Road Racing Guys Oil systems Q&A
#1
Drifting
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Road Racing Guys Oil systems Q&A
I'd ask this on the Road racing forum, but C4 questions sometimes just.... sort of die... sad.
The Question is: " If you have a remote filter and cooler AND and Accusump.. is there any reason to keep the Pressure By pass?"
My answer is: NO. No point. Accusump oils [ 3 quarts worth if needed] at start up while pump is busy pressurizing all the plumbing.
Partner disagrees.
Thoughts and opinions
The Question is: " If you have a remote filter and cooler AND and Accusump.. is there any reason to keep the Pressure By pass?"
My answer is: NO. No point. Accusump oils [ 3 quarts worth if needed] at start up while pump is busy pressurizing all the plumbing.
Partner disagrees.
Thoughts and opinions
#2
Race Director
#3
Drifting
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The bypass is out, system plumbed zero oil pressure when spinning the motor wo plugs... zip... EEK.....
partner says that's what the bypass does... Think not but no oil pressure is a buzz kill on the brand new motor. Can't find the bloody priming tool so the days was shot.
Last edited by TJM; 08-19-2012 at 02:20 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
It usually takes a second or two to prime the pump with a drill motor. I lube the gears heavy with assy lube and pre fill the filter. Try to minimise cranking w/ a flat tappet cam.
good luck n let us know how it goes.
good luck n let us know how it goes.
#5
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If your accusump is pressurized and filled prior to starting the engine, it should do a pretty decent prime. I will say, though, that with the Accusumps I've used, we always had the car running before we opened the manual valve to the Accusump, and shut the valve prior to turning off the engine.
When I primed my engine (prior to the first start) in my RR car I rand the drill a good 20 seconds to make sure everything was good and lubed. I also checked for oil pressure. My Craftsman 19.2 volt cordless was able to put out 25 psi.
When I primed my engine (prior to the first start) in my RR car I rand the drill a good 20 seconds to make sure everything was good and lubed. I also checked for oil pressure. My Craftsman 19.2 volt cordless was able to put out 25 psi.
#6
Burning Brakes
To clarify; a second or two to get pressure. It takes a while to get cold oil through the lifters and up to the rockers. Then at full pressure turn the engine a couple revolutions to get oil through the crank to all the rods. The drill motor should take quite a load, if it dos not load up and build pressure find that pipe plug that got forgotten, been there n done that, dooh!
Last edited by Crepitus; 08-21-2012 at 01:03 AM.
#7
IMHO - The oil bypass valve needs to go - immediately if not sooner - on any track only vehicle. The purpose of the oil pressure bypass valve (the little odd shaped thing sitting just above the oil filter - is to allow oil to bypass the filter when there is too much pressure drop aross the filter. The problem is that those valves allow oil to bypass the filter when the presure drop is around 5 psi. Sorry - but that's just too low. In a stock type vehicle that may be driven by people who think that going 15,000 miles between oil changes is saving them money - I can understand it, but not on a track vehicle where oil will be changed frequently, and where a driver should know what kind of oil pressure to expect with warm oil.
Now - let's talk about the lack of oil pressure. If you installed a lot of plumbing in the oil system - it will take a fair armount of time at cranking speed to fill up the lines with oil before any pressure can be developed. Same with a new oil filter (I highly recommend prefilling all new filters.) You say you have an accusump installed - obviously it doesn't come pressurized, so initially - turn the valve on the oil supply line to the accusump off. The way to fill an accusump is slowly when the engine is running (try not to let the oil pressure drop by more than 5 psi while the accusump is filling) - if you have a ball valve on the input - this will require just cracking the valve and watching the pressure gage.
If you can't find your oil pump priming tool - if you have a large "sacrificial" screwdriver - you can just cut off the screwdriver shank and use that in a drill motor - it will be difficult to keep the screwdriver shank engaged with the oil pump driveshaft - but it can be done...
Whatever you do - DO NOT light the motor until you have verified that you have oil pressure.
Now - let's talk about the lack of oil pressure. If you installed a lot of plumbing in the oil system - it will take a fair armount of time at cranking speed to fill up the lines with oil before any pressure can be developed. Same with a new oil filter (I highly recommend prefilling all new filters.) You say you have an accusump installed - obviously it doesn't come pressurized, so initially - turn the valve on the oil supply line to the accusump off. The way to fill an accusump is slowly when the engine is running (try not to let the oil pressure drop by more than 5 psi while the accusump is filling) - if you have a ball valve on the input - this will require just cracking the valve and watching the pressure gage.
If you can't find your oil pump priming tool - if you have a large "sacrificial" screwdriver - you can just cut off the screwdriver shank and use that in a drill motor - it will be difficult to keep the screwdriver shank engaged with the oil pump driveshaft - but it can be done...
Whatever you do - DO NOT light the motor until you have verified that you have oil pressure.
#8
Race Director
To clarify; a second or two to get pressure. It takes a while to get cold oil through the lifters and up to the rockers. Then at full pressure turn the engine a couple revolutions to get oil through the crank to all the rods. The drill motor should take quite a load, if it dos not load up and build pressure find that pipe plug that got forgotten, been there n done that, dooh!