UGABUGA

Pke problems as usual
Hi guys, I own a 1996 coupe and the pke remote didn’t came w/ the car when I bout it and now I’m trying to get it to work. I’ve look for answers all over our forum and the net too.
Like lot of vets owners I purchase a new remote and after an abysmal fail on programming the fob, I went to radio shark and got a new battery too.
I really want to keep my car original and I would love to have this fob/pke system to work.
This is what I did so far to troubleshoot the problem.
1) Using the owner’s manual and the instructions on the new fob:
Fob out of range about 25 feet out
Put key on ignition turn to on position (not start engine)- the pke lights up and stay on
Push odo twice (tried pushing fast and tried holding 5 sec for the second time)
Push and hold fuel info for about 10 sec - the pke light stay on (not blinking)
Put key on of position (not removing from ign) the pke light stay on (not blinking)
I’ve used this procedure several times and the result was the same the pke lights up and stay on!
Finally I’ve decide to bring the fob in to range and the pke light goes off!
One funny thing is that if I have the fob w/ me on the car and the key is on but not start the engine the pke light flickers very fast when I move the fob.

2) I also tried cycling the door locks on and off to see if I can turn pke on/off. I hold the door lock for about 20 sec and then the locks make some noise. (it looks like the r cycling but the looks open and close so fast that I don’t really know if it is working) I like to mention that the looks work fine and the hatch release on the door as well on the center console are fine too
This make the pke light to go off when I insert the key on igi but the symptoms come back when I start the programming procedure.(step 1)
3) I’ve check the door ajar switch on driver and pass and they r ok.
I’ve check the alarm and it’s working as well.
Checked the 3 fuses (26,40,42) and they r fine.
I’ve removed the fuses to see if system can be reset.
4) Looks like I can’t pull codes from pke, I’ve used a wire to connect port number 5 and 8 but pke don’t show any code (light won’t come on) I also use the 4 and 8 ports (it was on a different blog) but results are the same.
My question is:
Is there anything else I can do to troubleshooting this problem?
A pke module is too expensive for me right now.
Thank you guys very much for all the help!
Alex

markKlein

If you held the door button down and heard the locks cycle, the fob is already programmed to your car. The fact that the light doesn't come on then when you put the key in means it is working, but has been turned "off". Hld the button down again till the locks cycle. See if the light comes on now when you put the key in. Walk away from the car and see if it honks/locks. Should unlock if you walk back towards the car. If you have a coupe try the hatch button, should pop the hatch.

Let us know how this went, from what you said you should be fine.

UGABUGA

Thanks for the fast reply,
I've tried and the remote wont respond.
when the door look cycles it makes a funny noise (is more like a rattles) the a cycle. so I'm not sure.
the pke light stay on all the time and never blinks under program
and the light comes off when I bring the fob next to the car.
also I forgot to mention that the chime is working as well the looks are in the vertical position.
Help!

green4032

Does the chime work when you have key in the ignition?

UGABUGA

yes, it does
thanks

markKlein

Something very strange is going on. If the car responds to the fob at all then somehow it is already programmed to it, at least for some purposes. Here are a couple ideas. Check to make sure your hatch ajar switch is working OK. Check your odo and fuel buttons to make sure they are doing what they should bew doing when you are not trying to program the car.

The write up I looked at was for a 93, but it said to short A to H to pull the PKE codes. Also said the the key had to be in ignition, in off position. Check to make sure you have the right procedure for a 96.

When you turn the key on does the PKE come on for a few seconds? Holding the door button down should prodcue a clunk-clunk sound.

Let us know.

UGABUGA

Hi Markklein, thanks for your help,
The fob is new and I was never able to enter programming mode on the vet, its funny because the pke recognizes the remote somehow, but none of the feature work. no locking/unlocking when I push the buttons or walk away from the car. the hatch switch works fine,

To pull codes on the 96 (have 16 pin) I've used #4 and #8

And when I turn the ignition on (engine off0the pke light comes on and stay on).

I don't remember about the clunk-clunk sound (I will check it when i'm back home)
Thanks

markKlein

No offense but I don't want to confuse things with incorrect expectations. Your comment above makes me a little nervous. There shouldn't be any locking/unlocking when you push the buttons, except that the pass. door should unlock, if the system is active.

When you say the hatch switch works fine, do you mean the button on the fob, or the console or door buttons?

Red Dwarf

Have you searched the car thoroughly for another fob? There are storage compartments in the door arm rests. Pull the sat cushions & also look in the pass/side storage compartment behind the pass. seat.

5 to 8 is correct for PKE diagnosis.

For those with a 16 pin DLC the pins to ground are 8 to 5.





