Body filler for an 85
10-29-2013, 01:14 PM
#1
Body filler for an 85
The PO drilled small holes all around the car about 12 of them that are 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. What is the best body filler I can get to fill em in and sand it smooth? Theres also a split place beside the right tailpipes about 2 to 3 inches long.Its just split from the edge of the fiberglass to the inside.If you bend them together they line up could I use the filler to repair that
?
?
10-29-2013, 07:39 PM
#2
Race Director
I do not think that I would use a filler only to fill the holes. The 1/4" ones ...maybe...but that is pushing it....and I would have to do a "trick" with fiberglass mat in order to do it. The 1/2' holes I would have to laminate...if I were doing it "right"...and having to guarantee it.
I would use WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin and fiberglass mat. When that was applied correctly over a properly prepped surface and cured...I would then grind it down and then apply Vette Panel Adhesive over the laminated areas.
Is your rear bumper and aftermarket fiberglass bumper or is it a factory urethane????
DUB
I would use WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin and fiberglass mat. When that was applied correctly over a properly prepped surface and cured...I would then grind it down and then apply Vette Panel Adhesive over the laminated areas.
Is your rear bumper and aftermarket fiberglass bumper or is it a factory urethane????
DUB
10-29-2013, 09:47 PM
#4
Drifting
DUB is right on here. I had a hole in my hood when i bought it, a trailer hitch backed
over it i think. That stuff works. Urethane bumper repair kit, mixes and sticks like epoxy
but stays flexy. Mine needed 2 kits.
over it i think. That stuff works. Urethane bumper repair kit, mixes and sticks like epoxy
but stays flexy. Mine needed 2 kits.
10-30-2013, 07:29 PM
#6
Race Director
Original urethane requires a special adhesive to repair...along with specific prepping procedures. Make sure you DO NOT wipe any exposed raw urethane with a solvent. I use water based cleaners. Solvents can attack the urethane and make it swell and possible impair the specific adhesive from bonding. I do not even wipe the raw bumper down with the wax and grease remover I use on primer and paint. I use a water based product...and mentioned above.
Though I defend your right to "FREEDOM OF SPEECH"....this also gives me the FREEDOM to comment back.
I disagree with your comment.
1.) As for..."just fill them" is NOT how they should be filled. If you feel that is the way to do it...( IN MY OPINION)... YOU just "violated" your car. BECAUSE I have repaired so many repairs done the EXACT WAY you described...and I can see where the holes are located. 1/2" holes are quite large...and should be laminated for the long term best result.
I take GREAT offense in this broad comment. Everybody who does Corvette repair DOES NOT ALWAYS "violate" people.
I NEVER "violate" a customer in any way when I do repairs for them. THAT JUST DOES NOT HAPPEN!!! NEVER HAVE---NEVER WILL.
Just to set the "record" straight...because if I did not comment...I would be accepting it...which I do not do at all.
DUB
I disagree with your comment.
1.) As for..."just fill them" is NOT how they should be filled. If you feel that is the way to do it...( IN MY OPINION)... YOU just "violated" your car. BECAUSE I have repaired so many repairs done the EXACT WAY you described...and I can see where the holes are located. 1/2" holes are quite large...and should be laminated for the long term best result.
I NEVER "violate" a customer in any way when I do repairs for them. THAT JUST DOES NOT HAPPEN!!! NEVER HAVE---NEVER WILL.
Just to set the "record" straight...because if I did not comment...I would be accepting it...which I do not do at all.
DUB
10-31-2013, 11:03 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
From my experiences working on SMC panels I would not utilize West Systems epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth on any repairs. You are dealing with 2 completely different animals on these technologies. There are (and have been for a while now) repair compounds out there specifically designed for use with the modern SMC panels found on these cars. 3M can hook you up with all you need. Shoot me a PM and I will outline how we would perform said repair. Just my .02
10-31-2013, 09:47 PM
#10
Race Director
AS for the WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin. I personally/professionally NEVER had any issue with delamination. Actually when parts have been laminated in tests. And I try to break them...the laminated area will not delaminate, shear off or any problem that gives me any concern. I have been using it for years...which in actuality does not mean squat...because some may do a lamination or prep different than I...which can cause for a result that might be less favorable.
But...to each his/her own.
DUB
10-31-2013, 09:56 PM
#11
Pro
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11-01-2013, 10:56 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
To be frank in reading Bridges77 response that in no way mentioned DUB I was a little taken aback by DUB's response. I don't have a side here but I can say that over the years the body shop guys and the custom paint shops have done a terrific job of ruining their credibility. Much like the racing engine shops of old that did the same to their reputations, many people have been gouged, had corners cut, and received outcomes much less than promised...
