mako41

Is the A/C compressor clutch replaceable without replacing the entire A/C compressor? '89 C4 L98 w/electronic climate control.

If this is possible can it be done while the compressor is still mounted in the car and still charged w/freon? Any special tools needed to do this? Where might I get a quality part, I would prefer OEM AC Delco if that's possible. Will I need an entire Compressor assembly w/clutch or not??

Thanks from any and all A/C experts out there who have done this or know how to tackle this job!

70ZZ3 96LT4

My 1985 I believe has the same compressor. I have the service manual for my 85 and without looking specifically for this procedure I believe it can be done on the car and will have no effect on the R12 if that is what you are still using.

gerardvg

The 88-91 uses a different compressor compared to 84-87.
Yes the a/c clutch can be replaced on the car.
You will need to undo the retaining bolt and circlip pliers to remove the circlips. Best research how to do it, someone with an 88-91 shop manual may be able to post the correct steps.


http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...utch-1988.html


http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-SEASONS-47571-A-C-Compressor-Clutch-/221413718406?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item338d493986&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SANTECH-MT0985-A-C-Compressor-Clutch-Installation-Kit-/351011740078?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item51b9ee19ae&vxp=mtr

mako41

Thanks for the replies some very helpful info.

The cheapest replacement AC Delco compressor clutch I found was on Amazon;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/han...t-bbf_1_glance

Found another one here at a good price;

http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/que...dth_class=full

gerardvg....... Is the install kit necessary? I can't find an AC Delco equivalent? Can I use those parts off the old OEM compressor clutch?

larryinalabama

If you don't have to have Delco..............

http://www.rockauto.com/

mako41

What are you trying to say?? Go with a cheaper aftermarket part??

rockauto is not price competitive on this A/C compressor clutch; see some of the links posted above!

SunCr

The Clutch Assembly usually outlasts the Compressor on this year so you may wish to verify it needs one. More often than not, the Shaft Seal wears out and with that, the gas is gone. You can verify the condition by looking for compressor oil on the hood above the Compressor. The Seal is serviceable, but you'll need to discharge and remove the Compressor. Unfortunately, if it's leaked for any length of time, it can wear a groove into the shaft at which point it needs a new Compressor. Other causes that lead to mis-diagnosis are: Seized compressor - make sure you can turn the outer hub, by hand, with minimal resistance; Broken Blower Module which provides the Clutch Ground; and an Open in the Low or High Pressure Switches.

If the Assembly needs to be replaced, you can do it on the car and the only difference between the aftermarket and the OEM part is the design of the Face Plate. Go for whatever look you want.

To R&R the Assembly, remove the belt and then grab the Outer Hub with a Strap Wrench or Oil Filter Pliers. Use a 10 mm socket on the Hub Bolt. Put your hand under the Hub as it's shimmed with one or more 1/4 inch washers that will fall out when you pry off the Hub. You're not going to re-use them, but it's hell looking for something that's fallen into the frame. Coil and Pulley are held on with Snap Rings. Assembly is the reverse. Be sure the Snap Rings are seated or it will fall apart the minute you start it and ruin it. Do buy the Installation Kit (aftermarket usually includes it) which includes new Snap Rings and Shims. You will have to Shim the Outer Hub until there is a clearance of .020 inch between it and the Pulley. Works best to put the bolt through the Hub and then your best guess for Shim size on the bolt and then thread the bolt to the Shaft. Count on doing it more than once. If the clearance it's too small, the parts will rub; too large, it will engage with a bang (if it engages at all). Don't go ape on the Hub Bolt or you will crush the Shim(s). Spec is 10 ft/lbs.

mako41

Thanks for the incite.... very much appreciated!

When you say make sure you can turn the outer hub by hand..... you mean the outer pulley that that serpentine belt rides on. Right? When the clutch is engaged this pulley locks w/the clutch hub assembly engaging the compressor. Or am I misunderstanding what you mean?? The outer pulley spins with the serp. belt as the car idles, no problem. Do I need to remove the belt and try to turn the outer pulley by hand??

