85 Vette huge problem
09-19-2011, 10:45 AM
#62
Race Director
I have a spare distributor I bought for my 85. PN 1102639 on the edge of the base. Numbers are cast in and very faint, these numbers are the best I can read. Rock Auto says all L98's used this distributor. Mystic, I would make it a point to check the numbers on the one you have installed. Some where I have an article which describes how to convert a vacuum advance HEI distributor to an ESC type. Not likely your problem but worth a look.
09-19-2011, 10:57 AM
#63
Drifting
Cliff, very true. Mine has slots for a screwdriver. Let me rephrase...if you cap is "bolted" on with threaded fasteners...........
09-19-2011, 12:30 PM
#64
there IS something to consider in all this miscommunication and back and forth...
At great risk to life & limb, we have to remember that we are dealing with a girl in girl language....
To women..."screwdriver" covers just about any tool with a handle...
I'm sure her (Miss-Styc) skills at communicating more accurate automotive terms will improve as time goes by...
When you know what to call all these Corvette parts, symptoms and syndromes it's easy to loose patience with someone that is not so familiar. As long as we can help, thats all that matters. Another Corvettes life saved is worth the time & effort. 
At great risk to life & limb, we have to remember that we are dealing with a girl in girl language....
To women..."screwdriver" covers just about any tool with a handle...
I'm sure her (Miss-Styc) skills at communicating more accurate automotive terms will improve as time goes by...
When you know what to call all these Corvette parts, symptoms and syndromes it's easy to loose patience with someone that is not so familiar. As long as we can help, thats all that matters. Another Corvettes life saved is worth the time & effort.
09-19-2011, 03:14 PM
#65
Burning Brakes
I have a spare distributor I bought for my 85. PN 1102639 on the edge of the base. Numbers are cast in and very faint, these numbers are the best I can read. Rock Auto says all L98's used this distributor. Mystic, I would make it a point to check the numbers on the one you have installed. Some where I have an article which describes how to convert a vacuum advance HEI distributor to an ESC type. Not likely your problem but worth a look.
09-19-2011, 04:15 PM
#66
Race Director
A part number is the best thing you can have. Even with all of the talk, the distributor right now is pretty much confirmed wrong. It needs to be changed. You can re-run the wires and rebuild the harness all you want, but without the right spark, you are never going to get it right.
Mystic my 85 has the original distributor installed, If you think it will help I'll do a headstand and pull that number for you.
09-20-2011, 11:12 PM
#70
Cruising
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Sorry folks. Had a death in the family that was unexpected and I broke my wrist. Among a few other problems.
I haven't been able to read the posts yet. We did pull codes, which there were none. Went back to the car and looked, asked more questions. The Distributor is original and is the screw on cap. They sold us the clamp (the one I picked up) it was changed, no difference. Today the car started out fine, ran its rear off. After it sat a few hours it started running rough again.
The only way I can explain it, is when you drive a standard and you change gears to early and it jerks. Does it at 21 mph. And the faster you go, the better it gets. As of today all work stops until WE can get family emergencies balanced out. Thanks for all of your help. All of you did give us more info.
I haven't been able to read the posts yet. We did pull codes, which there were none. Went back to the car and looked, asked more questions. The Distributor is original and is the screw on cap. They sold us the clamp (the one I picked up) it was changed, no difference. Today the car started out fine, ran its rear off. After it sat a few hours it started running rough again.
The only way I can explain it, is when you drive a standard and you change gears to early and it jerks. Does it at 21 mph. And the faster you go, the better it gets. As of today all work stops until WE can get family emergencies balanced out. Thanks for all of your help. All of you did give us more info.
09-21-2011, 03:48 AM
#71
Burning Brakes
Sorry folks. Had a death in the family that was unexpected and I broke my wrist. Among a few other problems.
I haven't been able to read the posts yet. We did pull codes, which there were none. Went back to the car and looked, asked more questions. The Distributor is original and is the screw on cap. They sold us the clamp (the one I picked up) it was changed, no difference. Today the car started out fine, ran its rear off. After it sat a few hours it started running rough again.
The only way I can explain it, is when you drive a standard and you change gears to early and it jerks. Does it at 21 mph. And the faster you go, the better it gets. As of today all work stops until WE can get family emergencies balanced out. Thanks for all of your help. All of you did give us more info.
I haven't been able to read the posts yet. We did pull codes, which there were none. Went back to the car and looked, asked more questions. The Distributor is original and is the screw on cap. They sold us the clamp (the one I picked up) it was changed, no difference. Today the car started out fine, ran its rear off. After it sat a few hours it started running rough again.
The only way I can explain it, is when you drive a standard and you change gears to early and it jerks. Does it at 21 mph. And the faster you go, the better it gets. As of today all work stops until WE can get family emergencies balanced out. Thanks for all of your help. All of you did give us more info.
When you say "it sat for a few hours", do you mean that it was running, or off?
If it was running for a couple of hours, this sounds like it's a heat related issue. It could be something as simple as your coolant sensor acting up or as bad as warped heads.
What is your engine temp when the problem starts? Is is consistant?