With that said I do very good, quality work utilizing only the finest repair materials available and always follow the P Sheet to the letter. I'm sure DUB does as well but the average consumer has never experienced this....so Bridfes77 comment is one that I have come to expect to hear since when most people speak from experience....this industry has given a lot of bad experiences. Just my .02
With that said I do very good, quality work utilizing only the finest repair materials available and always follow the P Sheet to the letter. I'm sure DUB does as well but the average consumer has never experienced this....so Bridfes77 comment is one that I have come to expect to hear since when most people speak from experience....this industry has given a lot of bad experiences. Just my .02
11-01-2013, 08:18 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Dumb comment that was in no way helpful to the OP. I have found similar repairs that were done to my 85. Slapping some bondo on and calling it good only creates bigger problems to fix right. DUB was right on!
11-02-2013, 04:38 PM
#16
Drifting
11-02-2013, 06:15 PM
#17
Race Director
If I were to do it this way...I would lay some of the fibertech down on my mixing board after it has been mixed and catalyzed...then I would lay a 'filleted" piece of the fiberglass mat on top of it. I would then apply some more of the fibertech on top of this ...working it into the fiberglass mat. The I would peel it off the mixing board with the edge of my spreader and apply it on the body and work in down well onto the surface.
Just make sure you have prepped the holes so the bevel/taper inwards. If you are concerned about the material falling into the hole. Stop at one application and let it harden...then prep it again and this way you now have a solid surface to perform your "magic"....without the fear of everything falling into the hole.
To be frank in reading Bridges77 response that in no way mentioned DUB I was a little taken aback by DUB's response. I don't have a side here but I can say that over the years the body shop guys and the custom paint shops have done a terrific job of ruining their credibility. Much like the racing engine shops of old that did the same to their reputations, many people have been gouged, had corners cut, and received outcomes much less than promised...
With that said I do very good, quality work utilizing only the finest repair materials available and always follow the P Sheet to the letter. I'm sure DUB does as well but the average consumer has never experienced this....so Bridfes77 comment is one that I have come to expect to hear since when most people speak from experience....this industry has given a lot of bad experiences. Just my .02
With that said I do very good, quality work utilizing only the finest repair materials available and always follow the P Sheet to the letter. I'm sure DUB does as well but the average consumer has never experienced this....so Bridfes77 comment is one that I have come to expect to hear since when most people speak from experience....this industry has given a lot of bad experiences. Just my .02
I replied the way I did due to so many people HAVE BEEN ripped off, hood-winked and whatever when body and paint work have been paid for...and then in the future it all falls apart and they do not get good service. If "Bridges77" got ripped off...I really HATE to hear about that. It really does SUCK! But his comment using "violate" did hit a nerve...and I am only defending myself...regardless if it was directly intended for me. I am defending my profession. BECAUSE if I did not reply...just being silent...then many of those people who actually know me and might have read this post...knowing that I was involved in it in some way...would wonder why I did not comment ...because they actually KNOW ME...and know how I fell about what I do.
And trust me...I was no where near "flipping out". Not even close. But some people need to understand that ALL body and paint guys are NOT BAD. And "Deakins" hit the "nail on the head"....in a round about way....but I read it in a good way. People who are artistically talented (custom painters for example) are NOT cut from the same cloth as some others. And yes...I KNOW I am different...I will admit it all day long. I am really "whacked in the head" when it comes to doing body and paint work where my attention to detail is PAST the obsessive side. So when a "generalized" comment is made in what I do...right behind my post...I react as I feel I need to.
DUB
11-02-2013, 08:10 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
You can use a thin layer of fiberglass mat with this product to aid in holding it together so it will not fall into the 1/2" hole. I would not use the 1 1/2 mat by itself...I would "filet" it so the product you are going to use will easily saturate it...thus reducing the chance of air bubbles.
If I were to do it this way...I would lay some of the fibertech down on my mixing board after it has been mixed and catalyzed...then I would lay a 'filleted" piece of the fiberglass mat on top of it. I would then apply some more of the fibertech on top of this ...working it into the fiberglass mat. The I would peel it off the mixing board with the edge of my spreader and apply it on the body and work in down well onto the surface.
Just make sure you have prepped the holes so the bevel/taper inwards. If you are concerned about the material falling into the hole. Stop at one application and let it harden...then prep it again and this way you now have a solid surface to perform your "magic"....without the fear of everything falling into the hole.
DUB
If I were to do it this way...I would lay some of the fibertech down on my mixing board after it has been mixed and catalyzed...then I would lay a 'filleted" piece of the fiberglass mat on top of it. I would then apply some more of the fibertech on top of this ...working it into the fiberglass mat. The I would peel it off the mixing board with the edge of my spreader and apply it on the body and work in down well onto the surface.
Just make sure you have prepped the holes so the bevel/taper inwards. If you are concerned about the material falling into the hole. Stop at one application and let it harden...then prep it again and this way you now have a solid surface to perform your "magic"....without the fear of everything falling into the hole.
DUB
11-03-2013, 09:17 AM
#20
Drifting