What leads me to believe the clutch is bad is that when it engages I hear a screeching noise and a burning smell emanates from the clutch. Does that mean my compressor is seized? Or do I need to replace a failed compressor clutch?? Not really sure what my exact issue is?

Thanks for your response.

SunCr

Outer Hub or Face Plate is bolted to the Shaft and magnetically engages the Pulley when the coil is grounded. Noise, smoke and smell is almost always a compressor that's about to let go, usually due to lack of lube. Do check for compressor oil on the hood above the compressor since the shaft seal is the most common place for these units to toss oil and gas. A grenaded compressor will put shrapnel into the system that's very difficult to remove. In fact, it probably already has some in it and you will need to make sure it's flushed (most compressor warranties require that you do so) or it can fail again. If you want to save some $'s, you could rebuild it yourself - though it pays to have a Shop leak test the Evaporator Coil to make sure it doesn't need one of those too. At best, you need a Compressor, Accumulator, Orifice and Seals (o-rings - you can buy a kit) - though I'd also consider a Condenser as they are almost impossible to Flush. You will need to remove lines and spray Brake Parts Cleaner through them until it runs clear. Add 4 ounces of oil to a new compressor (drain whatever is in it first) and another 4 ounces in a new Accumulator. Then you can go to a Shop and have it charged up. Just don't let it sit for too long after you rebuild it as the moisture that will be in it can ruin the lube and Accumulator. OEM parts will be about $600 to $800, but you will save a similar amount on Labor. You will also need to decide on whether or not you want to stick with R12 (I would) or switch to R134. Each requires a specific lube.

mako41

Thanks for the reply Sun...... I have decided to replace my compressor. The GM part # 10268616 which cross references to an AC-Delco 15-20108 is made for 134a refrigerant, not R-12 which I'm going to stay with, as the system was designed to run it. I'm sure that means I should drain out the PAG?? type oil this compressor was shipped with and refill w/4oz of petroleum based R-12 compatible lubricant. Is that correct? The plate on the new compressor says Denso 134a ND oil8, the old compressor plate said R12 Denso oil8. I'm sure they are not the same. Can I drain the oil from the new compressor by tilting it over a measuring device and letting it drain/ How long should I do this? Can I pour the new R-12 type oil directly into this new compressor? Will a new AC Delco compressor with a 134a plate work well with R 12 and its specific oil type? I'm not sure you can get The old type R-12 compressor anymore.

SunCr

There is no difference with the internals of the NIPPO 10PA20C compressor - the issue you could face is with the Manifold which may be designed for sealing washers instead of o-rings. If so, you'll need a new Main Hose Assembly and I don't know of any for the '89 that aren't designed for 0-rings. Anyway, look at the Manifold. If there's no recess for the Hose Assembly, it takes Sealing Washers; o-rings will not work and it'll leak. You can use your old Manifold - try www.ackits.com for the gasket or maybe a NAPA warehouse can order you one.

Do drain the PAG oil. Fill with 4 ozs of Mineral Oil and turn the shaft a dozen or so times in one direction, then the other. Drain and repeat as many times as you like. Leave 4 ozs in it. Put 4 ozs in a new Accumulator. Flush lines with Brake Parts Cleaner until they run clear. Check the orifice for debris or replace it. Pull a vacuum and recharge.

mako41

Ok so the only difference between the old compressor with the R-12 plate info and the new compressor with it's 134A plate info is nothing but the plate..... Thanks for that info, was concerned about it.

Yes I will have to reuse my old manifold and bolt that to the top of the new compressor as the manifold that shipped w/ the new compressor will not seal correctly with my original OEM main hose assembly, just as you predicted. I'm trying to locate a new o-ring seal for this manifold to main hose connection. If I'm unsuccessful can I reused the old o-ring seal lubed w/some R-12 oil? It appears to be in good shape.

Do you know of anyone who could do a quality rebuild of my OEM R12 compressor? I would prefer to send them my actual unit to be rebuilt and sent back to me, not a core swap.