jispr

Several weeks ago cruising along, car dies. At the side of the road it slowly turns over and starts only to die 50 feet later. Turns over slower, I notice only have 9 volts but it does start and gets me 1/2 mile home. Charged overnight (battery is 1 year old) and 3 days later still holding 12.5 volts BUT the starter will not engage, not a sound.
Followed the FSM troubleshoot etc, checked all fuses, the fuse panel and the 2 sets at the battery, replaced start relay under dash, checked
neutral safety switch. When I turn the key, all looks fine on dash, I hear my amp turn off etc but no power to solenoid. I've got the steering column down and will replace the ign sw. as it's just as easy as to check. Any ideas?? Don't think it's the ccm as the interior lights come on/go off, the key reminder is working. That leaves the ign sw unless someone has better ideas. I did try both keys and both fobs.

I HATE electrical woes!!

joe paco

what year? the FSM says, first step, is to check for 12v at the starter solenoid purple wire, ignition switch in START. "no pwr to solenoid" means you checked the purple wire? you work back from there. Ign switch is last thing to check.
forgot to mention VATS, but if key is not read I think the security light stays on. will have to verify that.

jtc44

If your car died on the side of the road and you only had 9 volts you have moor than one problem. Do you have a DMM if so check battery voltage when trying to crank the eng. If you do not have a DMM and test lite well good luck! You MAY have a bad battery or a charging system problem. Can you put in a known good battery? And what do the cables look like?
Well if you do have a DMM post that and I will try to help with a voltage drop test
It is the only way to go on a no start like this

jispr

Started with the purple wire and worked down the list according to the FSM. Battery is fully charged and ther's 12 volts at the started. I tried a different battery. The starter solenoid is not getting power from the switch or inbetween somewhere. If the ign sw doesn't fix it, I'm going to supply power to the solenoid from the battery cable via a push button switch. If it cranks, fires and runs I'm done. Push button start!

It's a stock 1993 coupe.

GKK

Bad Starter?...

Also, what is the Voltage at the Alternator?

joe paco

sorry about my post, guy. brain was not in gear. if you were already at the relay, it's almost certain you had verified the purple, but, some people overlook it. or -forget to put key in the START mode.

following the FSM, 8-30 or so, if you jumped the two wires on the relay, #1 and #4, switch in start, the engine should crank. if it does it leads to the VATS.

if it does not, it leads to where you are now, ignition switch.

joe

pcolt94

This post has some merit. Need to keep an open mind if the car died while driving. The data may not be correct and you could go off in a wrong direction. What was the volt meter on the dash indicating before it died, and after it died. Was the 9 volts at cranking, or just sitting there while doing nothing.


You are all over the map. The present problem is no crank. have you tried another key, or cleaned the pellet off in your current key. VATS takes about 3 minutes to reset.

If you have no voltage on the input of the solenoid, did you measure the voltage as you turned the key to start?

You can put 12 volts to the input of the solenoid and see if the engine cranks. If it does, then you can eliminate the starter.

I would be real careful jumping wires out as a mistake can put you in a worse position than now, as you said electronics is not your thing.

The FSM is great, but some of the things they tell you to do in some of the flow charts even makes me think twice, and electronics is my major field.

Just on a chance in left field and on principal, have you checked for any codes in module 1 for a pass key failure? I would also disconnect the battery for a minute so the CCM can reset. It's just a thought to try something no-destructive.

hooked073

you need 12 volts on the large term at the starter. You also need 12 on the small term on the starter when the key is turned to crank. Have someone turn the key to crank while you test voltage at the s term (small term) on the starter. If you have 12 volts there and at the large term it is starter. I also agree that you have other problems possible alt causing it to die going down the road

jispr

Thanks for all the replies!! There is NO voltage to the solenoid in "start"
Havn't tried jumping the start relay. It's cold here today. I don't like to work in the cold. This problem has got me eyeballing a yellow c6.
Maybe try later today. I will get back to you guys