where is the fuel pump fuse on an 87?
05-07-2013, 01:51 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2013
Location: Fairland Oklahoma
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
where is the fuel pump fuse on an 87?
I can't seem to find the fuel pump fuse. I'm needing to disable the pump so I can replace the inline fuel filter. Anyone know where it's located? 
05-07-2013, 02:18 PM
#2
Team Owner
Why do you need to disable the pump? The pump won't run with the ignition off.
In any event, at the fuse panel, the fuse in the slot marked "F.P." will disable the fuel pump relay. It's in the bottom right corner of the fuse panel. It's a 10A fuse.
Also, you need to release fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Then raise the front of the car as high as possible. It's best to do the filter when the gas tank is very close to empty. That keeps any gas from draining from the tank by gravity.
In any event, at the fuse panel, the fuse in the slot marked "F.P." will disable the fuel pump relay. It's in the bottom right corner of the fuse panel. It's a 10A fuse.
Also, you need to release fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Then raise the front of the car as high as possible. It's best to do the filter when the gas tank is very close to empty. That keeps any gas from draining from the tank by gravity.
05-07-2013, 02:21 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2013
Location: Fairland Oklahoma
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have almost a full tank. This whole problem started when I filled it up for the first time after it setting for several months and all the junk and water clogged the filter (I assume).
05-07-2013, 02:37 PM
#4
Do this or you WILL wear a 1/2 gallon or more....
you gotta pull the gas door too...
key on the charge system, sorry, its necessary. Pull fuse OR relay. Start engine and RUN it until it dies...make it keep running as long as possible. This is getting any and ALL of the fuel out of the lines...as much as possible. NOW, with the gas door off you can lift the boot up and access the lines. Use vice grips to pinch the pressure line. IF you FAIL to do this, it WILL siphon the entire time you have the lower lines open by the filter...
you gotta pull the gas door too...
key on the charge system, sorry, its necessary. Pull fuse OR relay. Start engine and RUN it until it dies...make it keep running as long as possible. This is getting any and ALL of the fuel out of the lines...as much as possible. NOW, with the gas door off you can lift the boot up and access the lines. Use vice grips to pinch the pressure line. IF you FAIL to do this, it WILL siphon the entire time you have the lower lines open by the filter...
05-07-2013, 05:54 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2013
Location: Fairland Oklahoma
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I got the filter replaced but still not starting. I see the security light on so I'm wondering if it's the VATS preventing it from starting. I've seen the security light on before and it still started but maybe it's disabling the injectors now?
05-07-2013, 07:25 PM
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2003
Location: Summerland B.C. Canada
Posts: 19,667
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
31 Posts
The security light is for the forced entry alarm, will not affect starting.
Do you hear the pump run for 2 seconds when ignition is switched to "RUN" ?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ?
Is there spark at plugs ?
Do you hear the pump run for 2 seconds when ignition is switched to "RUN" ?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge ?
Is there spark at plugs ?
05-07-2013, 11:46 PM
#8
when someone states...".....its not starting".... what does that mean?
it does not do anything when the key is turned?
it turns the starter motor which rotates the engine but it does not fire and run
it clicks?
it whistles show tunes?
what?
Saying it doesn;t start is like telling your dr that something hurts.
it does not do anything when the key is turned?
it turns the starter motor which rotates the engine but it does not fire and run
it clicks?
it whistles show tunes?
what?
Saying it doesn;t start is like telling your dr that something hurts.
05-08-2013, 03:21 AM
#9
Don't you like a challenge?
I love those one line " my car won't start ; what could the problem be " one liners.
In many cases getting enough relevant info to make a informed guess about a problem is like pulling teeth
Even better the "my engine cranks but won't turn over "comment
05-09-2013, 11:26 AM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2013
Location: Fairland Oklahoma
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry about the lack of info lol. I'm new to car forums and actually mostly new to working on cars in general. It was turning over and frequently would start for about a second or so then die. I found out that the connectors for the injectors weren't connecting so I took a needle nose to them and made it a snug fit. Started up and I adjusted the idle and put a new idle air valve. Now the only issue is the power is super low for now and I assume it's because of the heet and additives bogging down the gas.
05-09-2013, 03:27 PM
#11
Remember, this is a computer controlled FUEL INJECTED engine...different animal.
the electrical is the heart & soul of the system.
If its a fuel problem, its more likely to be a pressure problem. You need 40 psi with just the key ON... steady 38+ at idle and a smooth gauge as it revs. No jittering gauge for the fuel pressure. Thats a sign of a plugged filter or dying pump. IF the pump was left dry for very long, its junk.
It takes 30 psi for a C4 to even start. less it will not run. Takes 40 psi to run right.
Get a noid lite to check each inj to be sure its firing. This is "bank fire" so all on each side fire together.
If the fuel system checks out ok, go to timing, adjust as needed, set TPS and fix all vac leaks. Make sure EGR is not stuck OPEN or leaking.
With some info supplied and a few test by you, it will run again...
the electrical is the heart & soul of the system.
If its a fuel problem, its more likely to be a pressure problem. You need 40 psi with just the key ON... steady 38+ at idle and a smooth gauge as it revs. No jittering gauge for the fuel pressure. Thats a sign of a plugged filter or dying pump. IF the pump was left dry for very long, its junk.
It takes 30 psi for a C4 to even start. less it will not run. Takes 40 psi to run right.
Get a noid lite to check each inj to be sure its firing. This is "bank fire" so all on each side fire together.
If the fuel system checks out ok, go to timing, adjust as needed, set TPS and fix all vac leaks. Make sure EGR is not stuck OPEN or leaking.
With some info supplied and a few test by you, it will run again...
05-09-2013, 03:32 PM
#12
Don't you like a challenge?
I love those one line " my car won't start ; what could the problem be " one liners.
In many cases getting enough relevant info to make a informed guess about a problem is like pulling teeth
Even better the "my engine cranks but won't turn over "comment
"......its by water somewhere"
"...does the name John mean anything"?
Its starting to rain on John?
See...
another starting problem solved. NEXT !
05-10-2013, 02:10 AM
#14
Race Director
You don't "adjust the idle" -- the ECM does that.
What you do is a "minimum idle adjustment":
http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/r...scuss_sim5.htm
What you do is a "minimum idle adjustment":
http://www.batee.com/corvette/dcrg/r...scuss_sim5.htm
