1996 c4 5.7 oil leak
#1
Cruising
Thread Starter
1996 c4 5.7 oil leak
I have an annoying oil leak. My mechanic has changes Oil Sump Gasket, Oil pressure sender, etc.
But the leak seems to be coming from the 'rear' Right Hand Side of the Engine. It leaks down onto the 'engine/transmission' lower 'protection cover', and we can't see where it's coming from.
Any ideas would be extremely helpful.
Thank you
Paul
But the leak seems to be coming from the 'rear' Right Hand Side of the Engine. It leaks down onto the 'engine/transmission' lower 'protection cover', and we can't see where it's coming from.
Any ideas would be extremely helpful.
Thank you
Paul
#2
check the valve cover gasket.. I would look at the extension & sensors... I had 2 leaks
my sensor & my extension coupler. start your car. have someone on the gas and really look
with good lighting. hopefully not the rear intake seal.
my sensor & my extension coupler. start your car. have someone on the gas and really look
with good lighting. hopefully not the rear intake seal.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 11-04-2012 at 10:17 AM.
#4
Racer
#5
Cruising
Thread Starter
Thank you
Paul
#6
Cruising
Thread Starter
#7
The oil leak from the intake manifold runs down the back or front of the engine. You are correct that the factory uses RTV (oxygen safe) silicone.
But it tends to leak for whatever reason, I am not sure why.
I know after the intake manifold is off that you have to clean the front and rear of the block (valley lip if you will) thoroughly.
Then apply a thick bead of approved silicone (O2 sensor safe)to that area up to the edges of the intake port gaskets which are on each side of the cylinder head.
After you bolt everything back together with a torque wrench, let the RTV dry overnight before you attempt to start the engine.
You want the RTV to dry completely. If you don't let it dry you will have a leak again! (Ask me how I know, not with my Vette but my old Z28).
Hope this helps
But it tends to leak for whatever reason, I am not sure why.
I know after the intake manifold is off that you have to clean the front and rear of the block (valley lip if you will) thoroughly.
Then apply a thick bead of approved silicone (O2 sensor safe)to that area up to the edges of the intake port gaskets which are on each side of the cylinder head.
After you bolt everything back together with a torque wrench, let the RTV dry overnight before you attempt to start the engine.
You want the RTV to dry completely. If you don't let it dry you will have a leak again! (Ask me how I know, not with my Vette but my old Z28).
Hope this helps
#8
Tech Contributor
The oil leak from the intake manifold runs down the back or front of the engine. You are correct that the factory uses RTV (oxygen safe) silicone.
But it tends to leak for whatever reason, I am not sure why.
I know after the intake manifold is off that you have to clean the front and rear of the block (valley lip if you will) thoroughly.
Then apply a thick bead of approved silicone (O2 sensor safe)to that area up to the edges of the intake port gaskets which are on each side of the cylinder head.
After you bolt everything back together with a torque wrench, let the RTV dry overnight before you attempt to start the engine.
You want the RTV to dry completely. If you don't let it dry you will have a leak again! (Ask me how I know, not with my Vette but my old Z28).
Hope this helps
But it tends to leak for whatever reason, I am not sure why.
I know after the intake manifold is off that you have to clean the front and rear of the block (valley lip if you will) thoroughly.
Then apply a thick bead of approved silicone (O2 sensor safe)to that area up to the edges of the intake port gaskets which are on each side of the cylinder head.
After you bolt everything back together with a torque wrench, let the RTV dry overnight before you attempt to start the engine.
You want the RTV to dry completely. If you don't let it dry you will have a leak again! (Ask me how I know, not with my Vette but my old Z28).
Hope this helps
You can see the black sealer "The Right Stuff" in these pics...
3 years and several thousand high rpm miles on road courses and dry as a bone.
Last edited by 96GS#007; 11-06-2012 at 07:26 PM.
#9
Cruising
Thread Starter
Most appreciated
The oil leak from the intake manifold runs down the back or front of the engine. You are correct that the factory uses RTV (oxygen safe) silicone.
But it tends to leak for whatever reason, I am not sure why.
I know after the intake manifold is off that you have to clean the front and rear of the block (valley lip if you will) thoroughly.
Then apply a thick bead of approved silicone (O2 sensor safe)to that area up to the edges of the intake port gaskets which are on each side of the cylinder head.
After you bolt everything back together with a torque wrench, let the RTV dry overnight before you attempt to start the engine.
You want the RTV to dry completely. If you don't let it dry you will have a leak again! (Ask me how I know, not with my Vette but my old Z28).
Hope this helps
But it tends to leak for whatever reason, I am not sure why.
I know after the intake manifold is off that you have to clean the front and rear of the block (valley lip if you will) thoroughly.
Then apply a thick bead of approved silicone (O2 sensor safe)to that area up to the edges of the intake port gaskets which are on each side of the cylinder head.
After you bolt everything back together with a torque wrench, let the RTV dry overnight before you attempt to start the engine.
You want the RTV to dry completely. If you don't let it dry you will have a leak again! (Ask me how I know, not with my Vette but my old Z28).
Hope this helps
#10
Cruising
Thread Starter
Thank you
I would make one change...rather than using RTV, if you can buy a sealer called "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex, use that. It seals much better than RTV and it's much more durable.
You can see the black sealer "The Right Stuff" in these pics...
3 years and several thousand high rpm miles on road courses and dry as a bone.
You can see the black sealer "The Right Stuff" in these pics...
3 years and several thousand high rpm miles on road courses and dry as a bone.