Clutch Pedal Does Tricks
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clutch Pedal Does Tricks
This winter I plan on doing a couple of needed maintenance items on the trusty 1994 six speed coupe. One thing that has popped to the head of the list is a "phantom" movement of the clutch pedal upon down shifting and deacceleration. I can feel the pedal drop and then come back up on it's own when in this situation. After searching this forum, i have decided against replacement master and slave cylinders. Instead, i have on my end a high quality brake shop that can rebuild these items along with brake calipers, etc...But, a few questions before i dive into this project. Has anyone had any luck simply rebuilding the master and slave and not replacing? If a replacement is needed, I want to try my best to stay away from the Chinese built ones. I will not be driving too much with this condition going on as I have researched with the ZFdoc, and I do not want to risk hurting the transmission. Between them and the trusty FSM, I should have a pretty good shot of doing this myself. One more question before I go...Waht is the best tool for reverse bleeding/filling of the slave and master cylinder?
Thanks for all replies,
Cessnaguy
Thanks for all replies,
Cessnaguy
#2
Safety Car
For reverse bleeding I use a pump oil can, as long as it is full and you don't tip it you can attach a plastic or rubber hose to the pump can and attach the other end on the bleeder.
I used a 96 slave on my 90, the later model slave has the bleed screw on top, and bleeds very easy.
On my car it was in a very difficult place to get at I used a 1/4" ratchet and short socket and only had very little space to work in.
If you are going to do a clutch, on your car, make sure you bleed the slave before you put the exhaust back up
I used a 96 slave on my 90, the later model slave has the bleed screw on top, and bleeds very easy.
On my car it was in a very difficult place to get at I used a 1/4" ratchet and short socket and only had very little space to work in.
If you are going to do a clutch, on your car, make sure you bleed the slave before you put the exhaust back up
#3
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
You can also "back bleed" the system by filling the reservoir, then taping on the clutch pedal barely. Not even an inch. Do that repeatedly and the air bubbles rise to the top, and are expelled out the reservoir.
#4
Burning Brakes
I use a Phoenix Bleeder on mine; you can purge all of the air out of the bleeder and in a few short pumps have the clutch hydraulics bled out as well. They are not cheep but make brake work much easier as well. Just my .02
#5
try this guy if you need a rebuilder, he offers a service to rebuild yours
Jim Jandik
Power Torque Systems, L.C.
www.powertorquesystems.com
Jim Jandik
Power Torque Systems, L.C.
www.powertorquesystems.com
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
THANKS blue94, this is exactly what I was looking for. I have a good feeling about this guy and his business because he specializes in the C4 Corvette and the hydraulics. I have not had a chance to contact him yet, but I can assume it is either an exchange program, or I remove mine and send it over to him. Either way, I hope to breath even more reliability and life into Apollo, the six speed coupe!!