If it was sitting off for a few hours, I'm thinking some kind of leak. Possibly the fuel injectors? What does the exhaust smell like for the first minute or so when it's doing this? Does it get better when it's driven for awhile?
Just a thought though, make sure your distro hold down fork is tight, pull the variable timing wire and check timing for 6*
Last edited by navy_vette; 09-21-2011 at 04:12 AM.
06-07-2015, 01:47 PM
#72
1st Gear
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Hi all
I have come to this forum often and let me say, you all have helped. But I need more help from other Vette owners and enthusiast.
I recently purchased an 85 C4 350. Thinking L98. Not sure. Before I go further, let me tell you I am engine stupid. What I know is what we have done, and that's about it.
When we bought it, it ran hard. Jumping, idled all wrong, sounded like crud. So we bought it to fix it up. We started with the full tune up: oil change, filter change, radiator flush, new wires and plugs, new cap and rotor as well as water pump for good measure.
That seemed to mellow the car out, as it did have the wrong distributor cap. I have put more than 4000 miles on it in 4 months. As time went by, new problems emerged. As we fixed one, another was created.
Let me keep it short, and tell you that as of now, the car idles hard, Dies sometimes. Hard to crank. CHUGGS! at certain speeds or certain shifts it starts chugging. Sometimes so hard it hurts. Other times the car cranks fine, runs fine, and the tires will cut loose and leave rubber.
Now let me tell you what we have done. Some in other fixes, and the rest with this problem.
Replaced ECU, upgraded spark plugs and wires (ac delco) MAP, MAF, IAC valve , o2 sensor and knock sensor. Entire fuel system, rail, injectors, pump, filter, wires to pump, cold start, timing chain and cover, throttle position sensor, throttle body. Took off exhaust at motor to make sure is clear of debris and no issue with catalytic converter. Took out air system, removed the radiator and cleaned out debris around that area. Checked and replaced vacuum lines. Checked compression (160-165) checked psi on fuel (39 psi all 8 pulsate hard) Deleted EGR valve. No difference with that.
I am sure we have done more, it seems so much in so little time. This problem started as we fixed another problem. The car started chugging and rattling. It sounded like a weak powerstroke. So we flushed the fuel system, went to premium fuel, changed the entire fuel system. Now the chugging is still there, but it feels like the car wants to go but something is choking it. I can feel the engine respond but it doesn't go further than that. At idle it seems to lope, but not a natural lope. As I am not mechanically inclined, I am frustrated and about to drive the car to a cave!
Any suggestions would be awesome! And thanks in advance!
I have come to this forum often and let me say, you all have helped. But I need more help from other Vette owners and enthusiast.
I recently purchased an 85 C4 350. Thinking L98. Not sure. Before I go further, let me tell you I am engine stupid. What I know is what we have done, and that's about it.
When we bought it, it ran hard. Jumping, idled all wrong, sounded like crud. So we bought it to fix it up. We started with the full tune up: oil change, filter change, radiator flush, new wires and plugs, new cap and rotor as well as water pump for good measure.
That seemed to mellow the car out, as it did have the wrong distributor cap. I have put more than 4000 miles on it in 4 months. As time went by, new problems emerged. As we fixed one, another was created.
Let me keep it short, and tell you that as of now, the car idles hard, Dies sometimes. Hard to crank. CHUGGS! at certain speeds or certain shifts it starts chugging. Sometimes so hard it hurts. Other times the car cranks fine, runs fine, and the tires will cut loose and leave rubber.
Now let me tell you what we have done. Some in other fixes, and the rest with this problem.
Replaced ECU, upgraded spark plugs and wires (ac delco) MAP, MAF, IAC valve , o2 sensor and knock sensor. Entire fuel system, rail, injectors, pump, filter, wires to pump, cold start, timing chain and cover, throttle position sensor, throttle body. Took off exhaust at motor to make sure is clear of debris and no issue with catalytic converter. Took out air system, removed the radiator and cleaned out debris around that area. Checked and replaced vacuum lines. Checked compression (160-165) checked psi on fuel (39 psi all 8 pulsate hard) Deleted EGR valve. No difference with that.
I am sure we have done more, it seems so much in so little time. This problem started as we fixed another problem. The car started chugging and rattling. It sounded like a weak powerstroke. So we flushed the fuel system, went to premium fuel, changed the entire fuel system. Now the chugging is still there, but it feels like the car wants to go but something is choking it. I can feel the engine respond but it doesn't go further than that. At idle it seems to lope, but not a natural lope. As I am not mechanically inclined, I am frustrated and about to drive the car to a cave!
Any suggestions would be awesome! And thanks in advance!
06-07-2015, 02:02 PM
#73
Drifting
Isn't more like nearly 4 years old?
06-07-2015, 09:43 PM
#75
Drifting
06-07-2015, 11:27 PM
#77
Drifting
As for these threads, I dunno what's going on lately. It seems that a lot of these threads that should be RIP are being resurrected to become zombie threads. I guess reading isn't fundamental anymore.
06-11-2015, 07:33 AM
#78
I personally love the threads where several extremely knowledgeable people give solid advice over days / weeks, and the OP ignores it or throws parts at it...but comes around in the end.
