Benjikittens

i have an 86 l98 2 bolt and was wondering could i swap it over to 4 bolt main block to stroke it out. and if i can how this affect any of my gauges i dont think it would but i would like to know forsure

vetteoz

The dash doesn't know or care what engine / block etc you have in the engine bay
So long as the engine sensors match to the gauges you can use anything

mnstrlt1

Depends on the purpose of your build, as to which block to use. It's actually common for people to switch to a two-bolt factory block only to machine it to accept "splayed" 4-bolt main caps. This is actually stronger than a factory 4-bolt block.

The factory 4-bolt is a nice alternative to a 2-bolt when you're seeking more strength without the added cost of machining a 2-bolt to accept splayed 4-bolt main caps. *also, GM did make slight changes to the blocks during production. The most significant being the roller cam in the mid-80's, 2- piece or 1-piece rear main seals, sensor locations, certain mounting holes (some threaded, some blank, etc.). Communicate with your machine shop when deciding on a block to build on.

WW7

For a mild to medium build up to around 450 hp there really is no need to buy a new 4 bolt block.. My friend Pete K ran a 383 using a 2 bolt block for years at the track without problems.. He had well over 400 hp.....High rpms are what do a motor the most harm , not the hp....WW

Benjikittens

yeah that where i shooting for is around 400 to 500 and m+:_0

Benjikittens

droped my keyborad but yeah i like to do a 383 but everyone been tell me it wound work in the 2 bolt. would i use the same kit as a 4 bolt of do they make 2 bolt 383 kits and if so where can i find one

vetteoz

As you have already been told by others

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1584857983-post11.html

I really think you are way out of your depth on this 500 Hp build , given the sort of questions you are asking.

FWIW.
The number of bolts holding the crank in to the block has no bearing on the stroker kit you choose to use

also as you have already been told ,any major auto parts supplier
Summit for instance
See
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ing%20assembly

Bear in mind ,this only gets you some of the required parts , there is a lot more $$ in getting a complete running engine together

Benjikittens

well i just making sure i have all the info i need to do this build i would rather ask a bunch question instead of messing up

MrWillys

I've always run 4 bolt blocks in all my toys with forged cranks. Honestly, I think a studded 2 bolt would be really close in strength without all the added cost of machine work. Of course it makes me feel good I've got the 010 casting with a new 1053 crank in my 5200 RPM peak HP engine (kind of a waste really). Put the money into a complete roller valvetrain.

1991Z07

Exactly what my machinist did with my 355 in the car now...

It was going to need an align-bore anyway...just part of the "blueprinting" process.

Benjikittens

ok then for a 2 bolt main then if i shoot any where from 350hp to 500hp should i really need my bolt machine for a 4 bolt of should it hold up. i wantin to get it bored and put the stroker kit in it as well as a modded lt intake on different set of head(undecided on what heads yet) along with some other small parts what prediction would you say my hp would be. i expecting around like 330 or so but i may be way off. as for headers im not sure where to keep the stock ones or a set of long tube

Benjikittens

i was looking over the kit and i was wondering if the h-beam rods would be need for this build or would the i beam hold up

383vett

I've got I beam rods shifting at 6700. You do not need the weight of H beam rods for your application.

Benjikittens

ok thats good cause that was double the price of this build