intake manifold....about the size and width of my thumbnail is a cut in the pipe.
....
I can't just JB weld it can I? - was going to use "inferno metal repair" compound, similar to permatex but what I decided to grab at autozone. then rewrap it with some new header tape.
I think there is another leak there at the #8 cylinder, manifold to head. but was going to start with fixing one thing at a time....
stupid question, is that EGR pipe even necessary? can I rip it off/block it off? it just seems to be in the way... lots of wires close by and added heat to my engine compartment etc.
....
I can't just JB weld it can I? - was going to use "inferno metal repair" compound, similar to permatex but what I decided to grab at autozone. then rewrap it with some new header tape.
I think there is another leak there at the #8 cylinder, manifold to head. but was going to start with fixing one thing at a time....
stupid question, is that EGR pipe even necessary? can I rip it off/block it off? it just seems to be in the way... lots of wires close by and added heat to my engine compartment etc.
2nd...JB probably will not hold. Way too hot there and there is exhaust gas pressure. Take it to a muffler shop and they will braze up the tube or replace it. See Larry at 20th street auto parts for a shop or maybe even he can do it.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1st.....yes, its necessary. EGR is necessary. Besides, in your state they fail cars for altered emissions equip.
2nd...JB probably will not hold. Way too hot there and there is exhaust gas pressure. Take it to a muffler shop and they will braze up the tube or replace it. See Larry at 20th street auto parts for a shop or maybe even he can do it.
2nd...JB probably will not hold. Way too hot there and there is exhaust gas pressure. Take it to a muffler shop and they will braze up the tube or replace it. See Larry at 20th street auto parts for a shop or maybe even he can do it.
it looks to me quite much like someone purposefully bent the tube one way, then bent it back. to block off the air flow from the exhaust manifold. it is nearly shut on the inside. isn't this just a block recirculating valve, to heat a cold engine block?
#18
good to know, I will leave it intact then! thankyou... for the moment (not that I think it will hold given it is a ceramic) I am going to try that high heat metal repair stuff, then rewrap it with some new header tape.
it looks to me quite much like someone purposefully bent the tube one way, then bent it back. to block off the air flow from the exhaust manifold. it is nearly shut on the inside. isn't this just a block recirculating valve, to heat a cold engine block?
it looks to me quite much like someone purposefully bent the tube one way, then bent it back. to block off the air flow from the exhaust manifold. it is nearly shut on the inside. isn't this just a block recirculating valve, to heat a cold engine block?
this is an important piece of the engin e tune,. EGR stops pistons from rattling apart and melting down from excessive combustion temps. It cools a red hot piston before it melts, so ya, you kinda want it...
Just get it fixed so nobody dies from carbon monoxide leaking into the cabin.Thats your a/c evaporator core 2" left of the EGR tube and its leaks....
#19
Drifting
You might do well to go to a muffler shop to get it welded closed. Those guys MIG thin pipes all day long and that wouldn't take 5 minutes. Probably buy them a six-pack and call it even.
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
NO
this is an important piece of the engin e tune,. EGR stops pistons from rattling apart and melting down from excessive combustion temps. It cools a red hot piston before it melts, so ya, you kinda want it...
Just get it fixed so nobody dies from carbon monoxide leaking into the cabin.Thats your a/c evaporator core 2" left of the EGR tube and its leaks....
this is an important piece of the engin e tune,. EGR stops pistons from rattling apart and melting down from excessive combustion temps. It cools a red hot piston before it melts, so ya, you kinda want it...
Just get it fixed so nobody dies from carbon monoxide leaking into the cabin.Thats your a/c evaporator core 2" left of the EGR tube and its leaks....
was trying to get out of taking off the exhaust manifold. sort of a tight space in there to work in... I recall it taking me a long long time to put the exhaust manifolds back on when I did this 6 or 7 years ago.
Last edited by mistaben; 08-17-2011 at 12:16 AM.