"DIAGNOSIS
The PKE system will flash a specified diagnostic trouble code (dtc), based up on the testing of certain fucntion parts of the system when the diagnostics enable input is activated. the diagnostic mode will be accessed when the following conditions are met.
- Key is in the ignition
- Ignition is "OFF"
- the diagnostic link connector (DLC) terminal "H" has been grounded.

The diagnositc mode will be exited whenever the grounding of the diagnositc enable input is removed. the receiver will return to transmitter in range/key-in ignition mode after exiting. The "Passive Keyless Entry" lamp shall flash DTCs indictating proper operation or faults of specific parts of the system."

"DAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCs)The "Passive Keyless Entry" lamp in the Driver Information Center (DIC) shall flash information codes shown below, which represent the corresponding system condition.

Diagnostic Condition - DTC
Receiver memory bad - 12
Transmitter not in range - 13
Non-Valid transmitter received - 14
Valid Transmitter received - 15
Passenger Door Button Depressed - 16
Hatch Button Depressed - 17

DTCs 12. 13, and 14 display the current state of the system. DTCs 15, 16, and 17 are actually functional codes which require the transmitter to be in range as confirmation that the receiver has functioned correctly."
================
just get the DTC and i'll tell you what the chart says the problem may be for that DTC. The chart is too lengthy to type out the remaining procedure for each DTC.

UGABUGA

offence not taken Markklein.
I'm sorry for not be more clear o my last post.
the buttons on the fob don't work at all and when I walk to/from the car w/ the fob nothing happens. The hatch open only if I use the door switch or the button in the center console.
The only time that the fob appears to give some clue of communication between the car and the fob is when I have the key in the ignition on the "on" position (engine off)the pke light stays lit then when bring the fog near the car I can see that the pke light flickers very briefly.

now to answer Red dwarf
I've search the hole car before and I had to remove the carpet once and found no remote.
about the "h" connector that I need to ground first can you be more specific because I don't know where it is I'm sorry but I'm kinda new on this

guys, thanks for all the help

markKlein

The reason I think there is communication between the fob and the car is that when you hold down the door button you hear the "lock/unlock" sound or the system turning off and on. That would not happen unless the fob was communicating. Or did I misunderstand that?

Only question I have left is about the buttons; do the odo and fuel buttons work otherwise?

Red Dwarf

The site below will get you started on how the on board computer works.

The "H" terminal does not pertain to your car, it's an earlier version.

http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c...pth_launch.htm

mn_vette

I had the same issue that you did with my old car. No matter what I tried the PKE light would not blink. I traced it down to a dead PKE module. I ended up replacing it with a GM universal keyless system and it worked great. I put a write up on how to do that in a post a few years back.

The PKE module is located behind the DIC, but behind a plastic divider. So you either need to cut a hold in the plastic divider or remove the entire dash to get to it.

UGABUGA

Markklein, the door button (the switch that is on the door it self) cycles…(it’s more like a rattle) and looks like the pke system turn on/off. But when the pke sys is on and I insert the key on the igin the the pke light stay on all the time.
The buttons on the info center work as it should.
Any more ideas?
Thanks again Markklein

Mmvette , thanks for the help
I think I’m going to keep the car original (I already removed the pad once to repair the top foam that was peeling)
The pke light is always ON
Do you know if there’s a way of resoldering the pke module?

markKlein

I'm afraid I'm about out of easy ideas. Guess the next thing is to see if you can pull the codes like Red Dwarf sugests. It is sounding like a PKE receiver problem. Good Luck

shaky_jeep

Link to write up? I think that's where I'm at with mine, so a relatively painless process would be much appreciated.

Rob

UGABUGA

Good morning Vette lovers, I’m back!
After a long break from this PKE non sense I finally got the guts to replace it with a used one from Coastal Corvette here in central Florida, but guess what? My pke still does not work! (this is fun!!!)
Now the new (used) pke module came with some improvements…The pke light does not come on when the key is on the ignition (do you think the module may be off? If so how can I turn it back on?) One other improvement is that I can hear a sound coming from the power locks when close the driver’s door. And finally when the #5 and #8 odb connector are grounded the pke light flashes 4 times very fast and then gives a pause and flashes again and again till I remove the connection from the odb port.
You guys have helped me a lot…
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

oilyfishhead

markKlein

If you changed the receiver you will need to program the fob. Go through the step by step procedure and note anything that does not respond like the manual says it should. Any problems list everything in as much detail as possible (rember, with a new receiver in place, all of the previous testing is now invalid).

To turn on/off, stand by the drivers door and hold down the door keys until you hear clack-clack. But that won't work until you get the fob programmed to the new receiver.

UGABUGA

Halleluiah!!! I've finally got the pke to work!
It works like a charm, the door look and the alarm arms when I walk away from the car and it will unlock if I get near...
The only thing is the pke light never comes up (not even on startup)
I just want to say how much I appreciate all the help and support.
Thanks