dt#2

Evening all. I need some advice on what flexplate should I get. the engine builder did not provide one with the finished motor. I had contaced summit looking for a 153 tooth externally balanced one to go with this motor. I know since the stroker concept included swapping the crank to a 400, most go with a 168 tooth externally balanced one. If I opt to go with what Summit has for a 153 tooth, it will be a $400+ investment and they would have to special order it. My other option I would assume would be to just go with the 168 tooth one and get the applicable starter for that. I have a 2-piece rear main as well.

The other question is valve covers. will the stock height work with the 1.6 rockers or should I (can I) use the tall ones? I don't want aany clearence issues with the AC compressor or altenator nor the windshield wiper motor on the firewall. I don't think there will be any issues with the ALT or AC but just not sure about the valve cover height on the rear of the motor.

cumbercr

$400 for a flex plate seems pretty steep. I got a 153 tooth internal balance from Summit for $85 and it is SFI rated.

On the valve covers, most tall covers will have a slight interference with the wiper control. I took a grinder to the corner of the valve cover to resolve it. It doesn't show. The other interference I had was between the 1.6 rockers and the side of the valve cover. On those rockers that are not exactly perpendicular you will get the interference. I used a grinder there as well.

vetteoz

Would be cheaper option.

153 tooth was mainly used because of flywheel fitment in the bellhousing on stick cars so for consistency they used same size on auto flex plates
May need mini style starter that can be clocked for exh clearance as starter will be outboard a fraction compared to stock 153 unit

dt#2

I can go with either set up... just wanted to know what will work. from what I am hearing it would be best to with an exteranlly balanced flexplate since the crank is external. That is where the problem is. I know Summit was blowing smoke up my @#$ when he said that so I just hung up on him. Will the 168 tooth variant work with fitment of the bellhousing torque converter, etc? TC is a 10 inch stall. I thought I would need a different style starter anyway since I am going to run some long tube headers.

vetteoz

You don't get a choice;
(unless you want engine vibrations) flexplate balance has to be same as engine balance

Assuming your stroker crank is based on a 400 crank and is true "EXT" balance
( not 1 pce seal so called Ext balance crank ) then you need a OEM 400 style flexplate

cumbercr

The stock starter on an 85 will not interfere with headers. I'm running TPiS headers on mine. You will need to wrap the wires to protect them from the heat.

vetteoz

But a 168 tooth starter he needs sits 3/4" further out from the block than the stock 153 tooth starter

dt#2

I am opting to go with the 168 tooth flexplate and compatible mini starter since I don't know how old this one is anyway. It definitley looks like a reman but not sure when it was done. The 400 crank is a true ext balance as I just spoke with the builder again just to make sure. Also I looked at the HB and I can see its designed as a counterweighted balancer. Thanks for the advise as well on the header clearance issue. I was looking at some TPISs or Hooker 2151s that would go good. I had asked about them in a different post last week.

383vett

Before you go out and buy a flexplate, check with your builder to see whether the motor is internally or externally balanced. You need to be 100% sure before you go through the work and expense of installing the wrong flywheel.