Clutch pedal pivot bushing replacement from underneath
03-25-2012, 01:54 PM
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Clutch pedal pivot bushing replacement from underneath
I just replaced my clutch pedal bushing on an '84 4+3 with 123,000 miles on it. I had initially thought it could only be done from above after taking the entire instrument panel out and the first time I tried from underneath I thought there was no way. But since I had my steering column out I took another look at it and was able to do it.
When I first got the car the pedal squeaked horribly and felt like metal on metal so I assumed the plastic pivot bushing for the pedal was shot (this turned out to be wrong). I had lubed it temporarily with white lithium spray lube - the noise actually improved with time after I lubed it and went away completely after say 3,000 miles. There's actually 2 points that need lube, the pivot bushing and the pin that pushes the clutch cylinder forward.
When I got the pedal out I found that the plastic pivot bushings were in good shape and in fact quite well lubed - the thinning agent in the lithium lube probably "woke up" the old grease. The pin which drives the cylinder was worn about 1/16th of an inch on the forward face. It's metal on metal contact on an '84. I brazed some bronze in there to make it up then filed it down even. There was no wear on the cylinder pushrod open end that goes on the pivot. Before brazing take out the little rubber grommet for the cruise control linkage.
Getting the pedal in and out was a PITA but here's how I did it:
The steering column was out.
Take the cushion off the seat for more room. I used one of those Jeepers Creepers work under the dashboard boards that's like a stationary creeper to put the pedal back in but not to take it out.
Pull the vacuum switch for the clutch pedal out of the way and disconnect the tube that goes from the firewall to the switch - push the tube out of the way.
Take the black tubular instrument panel brace out.
There's a metal switch? with a screw holding it onto the wire entrance from the firewall - take that switch out for hand room - you can fit your hand between the harness and the outside left body then.
Disconnect both the pushrod for the cylinder and the link to the cruise switch from the pedal.
Use a 15mm socket on the smallest 3/8 breaker bar you have (no room for a ratchet head - or a dog-bone wrench might work) to hold the nut which is out by the body left side where you can't see it. You can tie the breaker bar to the wiring harness to keep it still. Use a 15mm open end wrench to loosen the bolt which you CAN see. Remove the bolt, the pedal comes down.
When you put the pedal back in tape the pedal spring to the pedal where it hooks over it to keep it in place - the spring is no big deal going back in as long as its taped like I said - it only hooks on one end, he other end just contacts the pedal support.
I had to take a coat hanger, wrap it around the head of the bolt and tape it in place on the bolt with the hanger looped to make a handle about 12" long. I was then able to get the pedal in place, see when I had its hole lined up ith the hole in the support and slip the end of the bolt in.....Eureka!!!!!!
But the bushing was really OK. But at least now I know for sure. I think the cylinder rod end should be lubed frequently to reduce wear at that point.
When I first got the car the pedal squeaked horribly and felt like metal on metal so I assumed the plastic pivot bushing for the pedal was shot (this turned out to be wrong). I had lubed it temporarily with white lithium spray lube - the noise actually improved with time after I lubed it and went away completely after say 3,000 miles. There's actually 2 points that need lube, the pivot bushing and the pin that pushes the clutch cylinder forward.
When I got the pedal out I found that the plastic pivot bushings were in good shape and in fact quite well lubed - the thinning agent in the lithium lube probably "woke up" the old grease. The pin which drives the cylinder was worn about 1/16th of an inch on the forward face. It's metal on metal contact on an '84. I brazed some bronze in there to make it up then filed it down even. There was no wear on the cylinder pushrod open end that goes on the pivot. Before brazing take out the little rubber grommet for the cruise control linkage.
Getting the pedal in and out was a PITA but here's how I did it:
The steering column was out.
Take the cushion off the seat for more room. I used one of those Jeepers Creepers work under the dashboard boards that's like a stationary creeper to put the pedal back in but not to take it out.
Pull the vacuum switch for the clutch pedal out of the way and disconnect the tube that goes from the firewall to the switch - push the tube out of the way.
Take the black tubular instrument panel brace out.
There's a metal switch? with a screw holding it onto the wire entrance from the firewall - take that switch out for hand room - you can fit your hand between the harness and the outside left body then.
Disconnect both the pushrod for the cylinder and the link to the cruise switch from the pedal.
Use a 15mm socket on the smallest 3/8 breaker bar you have (no room for a ratchet head - or a dog-bone wrench might work) to hold the nut which is out by the body left side where you can't see it. You can tie the breaker bar to the wiring harness to keep it still. Use a 15mm open end wrench to loosen the bolt which you CAN see. Remove the bolt, the pedal comes down.
When you put the pedal back in tape the pedal spring to the pedal where it hooks over it to keep it in place - the spring is no big deal going back in as long as its taped like I said - it only hooks on one end, he other end just contacts the pedal support.
I had to take a coat hanger, wrap it around the head of the bolt and tape it in place on the bolt with the hanger looped to make a handle about 12" long. I was then able to get the pedal in place, see when I had its hole lined up ith the hole in the support and slip the end of the bolt in.....Eureka!!!!!!
But the bushing was really OK. But at least now I know for sure. I think the cylinder rod end should be lubed frequently to reduce wear at that point.
Last edited by ProjectC4; 03-26-2012 at 02:33 PM.
