Power steering question
10-12-2013, 04:19 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Power steering question
Hey all. My buddy has an 85 Corvette that has started to make a grinding noise after the car has warmed. It does not squeal when cold or have any hard steering problems but after driving for 20 or so minuets it makes a grinding noise that worsens when the steering wheel is turned. We are getting ready to swap out the power steering pump but thought I would check here first. Thank you
10-12-2013, 08:38 PM
#2
yeah, and plan on swapping out the RACK as well.......
At that age, the rack is well worn. When a "vane" type pump fails the tiny bits of the impeller/rollers get sent all thru the system and PS systems did NOT get filters until later yrs. So, your rack is full of debris and I can ASSURE you that it will get trash in the valve body, destroy the seals and start leaking everywhere. Soon if not now.
Whenever a hyd pump self destructs you MUST take the system apart and sterilize EVERYTHING after the pump...pretty much everything period. If you take the reservoir off and look in the bottom, (note the pick-up is off the bottom) you will find some goo or junk down there...that's a bad sign. It means call your favorite parts house and order a rack, exchange. New tie rod ends, then an alignment and you can go another 30 yrs without a problem.
One LAST chance......
Buy a bottle of LUCAS Power Steering Rack & Pinion Conditioner and Stop leak and TRY that. This is the ONLY cure in a can that I have EVER seen that actually works. That stuff has saved many people from doing an expensive repair or at least delayed it until a better time. Its a very common car drug in the Corvette world...cause it works! $10 a pint but it works.
Simple test before spending.......
turkey baster to get a sample off the bottom of the res..,.drain on white cloth to look for ground particles.
Look for bubbles in the res when its running. Turn the wheel and see if that makes bubbles...
foam or bubbles is a sign of a dying pump. Cold oil is thicker. As it heats it thins and parts that are damaged will start to grind. The noise is the hyd system, not the pump. A hyd pump will do that for about 10 seconds before its gone forever. The growning or grinding is cavitation, bubbles or air in the oil THAT comes from the pump and nowhere else.
As I said before, the fear is that IF the pump is coming apart it has circulated trash thru the system and the rack is fragile to ANY debris...
The pump swap is challenging, have the tools and some help and a LOT of patience. The rack is not too bad IF you follow the FSM directions. I wouldn't do either without a FSM....that's only $100. No point in owning a 30 yr old car without one.
At that age, the rack is well worn. When a "vane" type pump fails the tiny bits of the impeller/rollers get sent all thru the system and PS systems did NOT get filters until later yrs. So, your rack is full of debris and I can ASSURE you that it will get trash in the valve body, destroy the seals and start leaking everywhere. Soon if not now.
Whenever a hyd pump self destructs you MUST take the system apart and sterilize EVERYTHING after the pump...pretty much everything period. If you take the reservoir off and look in the bottom, (note the pick-up is off the bottom) you will find some goo or junk down there...that's a bad sign. It means call your favorite parts house and order a rack, exchange. New tie rod ends, then an alignment and you can go another 30 yrs without a problem.
One LAST chance......
Buy a bottle of LUCAS Power Steering Rack & Pinion Conditioner and Stop leak and TRY that. This is the ONLY cure in a can that I have EVER seen that actually works. That stuff has saved many people from doing an expensive repair or at least delayed it until a better time. Its a very common car drug in the Corvette world...cause it works! $10 a pint but it works.
Simple test before spending.......
turkey baster to get a sample off the bottom of the res..,.drain on white cloth to look for ground particles.
Look for bubbles in the res when its running. Turn the wheel and see if that makes bubbles...
foam or bubbles is a sign of a dying pump. Cold oil is thicker. As it heats it thins and parts that are damaged will start to grind. The noise is the hyd system, not the pump. A hyd pump will do that for about 10 seconds before its gone forever. The growning or grinding is cavitation, bubbles or air in the oil THAT comes from the pump and nowhere else.
As I said before, the fear is that IF the pump is coming apart it has circulated trash thru the system and the rack is fragile to ANY debris...
The pump swap is challenging, have the tools and some help and a LOT of patience. The rack is not too bad IF you follow the FSM directions. I wouldn't do either without a FSM....that's only $100. No point in owning a 30 yr old car without one.
Last edited by leesvet; 10-12-2013 at 08:46 PM.
10-12-2013, 10:05 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanx for the response and advice. I pulled the pump, there doesn't seem to be any metal flakes in the reservoir. We are going to try and just replace the pump and see how the rack holds up. Can I run just that Lucas conditioner or do I need conventional power steering fluid as well.
10-13-2013, 09:33 AM
#4
There was no cores sl I couldn't get a rebuilt pump. My pump was leaking out the back cover. O rings can be found at industrial supply houses. Found pump info on You Tube. My pump had no scoring so I finally got the back cover seal fixed. Also had a leak in the high pressure hose. It caused a similar sound but it had foamed fluid causing the squal. If the steerings not hard look for air getting in. Definetly do the fluid flush.
JS
JS