How To: Change the ignition lock on a 1989 C4.
10-30-2012, 12:56 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
How To: Change the ignition lock on a 1989 C4.
WVZR1 has provided a fantastic how-to on disassembly of an air bag equipped C4 steering column. But the earlier models are slightly different and I thought I'd provide a little how-to on the subject.
First, a schematic of the assembly for reference:
1. Remove the horn button. Pull. Then, disconnect the horn wire. It's a bayonet style, push and turn.
2. Remove two locking screws, the star screw, and the telescope lever.
3. Remove the snap-ring and steering wheel retaining nut (#1).
4. Attach your steering wheel puller and pull the wheel. My Craftsman brand steering wheel puller did not include 5/16-18 bolts long enough to use on the early C4's deep wheel. I purchased two 6" threaded rods from Lowes with appropriate nuts and washers to compensate.
6. Remove a set of spacers, small(#2) - large(#3) - small(#4). Remove the lock ring retainer(#5). This part is brittle.
7. Remove the lock plate ring(#6) and lock plate(#7). To do this, you'll need to lock the telescoping steering shaft before you install your lock plate removal tool. The Craftsman tool allows for the use of a 5/16-18 3/4" socket-cap bolt installed, if your lock plate tool doesn't have enough clearance a 5/16-18 set screw will also work. The lock plate ring(#6) slides up out of it's groove, so install your lock plate removal tool appropriately.
8. Remove the horn contact pass-through plate(#8).
9. Set your turn signal to "right" (push up) to get the turn signal cam out of the way of it's retaining screws. Remove the stalk pivot screw(#11), hazard button, and cam retaining screws (#10). This will free up the cam, but you will not be able to remove it since we're not disconnecting the wires for this exercise.
10. Push the cam down, and use needle nose pliers to remove the horn contact arm(#16). When reinstalling later, there is a black spring arm that goes on top of this piece. So push it up when reinstalling.
11. Using a 7/64 allen wrench, remove the ignition lock retaining screw(#18). You'll need to fully remove the screw, I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
The fruits of your labors.
12. I didn't feel like rewiring the car, so I spliced the new VATS wires into the old. Carefully feed the wires into the notch at the 9 o'clock position when reinstalling.
13. Put the assembly back together. Just follow these steps backwards. Replace anything you broke along the way.
First, a schematic of the assembly for reference:
1. Remove the horn button. Pull. Then, disconnect the horn wire. It's a bayonet style, push and turn.
2. Remove two locking screws, the star screw, and the telescope lever.
3. Remove the snap-ring and steering wheel retaining nut (#1).
4. Attach your steering wheel puller and pull the wheel. My Craftsman brand steering wheel puller did not include 5/16-18 bolts long enough to use on the early C4's deep wheel. I purchased two 6" threaded rods from Lowes with appropriate nuts and washers to compensate.
6. Remove a set of spacers, small(#2) - large(#3) - small(#4). Remove the lock ring retainer(#5). This part is brittle.
7. Remove the lock plate ring(#6) and lock plate(#7). To do this, you'll need to lock the telescoping steering shaft before you install your lock plate removal tool. The Craftsman tool allows for the use of a 5/16-18 3/4" socket-cap bolt installed, if your lock plate tool doesn't have enough clearance a 5/16-18 set screw will also work. The lock plate ring(#6) slides up out of it's groove, so install your lock plate removal tool appropriately.
8. Remove the horn contact pass-through plate(#8).
9. Set your turn signal to "right" (push up) to get the turn signal cam out of the way of it's retaining screws. Remove the stalk pivot screw(#11), hazard button, and cam retaining screws (#10). This will free up the cam, but you will not be able to remove it since we're not disconnecting the wires for this exercise.
10. Push the cam down, and use needle nose pliers to remove the horn contact arm(#16). When reinstalling later, there is a black spring arm that goes on top of this piece. So push it up when reinstalling.
11. Using a 7/64 allen wrench, remove the ignition lock retaining screw(#18). You'll need to fully remove the screw, I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
The fruits of your labors.
12. I didn't feel like rewiring the car, so I spliced the new VATS wires into the old. Carefully feed the wires into the notch at the 9 o'clock position when reinstalling.
13. Put the assembly back together. Just follow these steps backwards. Replace anything you broke along the way.
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Missi Nichols (05-19-2020)
10-30-2012, 03:26 PM
#2
You did real well until you got to the "cut & splice" for the cylinder. I know many have done it but it's not that large an issue to pull a wire up the column using the old harness and then pulling it back down the column.
Save the harness that you cut-off and you can solder a resistor between the wires on it and then just plug in under the knee bolster to by-pass VATS!
Save the harness that you cut-off and you can solder a resistor between the wires on it and then just plug in under the knee bolster to by-pass VATS!
10-30-2012, 03:57 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
You did real well until you got to the "cut & splice" for the cylinder. I know many have done it but it's not that large an issue to pull a wire up the column using the old harness and then pulling it back down the column.
Save the harness that you cut-off and you can solder a resistor between the wires on it and then just plug in under the knee bolster to by-pass VATS!
Save the harness that you cut-off and you can solder a resistor between the wires on it and then just plug in under the knee bolster to by-pass VATS!
And the VATS bypass would be pretty easy as well.
