Deepa

So this has happened two out of the last five times I've changed my oil. Once was before I switched to a 383, and one was last night.

When It happened the first time, I was draining the oil before a motor swap so I left it off and put it on the new block with red loctite. It worked for a few changes until last night.

One thing I noticed is that the snap ring is no longer above the oil cooler housing, but below it. It was like that when it first came off, so I know I have to fix that next time it comes apart, but I do not see how it would prevent the tube assembly from uncrewing from the block when the filter is removed.

The old quare seal which came in my fel pro oil pan kit was much larger than it was when I installed it, so for the time being, I am using a new oil filter oring which is holding fine. The old wix filter I took off has a thicker diameter oring then the one I used for the time being, so I'll switch that out because i feel that will give me a safer seal.

Am I just over tightening the oil filter? i usually go hand tight as hard as I can then use the filter wrench to do another 1/2 of a turn.

Would re loctiting the adapter tube help or does the engine heat just break down the bond? Am I better off draining the oil while it's hot then do the filter once it has cooled down a little bit? I normally change it when warm to hot so more oil comes out.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

383vett

I've had my oil cooler off and on many times for many motors and change my oil every few races. The cooler has never come loose. Use a 1" or 1 18" socket (can't remember) and tighten the cooler assembly to the block. I haven't looked up the torque, but maybe 20 ft/lbs. Someone will chime in. I never use locktite. When I tighten the filter, I use latex gloves and tighten the filter as much as I can with my hands. I use a wrench only to remove, not tighten. It works for me.

Deepa

i'll give your method a shot next time....I think I might have over tightened it.

Thanks,

Mike