garys vette

Have an oil leak from rear top drivers side of engine just below distributor.

I replaced both sending units as one had a serious leak.

Thought that would do it. It took care of the serious leak but minor leak still there.

It leaks down the side of the block on the drivers side only. Enough that it needs to be fixed. With the distributor in place can't see squat. If I remove the distributor I can't run it to see where the leak is coming from.

1986 vert.

Anyone have a clue?

Thanks

aboatguy

Only a couple of usual suspects that high;
China wall on the intake

Oil pressure switches (I'm assuming you've already addressed these)

Distributer to intake gasket.

valve cover

My money is on china wall since its the PITA of the bunch.

garys vette

yes replaced both oil senders.

What is high China wall?....lol....

thanks

aboatguy

surface between the block and the intake manifold. Common leak

I use the "right stuff" instead of rtv and I don't get leaks, and don't have to wait for the rtv to cure.. (right stuff) is good to go once you get it together.


Mike

TA

Where the rear of the intake manifold mounts.

Red88Vert

I have this too. Oil puddles at the botton of the pipe that bolts into the passenger side of the intake in front of the distributor. I'm starting to wonder if this is responsible for my code 33 (grounding something out).

65Z01

Since it's so "dark" and cramped at the rear of the engine I used a dental mirror with a very strong Xenon light to investigate leakage source(s). Once I had enough light & a mirror the leak source was very easy to locate.

Since you already had a leak that is fixed you might wipe the rear of the engine as possible with brake parts cleaner, run the engine till it leaks down again and then search with the light & mirror.

Cliff Harris

Oil is an insulator. It won't ground anything out.

Sounds more like the gasket between the distributor and intake manifold is bad or not there.

dizwiz24

the key to making the great wall of china seal up is the following procedure:

1. apply RTV silicone (i use the black stuff) on engine block.
2. finger tighten intake manifold bolts in the proper sequence. The key word is finger tighten.
3.After approximately 6 hours, come back and tighten to torque spec, using the proper sequence.

The problem is all the silicne sealer squishes out if you just tighten it up from the get-go.

Iv done this and its nevr leaked. Ive had my intake manifold off 3 different times.

aboatguy

Or you can use "the right stuff", torque the manifold right away and use the engine as soon as its together.
The only problems with the right stuff is removing it from the surfaces when you are disassembling the engine, and that's after working hard to get the manifold unstuck from the block .

Mike

Red88Vert

Thanks for the oil comment. I just remember spraying WD40 into connections on old cars and it seemed to help.

Going to look for the wiring bug this weekend and maybe I'll try and scout out the oil leak too.