1988 starts for 2 secs n shuts off. ECM?
#1
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1988 starts for 2 secs n shuts off. ECM?
Sup guys, I've read bunch of the no start threads and have done most of trouble shooting I just did the headgasket n now encountering a no start
It sat for 6 months...
Things I've tried, it turns on for 2 secs but it seems that fuel stops being fed
Noid light to injectors:good
New dizzy,coil cap n rotor
New spark plugs.
New fuel pump and filter
Timing is good.
I cranks and will start but dies after seconds
Don't think vats cause Uris cranks and fires.
I did change the oil pressure sender from autozone, it's not a black one like suggested but it's new... Idk if that matters these days. Before I throw an ECM at it id like some suggestions.
It sat for 6 months...
Things I've tried, it turns on for 2 secs but it seems that fuel stops being fed
Noid light to injectors:good
New dizzy,coil cap n rotor
New spark plugs.
New fuel pump and filter
Timing is good.
I cranks and will start but dies after seconds
Don't think vats cause Uris cranks and fires.
I did change the oil pressure sender from autozone, it's not a black one like suggested but it's new... Idk if that matters these days. Before I throw an ECM at it id like some suggestions.
#3
Race Director
Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what it reads as you key on (wait a couple of seconds for the fuel rail to pressurize) and then start the engine.
#4
Even if everything is new , if you have no pressure maintained at the rails , it will not run
If the oil pressure switch is correct and working it will run the fuel pump even if the ECM doesn't
#5
Le Mans Master
....... The oil pressure switch should keep the fuel pump running ... but this is intended to be a back-up ... the ECM is not "sensing " that the engine is running ... what distributor did you install ? Possibly the ignition control module ............
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Thank u for the response guys. Fuel pressure is 40@ rails and holds pressure. It seems like it will burn the gas in the rail then stops feeding fuel. The icm is new as well as the dizzy. I tried another icm no good. Oil pressure switch and ECM seems like the only parts in the start up sequence, that I havent changed. I did eliminate the egr and sensors, and haven't tuned it out of the prom. But I don't think this would cause a no start. I'll try a new oil press switch
#8
Race Director
The ECM turns on the fuel pump (through the fuel pump relay) for 2 seconds when you turn on the ignition to pressurize the fuel rails for starting. It turns off the fuel pump so it won't run continuously if you turn on the ignition but don't start the car.
The ECM will turn on the fuel pump when it sees distributor reference pulses from the ignition module. If this fails, the oil pressure switch will turn on the fuel pump when it sees 4-5 PSI of oil pressure. The oil pressure switch goes through the normally-closed contacts of the fuel pump relay and the relay must be OFF for this to work.
The ECM will not fire the injectors if it doesn't see distributor reference pulses. It uses them to synchronize the injectors to the ignition pulses. The fact that the engine fires says all of the above is OK.
The only other thing I can think of offhand is that if the TPS is unplugged or bad the ECM will think you're in "clear flood" mode and will not fire the injectors. You should be seeing 0.54 volts on the center wire of the TPS (with it plugged in, throttle closed). The engine can be running to do this test or just turn on the ignition (which is a lot better because you don't have belts and pulleys moving around while you're trying to work).
The ECM will turn on the fuel pump when it sees distributor reference pulses from the ignition module. If this fails, the oil pressure switch will turn on the fuel pump when it sees 4-5 PSI of oil pressure. The oil pressure switch goes through the normally-closed contacts of the fuel pump relay and the relay must be OFF for this to work.
The ECM will not fire the injectors if it doesn't see distributor reference pulses. It uses them to synchronize the injectors to the ignition pulses. The fact that the engine fires says all of the above is OK.
The only other thing I can think of offhand is that if the TPS is unplugged or bad the ECM will think you're in "clear flood" mode and will not fire the injectors. You should be seeing 0.54 volts on the center wire of the TPS (with it plugged in, throttle closed). The engine can be running to do this test or just turn on the ignition (which is a lot better because you don't have belts and pulleys moving around while you're trying to work).
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 06-06-2012 at 12:28 AM.
#10
#11
Le Mans Master
Does it restart right away? Does it run okay once it is warmed up?
If this is the case, try disconnecting the tan est wire, the one you disconnect to set timing. Once disconnected start the engine and see if it stays running. If it does then you have a bad pickup module in the distributor.
If this is the case, try disconnecting the tan est wire, the one you disconnect to set timing. Once disconnected start the engine and see if it stays running. If it does then you have a bad pickup module in the distributor.
#14
Burning Brakes
Sup guys, I've read bunch of the no start threads and have done most of trouble shooting I just did the headgasket n now encountering a no start
It sat for 6 months...
Things I've tried, it turns on for 2 secs but it seems that fuel stops being fed
Noid light to injectors:good
New dizzy,coil cap n rotor
New spark plugs.
New fuel pump and filter
Timing is good.
I cranks and will start but dies after seconds
Don't think vats cause Uris cranks and fires.
I did change the oil pressure sender from autozone, it's not a black one like suggested but it's new... Idk if that matters these days. Before I throw an ECM at it id like some suggestions.
It sat for 6 months...
Things I've tried, it turns on for 2 secs but it seems that fuel stops being fed
Noid light to injectors:good
New dizzy,coil cap n rotor
New spark plugs.
New fuel pump and filter
Timing is good.
I cranks and will start but dies after seconds
Don't think vats cause Uris cranks and fires.
I did change the oil pressure sender from autozone, it's not a black one like suggested but it's new... Idk if that matters these days. Before I throw an ECM at it id like some suggestions.
as one post said, possibly defective pickup, IF it will run with the est disconnected.
forget the ol pressure switch. it is not mentioned in my FSM as a solution or a root cause for even one issue. It is BACKUP, as several people mentioned, in case the fp relay fails. if you have 40 pounds, the pump is working, thru the relay.
joe
#15
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#18