C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

No pulse at the Injectors.HELP

Old 09-13-2013, 06:49 PM
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wagontrainer
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Default No pulse at the Injectors.HELP

I am still trying to get the 1988 corvette TPI in my 1966 Nova running.Got the new TPI ECM Chip installed but still will not run.Ran the test with the Noid Light and there is no pulse.At a loss.Any help would be appreciated.Tried 2 different Distributors(TPI LARGE Cap)Still nothing.Have good fire at the plugs but not to the injectors.
Old 09-13-2013, 07:36 PM
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MrWillys
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The most common mistake made in a conversion is not connecting the pnk/blk wire to a Hot While Cranking source. I recommend the coil circuit. If you have this correct, are you sure you're running a no VATS chip?
Old 09-14-2013, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
The most common mistake made in a conversion is not connecting the pnk/blk wire to a Hot While Cranking source. I recommend the coil circuit. If you have this correct, are you sure you're running a no VATS chip?
Would that be the wire at the Battery terminal on Distributor if so it is?At first it was not(my mistake)
Just got a new Chip from TPIS Specialties Thursday and VATS was removed i hope.Have someone coming over next week with a Scanner so i hope we can find something.

Last edited by wagontrainer; 09-14-2013 at 10:33 AM.
Old 09-14-2013, 10:43 AM
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There's only two wires that power the ECM. There's an orange wire that must be hot at all times, and the pnk/blk that's key on and hot while cranking. As long as you have those hooked up correctly, and VATS programmed out of the chip it should pulse the injectors. The ECM must see an ignition pulse prior to allowing injectors to fire, so if you have a fault there it could cause this condition. If you tried different distributors that is most likely eliminated.
If TPiS provided your chip most likely you should be good to go.
Old 09-14-2013, 10:31 PM
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wagontrainer
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
There's only two wires that power the ECM. There's an orange wire that must be hot at all times, and the pnk/blk that's key on and hot while cranking. As long as you have those hooked up correctly, and VATS programmed out of the chip it should pulse the injectors. The ECM must see an ignition pulse prior to allowing injectors to fire, so if you have a fault there it could cause this condition. If you tried different distributors that is most likely eliminated.
If TPiS provided your chip most likely you should be good to go.
Will check my wiring Monday.I know for sure 1 is directly to the Battery(hot all the time),but the other that said to be hooked to a switched circuit is probably only hot when switched on not during Cranking.You are saying it needs to be hot during cranking?The Harness is also from TPiS.
Old 09-14-2013, 10:55 PM
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Yes, the pnk/blk must be hot while cranking, or it won't pulse the injectors. Very few circuits are hot while cranking. Good luck!
Old 09-15-2013, 09:10 AM
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wagontrainer
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Yes, the pnk/blk must be hot while cranking, or it won't pulse the injectors. Very few circuits are hot while cranking. Good luck!
Took a look at my Harness before work this morning and i am keeping my fingers crossed.As you said there are 2 wires that need to be hooked up correctly.Both of these wires are coming from the 4 Fuse panel on the Harness.I do have the 1(orange) that needs to be connected to the Battery hot,"BUT" the other(pink)i have connected to a Switched Circuit that is Hot when on,but "NOT" hot during cranking.Tomorrow i will give it a try.If this is my problem i can't thank you enough.
P.S Where would you suggest i hook this up to?I believe all my Start On switch circuits are used right now.Would it be pulling too much current if i connected both the Distributor and the Computor wire(pink)to the same outlet at the bulk head connector?Could i somehow hook up a relay and run both from there?

Last edited by wagontrainer; 09-15-2013 at 09:18 AM.
Old 09-15-2013, 09:24 AM
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Mine's been connected into my coil circuit for over 10 years. The orange wire is where the power comes from, and the pnk/blk just says it time to join the parade.
Old 09-15-2013, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Mine's been connected into my coil circuit for over 10 years. The orange wire is where the power comes from, and the pnk/blk just says it time to join the parade.
I believe that is where the Distributor is hooked up on mine.I will try it there also.Sounds good,will keep you informed,and thanks again,Mark
Old 09-16-2013, 02:23 AM
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You need two inputs for the injectors to pulse.

One is from the VATS module, which supplies a 30 Hz square wave. If you don't have a VATS system, there are aftermarket modules you can buy to simulate this signal.

The ECM also requires DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses). These come from the ignition module in the distributor and they tell the ECM that the engine is rotating (either cranking or running). The ECM uses the DRPs to synchronize the injector pulses to the rotation of the engine.

