Rear Carrier Bushing Sleeve Help
11-24-2011, 04:17 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Rear Carrier Bushing Sleeve Help
So I am trying to replace my rear carrier bushings. I have the bushing out and now I am working on the sleeve. I am worried about cutting too much. The part of the metal sleeve that is towards the front of the car is obvious. On the rear part, it is not so obvious where the separation is between the carrier and the sleeve. Is the "flange" at the rear part of the sleeve or the carrier? In other words, is the sleeve flanged or not flanged? I don't want to cut too much and damage the carrier. Does anybody have a picture of a new carrier bushing sleeve, or an old one they took out? Thanks.
--Calvin
--Calvin
11-24-2011, 04:30 PM
#2
Instructor
Thread Starter
OK, so I figured it out. Unfortunately I put about a 10 mil deep scratch in the carrier surface with the sawzall. I am assuming that this is pretty benign and I should just smooth it out a bit and not worry about it. Correct? *fingers crossed*
11-25-2011, 12:39 AM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
I anticipate that the right hand side will take only about 45 minutes to an hour now that I know the routine, in addition to the probably 1.5 hrs to take the suspension apart on that side now that I know the drill. All in all, I think it would take a good weekend to do the whole rear end rebuild if it was your first time and you had all the tools and parts. Some of the bushings were on back-order so I am kind of doing it in the order of the pieces I have for re-assembly. This is one of those rare jobs where re-assembly takes less time than disassembly. Definitely buy a shop press from Harbor Freight if you plan on replacing all your bushings. The only reason I did the batwing in the car is because it was not a wise trade from a time perspective to pull the whole thing. Hope that helps.
11-25-2011, 08:52 AM
#5
Race Director
It depends. I am replacing all of the rear bushings in the car. It took me about 2.5 hrs to take apart the whole left hand side. With that whole side taken apart it took me about 1.5 hrs to take the bolt out of the left hand carrier bushing, lower the carrier to provide access to the bushing, and then drill the bushing a bunch to soften it up with a 1/4" bit, construct a home-made "tool" with a piece of exhaust pipe, a metal block, and a c-clamp to help press the bushing out, remove the bushing and the sleeve. The install is only about 10 minutes.
I anticipate that the right hand side will take only about 45 minutes to an hour now that I know the routine, in addition to the probably 1.5 hrs to take the suspension apart on that side now that I know the drill. All in all, I think it would take a good weekend to do the whole rear end rebuild if it was your first time and you had all the tools and parts. Some of the bushings were on back-order so I am kind of doing it in the order of the pieces I have for re-assembly. This is one of those rare jobs where re-assembly takes less time than disassembly. Definitely buy a shop press from Harbor Freight if you plan on replacing all your bushings. The only reason I did the batwing in the car is because it was not a wise trade from a time perspective to pull the whole thing. Hope that helps.
I anticipate that the right hand side will take only about 45 minutes to an hour now that I know the routine, in addition to the probably 1.5 hrs to take the suspension apart on that side now that I know the drill. All in all, I think it would take a good weekend to do the whole rear end rebuild if it was your first time and you had all the tools and parts. Some of the bushings were on back-order so I am kind of doing it in the order of the pieces I have for re-assembly. This is one of those rare jobs where re-assembly takes less time than disassembly. Definitely buy a shop press from Harbor Freight if you plan on replacing all your bushings. The only reason I did the batwing in the car is because it was not a wise trade from a time perspective to pull the whole thing. Hope that helps.
Everytime I accelerate/decelerate, the shift **** moves up and down about 1/8" to 1/4". You cant feel it, but if you watch it it moves.
Other guys with the same suspension mods as me do not have any movement. My mods are: beam plates, banski rod end rear suspension, DRM relocated trailing arm and camber brackets.
I know typically shifter movt is due to a loose c-beam, but my bolts are ultra right, nothing is cracked, and I didnt have shifter movt before I did all the mods named above.
