dr_cranii

The Car won't start.. It turns over, but as soon It catches it stops like there is a resistance. ( when main cable removed from coil - car turns over without resistance and steady. Starter doesn't stop. )


There is a strong spark on sparkplug, checked only one though.

There is a strong and steady spark at the ignition coil.

Voltmeter shows same voltage as battery at the ICM ternimals A and D.

Codes stored in car:

1.C12

4.---

9.H64

1.0

Which means - clean, no codes.


WHAT HAPPENED:

I had upper radiator hose leak after which I had rough idle. Washed the engine.. Car won't start, but wd-40 did it's magic. Sprayed some on top of opti and it started easy. Drove for few days, with rough idle sometimes.

Decided to pull opti and clean inside.
Now I cleaned opti and found place where water could get it.. (top screw thread was gone and cap wasn't tight. Fixed!) everything clean and nice, no cracks in case or cap. And everything is dry.
Cap and rotor were replaced recently. ( maybe year or two ago, car was sitting in garage though and terminals had some crad on them. Lightly scuffed with finest sandpaper. Fixed now! )
Installed new sparkplug wires 8mm taylor. ( routed correctly, quadriplechecked ).
Replaced the battery.
Cleaned idle control valve.
Cleaned throttle position sensor.
Put liberal amount of silicone dielectric grease in plug boots and all electric connectors that go to opti and TPS and Ignition coil, temp sensor etc.

I have 95 LT1 160k and original opti that has been through few engine wahes and coolant leaks. And was sometimes acting a little strange.. car would not have strong power sometimes and sometimes with A/C on it would have slightly rough idle. But at the same time - some days it was great.

What should i do? Could it be because of dielectric grease? ( which should protect from oxidation and make better contact )
What is it? Opti? ICM?

65Z01

-clip a timing light onto a spark plug wire to see if getting spark while cranking
-use a FP gauge to check for fast FP bleed down
-clip a test light onto the injestors to see if they are firing properly

Hopefully someone can help with those OBD-II codes.

If nothing shows, run a pressure check on the cylinders; this would show up a timing chain problem.

dr_cranii

It seems like fuel pump is working fine. It smells like gas when I crankit for some time. And i've tried spraying ether in intake. Same...

Not sure about timing chain since the no start condition appeared only after i washed the engine. And first time wd-40 helped, but second time i washed off all the coolant it didn't help. And before disassembling opti i've tried to start the car and it didn't start.

dr_cranii

I pulledone spark plug out. It has strong spark. And it isn't completely dry, so fuel is getting there.

dr_cranii

I've checked them out and c12 means that there is no codes. And h64 is history. I believe 64 is something like lean mixture at left bank oxy sensor. But again it is history not current. And most likely because i've tried to start it for long time.

dr_cranii

I've got my new Delphi optispark with mitsubishi sensor in it. Installed and it fired right up!
But it triggered whole bunch of other problems..
All parts in place, connected except MAF. Car starts but idling at 1800rpm and "service soon" light is on and "ASR Service" with "ASR off".
Pulled all codes from her. I've got

4. H22 and H48 ( h22 - throttle position sensor, 48 is MAF ).

Installed MAF - still same story..

While driving home I've noticed that it doesn't shift to 4th gear unless I floor it.. And when it shifts, it jerks car forward.

Tried to clear codes, still sane. Tried to adjusr ASR cable - no luck...
What is it? Bad opti?