One other aspect of DRPs is that the ECM turns on the fuel pump when it sees DRPs. That's to prevent the fuel pump from running if the ignition is turned on but the engine is not started.

Last edited by Cliff Harris; 09-18-2013 at 01:56 AM. Reason: Added missing letter to word.
Old 09-16-2013, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
You need two inputs for the injectors to pulse.

One is from the VATS module, which supplies a 30 Hz square wave. If you don't have a VATS system, there are aftermarket modules you can buy to simulate this signal.

The ECM also requires DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses). These come from the ignition module in the distributor and the tell the ECM that the engine is rotating (either cranking or running). The ECM uses the DRPs to synchronize the injector pulses to the rotation of the engine.

One other aspect of DRPs is that the ECM turns on the fuel pump when it sees DRPs. That's to prevent the fuel pump from running if the ignition is turned on but the engine is not started.
If VATS has been programmed out no additional devices are required. There's tens of thousands of conversions out there without this provision. The aftermarket module is only needed if the memcal has not been reprogrammed.
Old 09-16-2013, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
If VATS has been programmed out no additional devices are required. There's tens of thousands of conversions out there without this provision. The aftermarket module is only needed if the memcal has not been reprogrammed.
MrWillys i did as you suggested and checked my wiring and you were right.Had it hooked to a Switch ON power/No power while starting.Got it running but it ran terrible.Finally got it to idle fair and set the timing at 10 degrees.Ran like a plug was fouled so i checked the plugs and a couple had a little carbon on them.Cleaned them and put them back in,but ran the same.A friend of mine said to clean the MAF with some Brake Cleaner and a little compressed air.Also said to check the Fuel pressure and try some Fuel injection cleaner.Do you have any suggestions?I was hoping for a good smooth running engine.
Old 09-17-2013, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by wagontrainer
Finally got it to idle fair and set the timing at 10 degrees.

A friend of mine said to clean the MAF with some Brake Cleaner and a little compressed air.

Also said to check the Fuel pressure and try some Fuel injection cleaner.
It should run on 6 so 10 is out of spec. If it must run on 10, it makes me wonder if you are getting 10. IOW, are you sure the timing is right? Did you take the tan wire out when setting? Are you sure the timing mark is not moving on you because the balancer is bad? Just checking. Is it advancing when the tan wire is plugged back in?

Why use brake cleaner? I wouldn't. I would use MAF cleaner. Also I am not sure about the compressed air thing. I would spray MAF cleaner and go with that since it is designed for it. I would be too afraid of using too much pressure and breaking the wire. Try this, remove the harness to the MAF and see if it runs better.

I'd check fuel pressure and make sure that after shutdown, it holds the pressure for a while. Also make sure that the filters are not clogged. You might have to take out the tank pump to see if the sock is clogged.

Also, I would check all the hoses for air leaks. How are the plug wires? Have you misted water AROUND them in a dark garage to check for plug wire leaks?

PS, I would forget the injection cleaner. IF you really think the injectors are bad, I would just toss them and get Bosch III injectors from FIC and be done with it. In fact, I would do it since your stock Multec injectors are not the greatest.
Old 09-17-2013, 10:18 AM
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^What he said, paying close attention to a leak down test on the injectors. Is the cam stock?
Old 09-17-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
^What he said, paying close attention to a leak down test on the injectors. Is the cam stock?
I'd swing both ways if it were me. I'd like to know if the injectors are bad but I don't want to spend the extra money to find out. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
Old 09-17-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
^What he said, paying close attention to a leak down test on the injectors. Is the cam stock?
Just picked a pressure test Gauge from Parts Store.The Cam is Stock as far as i know.
Old 09-17-2013, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I'd swing both ways if it were me. I'd like to know if the injectors are bad but I don't want to spend the extra money to find out. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
I am at the point of no return right now.The purchasing of New Injectors is not the problem.If i have to i will.The problem for me now it the time to get it done.Plan on going to ''Cruisin The Coast'' ïn Mississippi October 6th
Will be there in the Nova or the Wifes Altima one way or the other.
About to do the Pressure Test shortly will let you know how it does.Thanks for the info. Mark
Old 09-17-2013, 04:59 PM
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Just relax and take it one step at a time. I've always said, the real work doesn't start until you turn the key. Take your time and you will get what you want. Is your timing at 6 degrees? Call me at 775-530-5892 if you'd like to discuss.
Old 09-18-2013, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWillys
Just relax and take it one step at a time. I've always said, the real work doesn't start until you turn the key. Take your time and you will get what you want. Is your timing at 6 degrees? Call me at 775-530-5892 if you'd like to discuss.
I will try calling you sometimes today. Thanks Mark

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