Need Dana-44 C-beam info!
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Need Dana-44 C-beam info!
Couple of questions.
1.) Does someone have the measurment/distance fromthe front holes to the rear bolt holes center to center (C-Beam).
2.) Is the Dana 44HD supposed to have two bulges in the center area sides (lattice area) for driveshaft clearance or somthing? If not what would have caused this and can it be straightened by hammering flat again?
3.) I couldn't find this in my manual. I have seen where guys use a piece of stock for clearance measurments above and beside the tunnel before tourqing the front C-Beam down. Comes with the C-Beam reinforcing plates purchased on the net.
Thanks, Randy
1.) Does someone have the measurment/distance fromthe front holes to the rear bolt holes center to center (C-Beam).
2.) Is the Dana 44HD supposed to have two bulges in the center area sides (lattice area) for driveshaft clearance or somthing? If not what would have caused this and can it be straightened by hammering flat again?
3.) I couldn't find this in my manual. I have seen where guys use a piece of stock for clearance measurments above and beside the tunnel before tourqing the front C-Beam down. Comes with the C-Beam reinforcing plates purchased on the net.
Thanks, Randy
#2
I have not noticed any bulges in a C beam...
I can tell you that a hard side impact can do its damage to the beam..I had a rear end impact that hit hard enough to break the trans housing via lateral movement in the rear suspension bushings and bat-wing...that moved enough to break the trans. I am sure a harder impact would tweak the beam.. Look at the bulges...if they are similar both sides, that suggest up/down movement. if they are top and sides that might mean a very hard bottoming out of the suspension at some point. Where something buckles, something else MUST stretch. Solids cannot compress but they can distort and stretch with sufficient stress.
I would NOT try to beat the bulges out with a hammer. Aluminum does not respond well to the repeated impacts. It has to be heated, and follow an anealling process. Otherwise, it cracks and the metal becomes useless.
I can tell you that a hard side impact can do its damage to the beam..I had a rear end impact that hit hard enough to break the trans housing via lateral movement in the rear suspension bushings and bat-wing...that moved enough to break the trans. I am sure a harder impact would tweak the beam.. Look at the bulges...if they are similar both sides, that suggest up/down movement. if they are top and sides that might mean a very hard bottoming out of the suspension at some point. Where something buckles, something else MUST stretch. Solids cannot compress but they can distort and stretch with sufficient stress.
I would NOT try to beat the bulges out with a hammer. Aluminum does not respond well to the repeated impacts. It has to be heated, and follow an anealling process. Otherwise, it cracks and the metal becomes useless.
#3
Safety Car
there are bulges, they are distorted from the bowling green, i thought mine was damaged by one of the may yahoos who touched my car, but when i saw pics of another, they are the same.
same goes for the bent floor pan, under the seats, looks like damage but they are factory wrinkles.
zfdoc includes little metal pieces to center the beam, they come with the beam plates, my yahoos never use them, they are not critical
same goes for the bent floor pan, under the seats, looks like damage but they are factory wrinkles.
zfdoc includes little metal pieces to center the beam, they come with the beam plates, my yahoos never use them, they are not critical
#4
Rear most to front most "center to center" 38 1/2 +/-
45mm =/- to tunnel top, 28mm to tunnel right side (those are using the center-line of the slip-yoke top and side) They're also +/- 6mm. There's a thread from last month (maybe) where the 45mm was disputed and I don't recall the year. He had good reason for the dispute. With the beam located correctly the bolts should turn with minimal resistance. He mentioned them binding I believe using the 45mm dimension.
There are what I guess you're describing as bulges.
45mm =/- to tunnel top, 28mm to tunnel right side (those are using the center-line of the slip-yoke top and side) They're also +/- 6mm. There's a thread from last month (maybe) where the 45mm was disputed and I don't recall the year. He had good reason for the dispute. With the beam located correctly the bolts should turn with minimal resistance. He mentioned them binding I believe using the 45mm dimension.
There are what I guess you're describing as bulges.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 11-13-2012 at 02:15 PM.