10vette

1985 stock. Only replacement is stock radio with a Delco-LOC II radio/cd. Any suggestions, comments, solutions, etc will be GREATLY appreciated. I've had this 85 since 88. Had around 32k when bought, has about 78k presently. Trying to get her back as close to normal as possible. Been neglecting her long enough. I am having some sort of electrical problem from what I see. Battery drains quickly. Presently, radio is unplugged. One underhood light doesn't work, antenna doesn't work, check engine light stays on (I've had a scan run with a scanner at Autozone and O'reilly's, as well as doing the paper clip test and get no codes, hope it's not the ECM). Also, the interior lights stay on for about 20-30 seconds AFTER I get in the car, crank it, put it in gear and go, then they go off. I know there is a timer that keeps the interior lights on for 30 seconds when you turn OFF the car and get out (I've replaced it once, years ago, because the lights were staying on and running my battery down), but I thought they are supposed to go out immediately when you enter the car and the key is is turned on. Lastly, I must have a bad socket on the rear license plate lights, because I put a GOOD bulb in it and it did not come on. Just trying to give a run down of what I know is not working. Where do I start...or where would you start..gotta be a guru out there...Any feedback will be taken and tried. ALL APPRECIATED! THANKS!

10vette

HERE IS SOMETHING THAT HOPEFULLY WILL HELP ELIMINATE SOME, IF NOT ALL, OF THE PROBLEM. Still need some input. I drove the car today. I turned on the headlgihts and I vaguely heard the headlight/ignition key chime that is activated when you get out of the car and leave your lights on or when key is in ignition. Could this need to be replaced or what? Thanks...

GQ-ROD

1- Start with what is the most important priority that you want to resolve first !

2- Begin by testing that circuit with a test light or volt meter to ensure that you don't have a shorted wire or circuit draining your battery. Try youtube for videos on how to test circuits as electrical issues can be a bear to figure out for a novice without a sense as to how to perform certain tests.

3- Autozone or any other chain will NOT usually be able to pull codes from any car older than 1997 ex: they are not able to pull the codes for my 96 grand caravan even though i have the correct port, as such i have to use the key on key off sequence to get the cel light to come on showing the codes.

Not sure why the paper clip test did not work others can chime in.

4- Bad socket on the rear license plate light ? - get a test light to see if you have a good ground and that you have 12 v, if not check the reverse back up light switch. Ensure there is 12v going to it when in reverse, and that you have 12v at the wire at the socket.

Do each test and report back results with pics if possible so we can help you home in on each issue.

10vette

@GQ-ROD...Thanks..I'll try your suggestions....but yeah..both autozone and o'reillys had a seperate diognostics handhelds..I think one was for ...up to 96 and the other was for above 96..just an fyi...anyways...thanks..i'll get some kind of results posted back...Keep any ideas coming pleez....

ghlkal

As suggested, if you have volt-ohm meter, use it to check the amp draw on the battery. If you have a large draw, begin to remove fuses one by one and see if the amp reading drops significantly.

If your battery has been drained a number of times, it's likely a good idea to replace it _after_ you track down the drain.

Good luck ... I hate tracking down electrical problems

10vette

@ghlkal..THANKS!

Cliff Harris

Could be a bad bulb or the connector might be unplugged (many people unplug the connector to avoid running down the battery if the hood is left open for a long time). Follow the wires down to the area around the headlight.

NO codes? Not even 12? You should get error code 12 (no reference pulses from the distributor) because the engine is not running. Some people say error code 12 means "All OK" -- not true. Check here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1574918379-post18.html
http://corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576116036-post35.html

10vette

@Cliff Harris....Yea. I do get a code 12...But check engine light is on. Weird...
I'll check the hood lamp....LH (drivers side) is out. May be bulb, but it's blowing for some reason. I think I replaced it years ago and it worked. RH (passengers) side has no problems. Thanks!

fredd1

The clk/ctsy circuit supplies a lot of accessory circuits, pwr.mirrors, curtesy lights, cigar lighter, etc. Might be a good place to start looking . (check if the cigar lighter has a coin shorting the element -a common problem I hear). As a previous poster suggested, narrowing down which circuit is draining the battery by measuring current draw and pulling individual fuses is a good idea. I had similar electrical problems when reviving my '84 after several years of it sitting idle. Got a new battery and it died within a week. Took it back to Pepboys and they replaced it after it tested bad. The new battery seems to have solved most of the electrical problems and has held a charge for several weeks now. The power mirrors still don't work but I can live with that. If you isolate which fused circuit is causing the drain, get a circuit breaker fuse replacement rated at the same amperage so you won't be constantly blowing fuses tracing down the short. The breakers only cost about $4. Good luck and have patience.