If I had a ZR-1 or even a Corvette in better condition, I would be more inclined to make the repairs in the more professional manner. As is, this thing is in rough shape, and I'm just happy things work.
Last edited by TTA579; 10-30-2012 at 04:00 PM.
01-11-2016, 06:17 PM
#5
couldn't get the images to come up
I couldn't get the images you have in your thread on how to disassemble an early c4 steering column to come up. can you help with this please. Thank you
WVZR1 has provided a fantastic how-to on disassembly of an air bag equipped C4 steering column. But the earlier models are slightly different and I thought I'd provide a little how-to on the subject.
First, a schematic of the assembly for reference:
1. Remove the horn button. Pull. Then, disconnect the horn wire. It's a bayonet style, push and turn.
2. Remove two locking screws, the star screw, and the telescope lever.
3. Remove the snap-ring and steering wheel retaining nut (#1).
4. Attach your steering wheel puller and pull the wheel. My Craftsman brand steering wheel puller did not include 5/16-18 bolts long enough to use on the early C4's deep wheel. I purchased two 6" threaded rods from Lowes with appropriate nuts and washers to compensate.
6. Remove a set of spacers, small(#2) - large(#3) - small(#4). Remove the lock ring retainer(#5). This part is brittle.
7. Remove the lock plate ring(#6) and lock plate(#7). To do this, you'll need to lock the telescoping steering shaft before you install your lock plate removal tool. The Craftsman tool allows for the use of a 5/16-18 3/4" socket-cap bolt installed, if your lock plate tool doesn't have enough clearance a 5/16-18 set screw will also work. The lock plate ring(#6) slides up out of it's groove, so install your lock plate removal tool appropriately.
8. Remove the horn contact pass-through plate(#8).
9. Set your turn signal to "right" (push up) to get the turn signal cam out of the way of it's retaining screws. Remove the stalk pivot screw(#11), hazard button, and cam retaining screws (#10). This will free up the cam, but you will not be able to remove it since we're not disconnecting the wires for this exercise.
10. Push the cam down, and use needle nose pliers to remove the horn contact arm(#16). When reinstalling later, there is a black spring arm that goes on top of this piece. So push it up when reinstalling.
11. Using a 7/64 allen wrench, remove the ignition lock retaining screw(#18). You'll need to fully remove the screw, I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
The fruits of your labors.
12. I didn't feel like rewiring the car, so I spliced the new VATS wires into the old. Carefully feed the wires into the notch at the 9 o'clock position when reinstalling.
13. Put the assembly back together. Just follow these steps backwards. Replace anything you broke along the way.
First, a schematic of the assembly for reference:
1. Remove the horn button. Pull. Then, disconnect the horn wire. It's a bayonet style, push and turn.
2. Remove two locking screws, the star screw, and the telescope lever.
3. Remove the snap-ring and steering wheel retaining nut (#1).
4. Attach your steering wheel puller and pull the wheel. My Craftsman brand steering wheel puller did not include 5/16-18 bolts long enough to use on the early C4's deep wheel. I purchased two 6" threaded rods from Lowes with appropriate nuts and washers to compensate.
6. Remove a set of spacers, small(#2) - large(#3) - small(#4). Remove the lock ring retainer(#5). This part is brittle.
7. Remove the lock plate ring(#6) and lock plate(#7). To do this, you'll need to lock the telescoping steering shaft before you install your lock plate removal tool. The Craftsman tool allows for the use of a 5/16-18 3/4" socket-cap bolt installed, if your lock plate tool doesn't have enough clearance a 5/16-18 set screw will also work. The lock plate ring(#6) slides up out of it's groove, so install your lock plate removal tool appropriately.
8. Remove the horn contact pass-through plate(#8).
9. Set your turn signal to "right" (push up) to get the turn signal cam out of the way of it's retaining screws. Remove the stalk pivot screw(#11), hazard button, and cam retaining screws (#10). This will free up the cam, but you will not be able to remove it since we're not disconnecting the wires for this exercise.
10. Push the cam down, and use needle nose pliers to remove the horn contact arm(#16). When reinstalling later, there is a black spring arm that goes on top of this piece. So push it up when reinstalling.
11. Using a 7/64 allen wrench, remove the ignition lock retaining screw(#18). You'll need to fully remove the screw, I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
The fruits of your labors.
12. I didn't feel like rewiring the car, so I spliced the new VATS wires into the old. Carefully feed the wires into the notch at the 9 o'clock position when reinstalling.
13. Put the assembly back together. Just follow these steps backwards. Replace anything you broke along the way.
01-11-2016, 11:48 PM
#6
Race Director
http://www.scott-photo.com
01-12-2016, 05:11 AM
#7
Are you just curious? If you post what I mention there are likely several that can offer up good, quality help. I would think some have taken snapshots etc. but don't have the server capabilities to offer them. I actually believe I have the information BUT it's I believe on a crashed HDD that I can't justify the expense to try and recover OR it's on an older HDD that isn't in a machine currently. I've been meaning to actually look but "TIME" - I don't seem to have the time.
There are parts that would be a "wise buy" before you start. Most 30+ year old plastics just crumble.
*** Start a "new thread" OR maybe just add to this but I'd suggest NEW>